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Lucky dogg

Puppy Poster
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Everything posted by Lucky dogg

  1. Yea, basically they claim that i should of paid for them to tighten the bolts again (like lugs nuts on a truck) ect. Not responsible. Service just isnt the same anymore. The same dealer did an oil change for me on a unit while there and when i opened the hood to check the oil when i picked it up it was a gallon low not kidding. My trucks do not go there anymore.
  2. Looking for a couple Oilfield Mack pipe bumpers for Rw, R, Rd, model Macks. Less beat up the better. Radiator guard on bumper a plus. Contact Matt @ 3303608055. I am in Ohio. Willing to travel some.
  3. I have a 1983 mack superliner. I have fixed every single thing on this truck. The original hood was perfect but the truck got backed into on a job site and smashed. I put a used hood on it and mack did not put it on properly and it broke down by the driverside bottom. I need a good used hood. No air cleaner cut outs. Square headlight. If it has the grille thatd be amazing bc mine is falling apart. Any help would be great! Help me keep this sweet old ride looking good please! My names matt, im from ohio. Im willing to travel if needed.
  4. Believe it or not I stayed late shortly after this post and traced the fuel line. No issues there. I then removed the tube in the tank which draws fuel and inspected it. I found a piece of plastic wrap stuck inside the tube. Like a part of the clear window in a paycheck envelope or wrapper from a pack of cigarettes (couple of these guys smoke). Put back together. Ran fine since. What are the odds lol
  5. Thats the first thing we will try Monday. Thanks.
  6. I have a 1995 mack DM. It is an oil and gas service rig. The mack motor runs the service unit body also. Recently, I sent the mack to a local mack garage bc it had a loss of power and was stalling. They told me it was the charge air cooler and fixed the air compressor unload valves. This did not solve the issue and they had it over a week. The truck starts and runs. It idles fine, does not have a miss, and the service unit seemed fine also. We drive it down the road and it acts like its out of fuel and stalls. It takes several cranks to get it back started also. As time progresses it is getting worse and worse. I had the crew do the normal (changed fuel filters, air filter, check battery cables, checked fuel tank cap, pick up tube in tank, ect). We need this rig to run bc unlike a normal semi, my 3 guys who work on the rig daily go with out a check when its broke. It is an econodyn. Fuel linkages are manual and does not appear to have a computer on the frame. Please help as we are not sending it back to mack unless it is absolutely necessary. Thanks all!
  7. I have a 1995 mack DM. It is an oil and gas service rig. The mack motor runs the service unit body also. Recently, I sent the mack to a local mack garage bc it had a loss of power and was stalling. They told me it was the charge air cooler and fixed the air compressor unload valves. This did not solve the issue and they had it over a week. The truck starts and runs. It idles fine, does not have a miss, and the service unit seemed fine also. We drive it down the road and it acts like its out of fuel and stalls. It takes several cranks to get it back started also. As time progresses it is getting worse and worse. I had the crew do the normal (changed fuel filters, air filter, check battery cables, checked fuel tank cap, pick up tube in tank, ect). We need this rig to run bc unlike a normal semi, my 3 guys who work on the rig daily go with out a check when its broke. It is an econodyn. Fuel linkages are manual and does not appear to have a computer on the frame. Please help as we are not sending it back to mack unless it is absolutely necessary. Thanks all!
  8. Hello I have a 1995 Mack DM truck. Our service unit for servicing oil and gas wells is mounted to this truck. It went into a local Mack garage recently for loss of power and a stalling problem. They changed the charge air cooler and rebuilt the air compressor. This did not solve our problem. The truck seems to run ok servicing the wells (the rig runs off the mack motor) but the more we try to drive it the more the problem happens and gets worse. The truck used to stall once or twice going down the road, now it stalls 10-15 times within a mile. We have made sure the tank is full of fuel, the fuel filters are all changed, checked the air filter, (the normal checks). This truck has mechanical fuel linkage and the injection pump looks pretty new from just looking at it. I have read on this site other times about the pick up tube having a pin hole or a leaf being in the fuel tank obstructing the tube at times but I am pretty sure that is not it. The fuel cap spring also moves and is clean. I am looking for any suggestions as I have a crew of three guys that rely on this Mack to run for them. If the truck does not run then no one works and does not get a check. Not to mention we are up to our eye balls with work thankfully, now if I could just get the truck to run. Please help if you can! I am not a professional by any means but I try my best. Thanks All!
