Moparmike

28 minutes ago, JoeH said:

My '95 is only a 350, doesn't have that trans cooler thing.  Dumb question, is it actually plumbed with coolant or has it been bypassed?  Again, I'm sure that's a dumb question.

No it’s plumbed with coolant 

it has a radiator coming from lower radiator that goes to it 

then another radiator hose off the top that goes to the oil cooler As well 

I believe it has 5/6 different hoses that comes off of it 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

maybe you will find a clog and clean it out for re-use.

I sure hope so 

That’s what it looks like 

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

have you pokes a small pick or something up in the hole?  

Yes sir couldn’t get anything in it and didn’t want chance putting a hole in it 

I think I’ll just remove the cooler and see what’s going on 

I price it online 1200 smh lol 

but I know it’ll make a difference in the temp I’m sure it runs around 180 all the time looking at gauge but it’s not cooling the entire motor 

I worked it today put my hand on the radiator hose (bottom) and it’s hot put my hand on transmission lines just warm and the cooler is not hot 

5 hours ago, JoeH said:

Coolant drain is a petcock on the lower radiator hose/tube. Approximate location is under the alternator. I assume this is the petcock you're attempting to get coolant out of? 

Yes sir 

there’s the radiator hose that runs to the cooler then there’s a set of transmission lines that goes to the cooler and a line that runs to the reservoir tank on the firewall all comes off the cooler that the petcock is in but can’t get anything to come out when I open it or even take it out 

im thinking that it’s only cooling part of the system since it seems stopped up 

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I bet the pet cock pee holes are clogged with that coolant conditioning powder that comes in the filter kits..

Hey Joey Mack 

you wanna replace the rear suspension bushings and u bolts for me 

5 hours ago, fjh said:

Maybe plugged! Take the whole fitting out!

I removed the fitting completely and nothing came out

The cooler on the bottom of my engine on driver side 

if I open the pit cock on it shouldn’t I get water out of it 

transmission cooler 

there’s nothing coming out of it even when truck is running 

I’m trying to drain coolant and change it out 

On 10/29/2024 at 2:11 PM, mowerman said:

ok thats better,,,lol,  truck looks to be pretty good shape,,,,bob

Thank you 

it’s in great shape

plan to paint it put aluminum wheels on back 

looking a air filter  housing and mount 

that’s not 1000 lol 

Sorry bout the picture I was at work lol

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

what year Mack?  

2000 rd688

6 hours ago, The Heinz said:

What engine is in it? I haven't seen an MP engine without a coolant filter, E7's and back are a different story.

We run almost exclusively red coolant in anything regardless of age here. 

E7400

Sorry bout that 

for the Mack this 1 doesn’t have the filter on the motor like my others did or is there 1 located somewhere else 

It’s time to change out my coolant 

what do you guys recommend 

I dud oil now coolant rears and transmission next on the list 

thank you 

Yes it idle at 700

ran for a while but kinda cool out 

it’s at 65/70 when start at the beginning of the day 

it’s around 50/60 while driving down the road 

just wanna keep the old dog going 

I have 10 some with tires 

8 lugs 

steel wheels 

600.00

My e7 has over 600000

on it my oil pressure after about 25/30 mins is around 35/40 

use to be higher should I be looking to roll some bearings in or just keep up the maintenance and keep riding 

truck runs and drives great 

also any where to get a reasonable price air cleaner housing and mount set up 

plan on painting old girl and mines is rusty 

My e7 has over 600000

on it my oil pressure after about 25/30 mins is around 35/40 

use to be higher should I be looking to roll some bearings in or just keep up the maintenance and keep riding 

truck runs and drives great 

also any where to get a reasonable price air cleaner housing and mount set up 

plan on painting old girl and mines is rusty 

Hey guys I appreciate the help 

it's in the shop 

I been in trucking for about 18 yrs and last yr I decided to jump in to excavation and demolition and dirt Works 

so I really don't have the time to figure it out especially when it's the truck i pull my e

equipment with .mostly

I'll keep you posted and I appreciate all the help and response

10 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

now this adds a new road to travel with the statement "pedal goes to floor and not stopping". if the plunger was oxidized and stuck the brakes should be partially applied; which apparently they are not. or plunger NOT going all the way down to activate brake valve, combine that with only the left rear front wheel acting up! three other wheels ( plus steer axle )should stop unit. I would look at the pedal; possibly remove it , hope alum bracket doesn't break ;clean all parts. hold the phone;;; old school thinking again== is this pedal floor mounted  as in olden days or hang from under dash ?? 

truck stops just not how it usually stops

takes longer even empty

43 minutes ago, JoeH said:

Are you saying you have air leaks? Can you clarify what you mean here? With truck fully assembled you need to run through a proper Air System PreTrip Inspection! This will find any air leaks you have that could be causing your issue! 

Maybe I'm not following the thread well enough, but I don't get the impression that air leaks were checked for "by the book."

Here's a YouTube video on how to run the air system pre trip inspection.

 

I took lines off whole truck was running to verify air pressure was there 

35 minutes ago, JoeH said:

Reread this in original post and I'm a little confused, pressing brakes doesn't adjust them.

let pressure build before I adjust the out 

17 minutes ago, JoeH said:

New slack adjusters combined with indicating in one of the above quotes that you "pressed the brake to get everything adjusted back out"  is a red flag to me that you might not know how to adjust the brakes properly.  No offense meant, I'm just reading more thoroughly than I did my first time through.

biggest reason for the change was a few didn't adjust (SELF) so I just replaced all 4

all the 1s I took off was on the truck when I purchased it about 7yrs ago

and most times I try catch fleet pride deals on drum and brake kits change most stuff all at once 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

'R' cabs have the treadal valve in the floor, right where crap from your boots can get in there and jam things up..  it's odd how only 1 brake is not working..  is the clevis pin rusted solid? Did you have it off the slack adjuster, or did you just screw the camber on to the clevis while it was still attached..?  Very strange....

I remove clevis pins 

everything is free

I believe all brakes are not getting the pressure that they should but I could be wrong

the foot valve under the floor makes a noise when you press the brakes not sure if it's been there are not

I'll get a picture of it later today 

brake have 2 different valves on them 

and air comes out both lines when off press 1 air the other has air when you remove it 

but when empty the truck stops still not very good 

but at 70000 lbs I'm afraid that someone else will slam brakes