Keith S

Found the first major part needing to be replaced: one of the rear hubs is cracked.

Two different hubs, the good one (except for a Helicoil) is casting 8QJ414. The other one is repaired or something. It's casting number is close to: 8QJ8131P1. I'm mot sure what its deal is. When removing the paint I hit some powdery residue then some soft shiny "metal". A lot of it; The "Mack" logo is barely visible. It's too hard for lead.

Anyway, I found a couple 8QJ414 on line but before buying one I thought I check here first for ideas and concerns. Anyone have insight on what to look-out for with used hubs?

It looks nice, but seems like a lot of things are unfinished for something that's "Fully restored".  Either my '59 is/was wrong, or the radiator core-to-firewall X-brace is upside down (and rusty and not painted).

Are the grill louvers movable? If so, anybody have pictures of the mechanism?

As far as "correct paint" and bolts and... I say build it like you want it - just don't hack it up. I'm converting my '59 to all electric. Probably about 5 different paint colors; cast iron parts will look like cast iron; black phosphate; gray springs; steel bushings & U-bolts... etc.

I'm also going for the big yellow 10,000 lb Tonka Truck paint scheme. For the interior; I haven't decided how far to deviate from the original paint scheme, "Any color you want as long as it's all green". 

I just removed the original gasoline engine from a 1959 Mack Model B-46. It has a rod through the block.

• The crank spins
• Starter is ok
• Tu-flo 500 air compressor is rebuilt
• Flywheel, clutch and bell-housing are not included
• Misc. parts and pieces, fan, water pump, intake & exhaust manifolds included

I hate to sell it for scrap, so if you or anyone you know is interested in it let me know. I live in Gainesville, FL.

I just bought a 1959 B46 and have the same about the brakes. Did you find out what, and how, the controls do and work? My dash is shown below. And I have a black knob.