  9. I have an 07' Mack and 2- 05's. What seems loose to you? (Play in the wheel, is the truck wondering?), I also have a couple 1980 macks and 2- 1998 Rd 688s macks. I can tell you depending on what your used to they all steer a little different (easier to turn the wheel on some trucks then others). In fact, one 1998 steers really easy, the other is a bit stiff to turn but still turns good. Just curious on what exactly concerns you bc I've done a bunch of steering work on all these macks.
  10. Hello all --UPDATE: had my mechanic tank the tires off today. We found a brake drum balancing weight stuck inside the aluminum wheel that the Weld did not hold the weight to the drum. A few local shops said they haven't seen this very frequently at all if any? Problem solved! Thanks for all your help. Seeing your posts helped me to dig deeper!
  11. I agree with TJC, I have two 1998 Mack Rd 688s and have fought problems like what your describing in the past. It's most likely a torque arm or dog bone as my mechanic calls them. I have found over the years only changing one at a time ends up causing me hardship down the road bc the other will need changed. When one wears out I change the other also to ensure the rears are not moving any direction they shouldnt. I'd stick with the torque are deal. If a mechance says there fine then you have a spring issue with pads or trunnion bushings ect. Keep in mind if the torque arm had movement previous this could cause other things to work also. Good luck
  12. UPDATE: After a some what heated arguement at the local rearend Shop this morning I am more and more determined the tire man who changed the tires before the truck went on the road left something in the simulator or something is broken behind the dust cover of the housing. The local rear end Shop refused to take the tires off to check and said the entire rearend is completely blown even though I took them a sample of the gear Oil. They told me the sample doesn't help or mean anything. They told me I should buy the rear suspension. Cut off from the guys buddy and scrap the whole rearend. What a valuable lesson I learned today. Thanks all!
  13. Called both local shops, they both confirm that the entire rear is blown, and they both claim they are booked up for 2-3 weeks now. Guess I am in the wrong business. . . I must say I am a bit spectacle with there responses.
  14. The truck has aluminum wheels inside and out and have been checked so not that Transmission is used, but has 90 day warranty. This issue started to occur a few days after we drove the truck a bunch. Mack and a drive shaft Shop remade brand new drive shaft and new u joints and straps also I did hear about the auto diff lock peanuts and there is a section at the top of this rearend with its own Oil plug or so it appears. What would I do there? The truck was just working in a really muddy area where this would of been used a ton? Any suggestions? Is that a part we can change on our own without pulling the pig?
  15. Hello all, I have a 1983 Mack superliner with factory Neway air ride suspension. Ithe is a single Frame and I believe it has 38,000 rears. It does not have a power divider with the switch. I recently put a t2180 transmission is this truck and just got it back on the road and now I am hearing a sound from the front rear. It sounds like a big heavy flat washer dropping from my hand to the ground. It does this sound multiple times in 100 yards. The truck is not skipping a beat and after pulling the side cover off there does not appear to be any teeth missing or damage. Fluid was super clean and no shavings or steel dust at all. All my rearend shops are telling me the rearends blown and they also can't look at it for 7-10 days. That's a lot of revenue to lose with it just sitting. I can also tell you since this noise started a week or so ago, as he ran the truck it has gotten more frequent and louder also. Any help or suggestion would be very helpful! Please let me know.
  16. So, I had my mechanic check the truck out and it's actually the torque Rod arm. One side has no bushing in it at all it sounds like. My mechanic calls them dog bones. I have one ordered. 250 bucks. I will need to do this trunnion soon though! I appreciate the help and glad I found this site. Thanks all!
