Keith S

I'm working on the rear lights; turn, backup, brake, and license plate. Except for the backup lights, everything is the correct size. 

What do you think?

Okay, tires/wheels/rims look much better than I thought. A picture is worth... well, pictures are free so I guess it's the price of the camera.

I'll stop at the tire/rim shop and order the 22.5 rims and tires.

SnowDog, 2 miles/gal !!! Gallons, not litres.

The cost of that electric Mack is looking better (once it's built). I'm hoping for 140 miles (city driving) for about $5. Probably 70 miles for $5 "cruising". If the battery charge is really low (not a good idea), figure 4+ hours to recharge.

I just got a quote for six wheels/rims (8.25x22.5) and tires (Cooper Roadmaster) for $3100. The wheels/rims are reasonable, but the tires...

I suspect I won't like that gap but...  Any pictures of mounted 22.5's and that gap? And that "fix" to hide the gap. If I didn't know better and have the split rims to compare, would I know the difference?

I'm ready for tires & rims for my '62 B46 and I'm trying to figure out the rims for the Dayton hubs.

1. I need six new tires and probably 6 rims too.
2. It currently has 10.00 x 20 bias ply tube-type tires. The build sheet shows it originally came with 11.00 x 22.5 front & rear.
3. It looks like I have a combination of three different 2-piece Firestone & Goodyear rims - some rims are 20 x 7.5.
   1. A couple rims are damaged/bent
   2. A couple Firestone rims have non-matching side rings
   3. At least one Goodyear has what looks like an old lock ring
4. I'll happily replace all the rims if I can figure out what I need
   1. Tubeless or tube-type are acceptable as long they fit my spoke hubs
   2. Accuride catalog shows a lot of stuff, but not enough information to figure out what I need

So, What is available that looks good?

It does look cool. I had my B shipped from Maine for about $1 a mile.

On 8/22/2016 at 8:45 PM, j hancock said:

For the arms, I would browse hot rod catalogs or Brother's for something that would be close. 

https://www.brotherstrucks.com/

For those looking for Model B wiper arm replacements - not identical to original but... Anco #44-04. ebay for about $25 each; amazon for $21 & free shipping. The length is adjustable and comes with both 5/16" and 3/8" tapered, knurled driver for ISO shaft (double flats).

Wiper Parts.pdf

Rear wheel bearing adjustment procedure as stated in Mack's Wheel Bearing document:

1. Preload: Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 250 lb.ft
2. Loosen adjusting nut 1 full turn
3. Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 50 lb.ft
4. Loosen adjusting nut as needed to align the adjusting-nut pin with a hole with anti-rotate thing
5. Install outer nut & torque to 300-400 lb.ft

I've never tried the heat/cold thing with wheel bearings. I once did the freezer thing with pressed in piston pins - took too much time for lubing, aligning...etc to do it again.

I've never seen an axle spindle that didn't show any sign of wear on the bottom. Maybe not enough to catch a fingernail, but enough to measure; less than 0.001"

For roller wheel bearings (ball or cylindrical): The idea behind the inner-race (not the outer race) rotating on the spindle is to increase bearing life - it does not rotate fast, but the rotating inner race is another bearing surface. If it didn't/doesn't rotate, the rollers would quickly wear the bottom of the inner race. However, the rotating inner race can/does cause wear on the bottom of the spindle - normally the top of the spindle has very little (if any) wear. You'll almost always see minor wear on the bottom 1/3rd of the spindle - that's where the load is.

Unless specified as a press fit, putting a few punch marks on the spindle does not make the bearing a press fit, it just messes up that precision-ground bearing surface. The manufacturer spent a lot of money machining that surface.

Umm... Unless there's something new in the last 40 years, the bearing race is supposed to spin on the spindle.

I want add a passenger-side cab vent. Has anyone tried these Dorman cab door vent assemblies for size? There are dimensions, but not for the just the door. At $65+ they are not cheap, but easier than making one.

Or, does anyone have a cab vent door to sell?

