HK Trucking

T Bone, I see in your info that your 59 Mack is listed as a B61. This would indicate that the truck was originally equipped with a naturally aspirated Thermodyne engine. If it was originally equipped with a turbocharged Thermodyne it would be a B613.

Someone apparently dropped a turbo motor in there at some point. It could be a ENDT673A, ENDT673B, ENDT673C, a END711 with the factory retrofit turbo conversion, or a ENDT 675 Maxidyne. The only way to tell for sure is to read the engine model # stamped in the block just in front of the inj. pump, on the surface just behind the timing case cover.

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The nose on that thing reminds me of a V*lv*.

Nice pics Tom! That 2nd one is funny!

April Fools!!!!!!!!!!

And I'll bet the truck probably hasn't been greased since the last time that filter was changed!!!!!!

Vee out the crack, weld it up, and grind it off smooth so it's not noticeable.

A crack in the frame if discovered by a DOT inspector is instant O.O.S.

Thanks Rob!

Actually, I was gonna call you. The boss wants you to make an offer on that lathe. Sounds like he wants it outta there.

Other than that, nothing much going on except the usual!

I'm still here!!!!!!!

Been workin' a lot and hangin' out over at FB!!!

The Mountain Dew tank is almost empty, gonna have to get another tank trailer load and fill 'er back up!!!!!

I seen a homade "jig" for drilling those broken studs out of Dayton hubs. It was a flat steel plate with arms that adjusted and fastened to the remaining/existing studs of the hub. One would then attach their magnetic drill to the plate, and drill out the stud. This worked on all styles of Dayton hubs with various adapters.

Rob

I drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the stud, then use the torch to make a few slices from the hole outward, till I see the threads start to show. Then take a half round ended chisel and drive the pieces of stud toward the middle, and remove them. Then I run a tap thru the hole to clean up the threads.

That method also works good when those 2 threaded into the housing spring box bolts on the right side of a camelback suspension are broke off in the housing.

Yeah, that would be an "easy" one to remove, just heat the hub around the stud , give the end of the stud a couple slams with a hammer to "shock" it, then grab it with a stud remover or a pipe wrench & unscrew it!

When they break off flush or slightly below the surface, then the fun begins!!!

Low hole six speed with a 2 valve E6 300

237.

There's no tip turbine intercooler on it, just a pipe from the turbo to the intake manifold.

Check to make sure the switch on the clutch pedal is not out of adjustment or defective.

That's a common cause of no Jake brake operation.

Yup, it's a TRXL 107 or TRXL1071, and the sticks are bent R model style.

Maybe the seller failed math class.

Uhhhhh, no, I don't believe so.

I've been on there for over a year now.

My daughter Ashley told me I "needed" a Facebook page, and I remember saying "WTF do I need that for".

Then after I got into it, it's fun, found lots of people I knew from the past, & also made a lot of new friends.

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If all the external throttle linkage is free, and the actuator arm is secure on the governor shaft, and the actuator arm is returning all the way against the idle adjustment screw then

the governor or the rack & plungers in the injection pump are partially stuck.

You're lucky it didn't rev out of control and self destruct!!!

That's a combination double check valve/stoplight switch.

I agree Glenn!

It's lucky it didn't take somebody's head off!

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I don't see a water pump shaft or fan.

Worn brake camshafts & camshaft bushings can also prevent auto slack adjusters from working correctly.

Are you sure it's an actual mechanical problem causing the lights to stay on?

The fact that ABS, air pressure, and stop light are all on at the same time and refuse to go out even though the truck is operating satisfactorily suggests to me an electrical problem in the warning light circuit.

I must say I am not familiar with a DAF, so this is just based on my experience with American made trucks.

Yup. That's a spacer.

That engine is roughly a 1972 or newer, because it has the newer style thermostat housing and spin on water filter.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=12154

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=12992

I hope someone can help me. I have a 1999 E7-460 with a T2180, 18 speed double over and Mack 44,000 model S440 rear ends ratio 4.73. I have 400,000 miles on it. I bought the truck several years ago and I changed the rear end oil to 80W90 synthetic when I took it home. (Should I have added an additive?) I may have put on 15,000 miles all gravel roads for the most part.

I used to get an occasional snap/bang when I cornered with a load, not that often. If I cornered slowly I generally could avoid this. I had assumed that maybe it was the load shifting on the 5th wheel platter so never really gave it much thought.

Yesterday I loaded the truck up (tridem grain trailer) and it is now banging more and not on corners but when I shift and step on accelerator a little too hard. I drove it about 15 miles back to my home base and I noticed if I stepped on it, at times I could get a snap out of it. I checked temperatures manually and my rear ends are warm but not hot (seem normal). I have no oil leaks and an air ride suspension. I tried backing with it in the yard with the load and I can see the driveshaft between the two rear ends through my rear window (no sleeper). It looks like it gets to a spot and almost has a deadspot as if there is a tooth missing? I haven't marked it yet but I was going to see if it is consistent with one rotation of the driveshaft and that seems to coincide with the snap I hear.

Which rear end goes first the rear rear?

I have never had a mack rear end apart so I don't even know what they look like or what can go wrong. I assume there is a pinion gear at the end of the driveshaft. Could a cog go out? Will it hurt to run it like this for a day? I have several loads to make before I can get to fixing it. It only makes the banging noise when I shift or step on the accelerator a little hard. I don't notice any problems when I am rolling down the road, no unusual noises.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Kind Regards,

Allan in Saskatchewan, Canada

Sounds to me like the power divider cams & wedges are worn to the point that they are jumping over on a hard pull, or, you've got a mismatch in tire diameters from the front drive axle to the rear drive axle.

This has been discussed quite a few times previously on here, I'll see if I can find some of the threads & I'll post links to them