  17. The truck has camel back Mack suspension. 44k rears. I crawled underneath er and inspected the springs and area around the springs. No broken leafs, when I apply the brakes the rear end of the truck shifts slightly and you can just barely tell out the mirror the reagents walked a bit. When you apply the throttle it goes away. The truck still drives down the road straight and narrow
  18. I have a 1983 superliner I am working on. I just had Mack put a t2180 tranny in it. It will do 80mph now at 1700 rpms. I had it painted and am redoing interior. Good luck with your project! I am very partial to superliners my great uncle always wanted one and died before he had the chance so now I have 2 lol. 4th generation running macks
  19. Hello, I am into doing this. I am currently making a b model tandem 4x4. You will need to located a front axle with the same ratio as your rear pig first. You will also need a transfercase. Lxq is a place in toledo Ohio that's has alot of these things. Fabco is a good manufacturer to work with. If your savey with parts you can keep an eye on ebay sometimes people list these things. The transfer case is usually air selenoid controled. You will need a good Mechanic / fabricator to assist in this project. You will also have to have someone redo your drive shaft for rear and front. It will probably cost more then it's worth, however-- if your like me my stuff is never worth anything except what it's worth to me. When I want to buy something it is always top dollar. My feeling is sometimes being satisfied cannot hold a true cost. But if you Penny pinch and are patient and get the right parts and take your time it for sure can be done. Manders diesel is a great place to check out also. Keep in mind ritchie Brothers and Manders always are trying to sell wrecked or totaled trucks (4x4 bucket trucks ect) one went last auction for $2800 bucks. The transfer case was worth more then that. Good luck!
  20. Hey all, So I have a 2007 Mack ctp713 triaxle water truck. I just noticed the reagents had movement from front to back. Nothings moving side to side. I called my local Mack dealer and they wanted the Vin number. They called me back and said the job takes 24 hours and would cost me between $6-7k on a good smooth no other issue basis. 1-I don't have that kind of money, 2- I think that price is crazy seeing how they just charged me $9,000 to swap a tranny out, 3- I have never done suspension work. I have heavy equipment and welding equipment (I am in the oilfield we normally fix all our own stuff on the rigs) is this something I and my mechanic could do? They were very hesitant to tell me my parts price and would not tell me what's consisting of the job. I checked youtube and found a few videos but there not in English. I am in northeast ohio. If someone does this work or can assist me in helping out I am game. Please help!
  21. 2008 Mack cxu613. Has 760,000 miles on it roughly. Has a pto on it also. Truck has recently been serviced and checked out. Front end is tight with newer steers and fresh alignment. Crack around headlight from vibration but other then that trucks pretty solid. This is a good truck but my wife and I cannot afford to run it over the road. We are in the on-site construction business and this truck is too light duty for the work we do in the mud. I need to sell this truck because we can't afford the payment. Please enquire.
  22. The heater goes on and it makes a few clicks like it normally does like click click click. Then click click click (I always turn the key and wait 30-45seconds before I turn it over). This thing is boggling my brain. Mack said they doubt it's the ecm but could it be? There senior tech said if it was the ecm I'd most likely not get any smoke and it wouldn't start on ether.
  23. I have a Mack cxu 613 for sale. It has 760,000 miles on it. The truck was well maintained and has just been serviced and aligned. Has a tight front end with newer steer tires. I need to sell this truck because it is too light duty for me to use in my local Oilfield business and I can't really afford the payment. My wife and I used to run this truck over the road but quit after the numbers just were not working and we decided to focus on more local work. It has a pto on it and a hydro pac if the price is right. Crack in hood around Driver headlight from vibration. Reliable truck just can't use it or afford it. Asking 15k call if interested 2348064185 or tulsaruffneck5@aol.com
  24. Hey there, so I have a 1998 r model and it ran hot at highway speed and pulling an empty Trailer. Loaded forget it. I took the radiator in after I flushed it and it didn't solve the problem and the radiator Shop said it self destructed from the inside although the outside was perfect. Put a new radiator on and it never ran better. I had also replaced the t stat and I figured not the water pump bc it was a remack only a year old. Maybe check that radiator out. Good luck man
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