Moparmike

Hey guys I appreciate the help 

it's in the shop 

I been in trucking for about 18 yrs and last yr I decided to jump in to excavation and demolition and dirt Works 

so I really don't have the time to figure it out especially when it's the truck i pull my e

equipment with .mostly

I'll keep you posted and I appreciate all the help and response

10 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

now this adds a new road to travel with the statement "pedal goes to floor and not stopping". if the plunger was oxidized and stuck the brakes should be partially applied; which apparently they are not. or plunger NOT going all the way down to activate brake valve, combine that with only the left rear front wheel acting up! three other wheels ( plus steer axle )should stop unit. I would look at the pedal; possibly remove it , hope alum bracket doesn't break ;clean all parts. hold the phone;;; old school thinking again== is this pedal floor mounted  as in olden days or hang from under dash ?? 

truck stops just not how it usually stops

takes longer even empty

43 minutes ago, JoeH said:

Are you saying you have air leaks? Can you clarify what you mean here? With truck fully assembled you need to run through a proper Air System PreTrip Inspection! This will find any air leaks you have that could be causing your issue! 

Maybe I'm not following the thread well enough, but I don't get the impression that air leaks were checked for "by the book."

Here's a YouTube video on how to run the air system pre trip inspection.

 

I took lines off whole truck was running to verify air pressure was there 

35 minutes ago, JoeH said:

Reread this in original post and I'm a little confused, pressing brakes doesn't adjust them.

let pressure build before I adjust the out 

17 minutes ago, JoeH said:

New slack adjusters combined with indicating in one of the above quotes that you "pressed the brake to get everything adjusted back out"  is a red flag to me that you might not know how to adjust the brakes properly.  No offense meant, I'm just reading more thoroughly than I did my first time through.

biggest reason for the change was a few didn't adjust (SELF) so I just replaced all 4

all the 1s I took off was on the truck when I purchased it about 7yrs ago

and most times I try catch fleet pride deals on drum and brake kits change most stuff all at once 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

'R' cabs have the treadal valve in the floor, right where crap from your boots can get in there and jam things up..  it's odd how only 1 brake is not working..  is the clevis pin rusted solid? Did you have it off the slack adjuster, or did you just screw the camber on to the clevis while it was still attached..?  Very strange....

I remove clevis pins 

everything is free

I believe all brakes are not getting the pressure that they should but I could be wrong

the foot valve under the floor makes a noise when you press the brakes not sure if it's been there are not

I'll get a picture of it later today 

brake have 2 different valves on them 

and air comes out both lines when off press 1 air the other has air when you remove it 

but when empty the truck stops still not very good 

but at 70000 lbs I'm afraid that someone else will slam brakes 

5 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

How about a knot in the hose created during the repair?? 

everything is straight on hoses

you ready for me bring it to you mr Joey  👀

23 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

now this adds a new road to travel with the statement "pedal goes to floor and not stopping". if the plunger was oxidized and stuck the brakes should be partially applied; which apparently they are not. or plunger NOT going all the way down to activate brake valve, combine that with only the left rear front wheel acting up! three other wheels ( plus steer axle )should stop unit. I would look at the pedal; possibly remove it , hope alum bracket doesn't break ;clean all parts. hold the phone;;; old school thinking again== is this pedal floor mounted  as in olden days or hang from under dash ?? 

floor mount

3 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

"driver side  rear front " stated  would indicate tandem axle , might have a service valve per axle based on being a 2000?? can't recall excessive brake pressure blowing out a service valve.  have seen excessive pressure locking up/slowing down brake application when a cam stands up or jumps the shoe rollers and jams.

brake pedal don't seem to have the pressure it use to have 

it goes almost to floor and not stopping

I was wondering about a pressure valve 

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

You could also have broken friction material off the shoes, or cracked a brake drum.  When the brake drums get worn out and thinner they're easier to blow apart. But I'd expect that carnage would be obvious.

yes took drum off to verify brake are more  then half of new and I adjusted slack all the way around to confirm its not stuck or binding 

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

air the lines switched? the chambers are not isolated on the service side.  one valve should be sending service air to the service side of all of the brake chambers..  

yes sir lines are hooked up correctly

ok had a driver slam brakes in front of me so I had to slam slide duck everything

so now my brakes don't feel the same  takes longer to stop if I can when loaded

so I'm looking things over decided to replace all slack adjuster on back with new from mack 

as I'm looking things over I let air build up and press brakes to get everything adjusted back out 

driver side rear front axle does nothing

brake chamber doest move s cam not moving so I figure chamber 

put new chamber Samething not moving 

there's air on both lines 

where or what should I look at its 2 different valves in line I guess 1 is abs with a plug the other is big valve 

s cam is free not stuck when I press brake pedal it makes a noise can't remember if the noise was there before or after I slammed brakes

any help is appreciated

thank you 

thank you sir 

hey guys any of you have the part number for the oil sensor that's on the top of the oil filter housing 

2000 rd688s e7 400hp

I called my local dealership

4 auto slack and this sensor came up to 730.00

no way 

slacks are 120.00 each there so there is no way this sensor is that expensive

thanks guys

also I did a Google search but get alot if different 1

ran it about 45 minutes to a hr 

I open the cap and put my finger in there at that temperature not hot at all

ok guys got everything apart

took all hoses off from reservoir tank took hoses from top bottom of radiator

took hose from side of motor to transmission cooler 

flushed everything out with water 

put all hoses back on filled it with cascade let it run til it was blowing hot heat inside around 150 temp on gauge 

now I open reservoir cap the water is still cold I can put my finger in the water not hot at all

I'm thinking of changing out the thermostat 

what do you guys think

I figured try the cheapest part first 

or should I just do water pump and thermostat at the same time

thanks guys you'll been a great help

pic of said cooler with big orange hose and 2 hoses coming off the back 

ok guys I said oil cooler 

it's the transmission cooler that runs off the bottom hose on the radiator

my apologies

I haven't had much time to really mess with it but 

I'm going to have to make so.e time I really appreciate you all 

took belts off no bubbles

took drain out of the bottom of the cooler no water comes out of there even refilled it with drain ran it still nothing comes out 

Jojo if your not to busy I'd like to bring it down to you

have a few things I'd like to get you to do to it if possible

ok guys I have a 2000 rd688 e7 . I changed the water and antifreeze bout yr or 2 back .

checked it now it's rusty so I open the drain on the oil cooler nothing comes out 

.

so I pull the thermostat housing and the water is bubbling like crazy ..why I have no idea the truck is cold ..

any help would be appreciated

I have a video but can't seem to load its to large I guess

when my truck did that I just changed the shocks 

problem solved

try to push your wheels from side to side 

shouldn't be able to if so your shocks are bad

mines would get the truck to wobbling scary

my old truck sold it bout a yr ago 

has code 3/3

any help is appreciated 

trying help the people I sold it to out if possible

e7300hp

Allison auto 4560hd trans

I unplug the sensor on the top of the oil filter

light hasn't been back on yet

no oil in the plug plug looks great

going to try a new sensor see what happens

thanks guys 

will keep you informed

15 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

Fuel diluting the engine oil. Good call Joey.

V

nothing in oil 

just changed it to be sure 

15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Mike, have you put a gauge on the oil gallery to see if oil pressure is good and stays good?  jojo

no sire 

I've just watch gouge and its at 60psi