Finally got around to setting preload on the rear bearings. From the Mack Brakes manual:

1. While turning drum/wheel preload adjusting nut to 200 lb-ft. - yes, 200 lb-ft!
2. Back off nut one full-turn
3. While turning drum/wheel tighten adjusting nut to 50 lb-ft.
4. If you can, check for at least 0.001 in/out movement of drum/wheel
5. If the pin on the nut does not align with a hole in the anti-rotate-washer thing, loosen the nut until it aligns
6. Tighten the lock-nut to 300-400 lb-ft.

I've been finding a lot of fine-thread nuts, bolts, screws... at AMK Products https://www.amkproducts.com 

Once you figure out their catalog system(s), they are great - start looking in BULK. Good prices too.

Door Jamb Bolts.pdf

The pre-load is surprisingly high, 100+ ft-lb. I'll be doing mine in a few weeks so I can update this post. Don't forget to check the axle tube wear surface. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/albums/72157685006281336

I won't be using my glove box hinges - they're bent to hell, but workable. I'm replacing the glove box  door, hinges, and "glove box". I haven't cut them out yet: probably in January.

Are you still interested, and what parts do you need? 

On 10/28/2017 at 10:25 PM, B MACK said:

What gets me, is all the crying of unarmed black men being shot by police, ( some would not be shot if they would not resist or try to fight ).    I drove over the road in the late 80's, flat bedding and have been in Chicago, Pittsburgh, Philly, Dallas and others. And I know things in the inner city haven't gotten any better.    But what I don't understand is ,NO ONE other than Sean Hannity, ever says anything of BLACK on BLACK killings in Chicago.  It is a crazy number.

Umm, this is what I read. Not sure what you're referring to?

If you'd listen and watch something besides Faux News and Sean Hannity you'll be surprised at what you can learn. But hang on tight because it will rock you boat.

I said it before and I'll say it again: What a bunch of cry babies. 

I would also like to replace my 17QJ3186 brake drums. Did you ever find aftermarket replacements?

Wow. What is all the crying about?

We control:

• The White House
• The Senate
• The House of Representatives
• The Supreme Court
• 34 State Governorships
• Wall Street

We're:

• Killing the unions
• Suppressing voting rights of undesirables
• Creating segregated schools and neighborhoods
• Deporting low-wage workers
• Building a wall paid by Mexico
• Draining the Swamp

1. Hillary is jail
2. We've won the wars in the middle-east
3. We'll be bombing North Korea out of existence
4. Healthcare is finally fixed
5. Tax reform will give us thousands of dollars
6. We're again respected around the world
7. Our leader is too busy working to play golf

Could it get any better?

If you want to vent your political views, do it somewhere else. Or am I infringing on your freedom of speech? Just like you're trying to do with NFL players protesting. Comedian Chris Rock said it best "... no white man in America would change places with me. And I'm rich." Veterans did not fight and die so that everyone had to bow to the whims of our dickhead-in-chief... that behavior is for North Korea.

Or is that the behavior you expect from freedom loving Americans? Or do you simply hate our Constitution?

How come none of this stuff is down here in Florida?

Every time I want something it's in the NE and costs a bucket of money to ship.

I recently started using a paint line produced by PPG called ALK. $65-$85 a gallon, ready to spray, no reduction. I've tried it with and without a hardener (ALK201). Touch time is 30 minutes, longer with the hardener. Pot-life (paint in the gun, or closed container) is forever without the hardener; something like an hour with the hardener. 

So far I like it. Ready to spray (without a hardener) is a plus; pour it from the can into your gun and you're good to go.

Umm... I'm no expert on split wheels, clamps, and spoke hubs, but since there are no moving parts to wear, welding a 1/4" rod to the spacer doesn't seem like the way fix something that should not be happening. If something weakens from fatigue after 50,000 miles it probably should be replaced/repaired. Maybe that's the case with the spacer(s) getting... crushed??? But it seems like if something fits correctly after being fully seated, (and isn't a wear item) the wheels or hubs or clamps or... something ??? is weakened and stretching (studs, clamps), getting crushed (weakened spacer) or flexing ???