Keith S

I'll be bobtailing for a while... and I hadn't thought about rocks and debris hitting the cab.

On a different topic and question after seeing Hobert's: Shock absorbers. Did B models come with shocks? If so, how and where were they mounted?

I'm at the Mud Flap & Hanger stage for my B46 eMack and looking for pictures to get ideas. 

The picture below is what came with the truck: VERY basic, welded on, no lights...

The new color scheme will be Tonka Truck Yellow.

I'm considering three different hanger choices (all with a basic mud flap; maybe Tonka stenciled on the bottom)

1. Old school coiled spring hanger
2. Straight bar - round, rectangular, or oval
3. Straight rectangular bar with three lights

You guys have some pictures of your mud flaps, hangers, and hanger length? Seems like 30" long hangers would stick way out there - yes, no?

- Keith

Good'ol rust. There's a sense of satisfaction when using a needle scalar - for about 20 minutes. Then you realize you have several hours of dust and dirt and paint and... But, a lot cheaper than blasting. It would work great on your heavy, scaly rust. Good on cast iron too - That's how I found multiple cracks in a rear hub.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/34284586933/in/album-72157684558130216/

Too bad there aren't more pictures of the B models. The Divco trucks are cool too. I was considering a Divco before I bought my B46.

I sort of agree with no-heat - if it's a new truck. But when the whole project is considered I suggest that 50 years of rust, load-stresses, vibrations, accidents, unknown repairs and methods of repair, frame straightening with big hammers (thinning the material), lots of heat and a lot of bending force... will have a bigger impact on the material strength than localized heating of the rivet & area. Unless there is documentation, it's really hard to determine if something is heat treated or it's simply a high-strength material.

Auto companies use high-strength steel and anticipate accidents and damage repair, so they make accommodations with welding guidelines. Mack Body Builder instructions also show proper welding and modifications to the frame/chassis.

With repairs and restorations and with unknown history, everything thing is a comprise. Seldom is an old vehicle "correct" and unmolested.

On 7/9/2017 at 9:15 PM, h67st said:

Well, I got some more brackets and such removed and I found some heavy rust on the frame rails. They will probably suffice since this will just be a hobby truck, but I'd  really like to replace them...does anybody know where I can get new or good used rails for an H67 tandem? I don't want to splice them. Second question: how do you remove the buck rivets in the crossmembers? I cut the head off one but the shank is swelled in the hole so it won't drive out.

Heat is your friend... lots and lots of heat. Hot and cool cycling the rivet will breakdown the rust - air cooling between cherry red is fine. And a hammer... a BFH (big f...ing hammer) and punch.

Sandblast the frame. Or, if you have a lot of time, ear protection, and strong hands, an air "pistol needle scaler" works great on a frame. To see how much work is involved you could try Hazard Fraught, but the needles won't last long. Don't buy the cheap replacement needles.

I'm not a fan of POR 15 or any rust encapsulation. If you go the POR 15 route, spray it, and two coats.

On 6/29/2017 at 10:37 PM, ttttrucks said:

Hello every one I have a cracked Hub on my 1954 B Mack I have looked for a cast # I have read up on and believe the # is 8Q414 does anyone know if that is right? Also where a guy might find one? I might have a guy with one but he wants me to make sure of the cast #. Any ways hope some one has the answers I am looking for. Thanks Mike.

I have an 8QJ414 on my B46. Flickr photo below

There was a couple of these in the Northeast area for $200 each plus shipping. I had a hub (not the 8QJ414) with what I thought was one crack - it had three cracks that I welded with a MIG welder. Cast steel, not cast iron so they weld without too much worry of cracking. It was a really poor casting that had a lot of factory welding/repair work - which gave me confidence in repairing/welding

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/34284586823/in/album-72157684558130216/

On 5/23/2017 at 6:43 PM, kscarbel2 said:

Are the original 38MO216 cab roof marker lamps no longer available from Watts ?

That's an interesting part number - it brought up a whole bunch of "equivalents". Specifically the DO-Ray 410's, which led to a whole bunch of truck cab lights. Anybody know about the DO-Ray 410?

My Model-B 46 came with five good KD517 bezels and amber lenses. What I don't have are the bases. Has anyone hacked-to-fit any of the new el-cheapo teardrop plastic cab lights to fit the KD517s?

At $23 for five el-cheapos, it doesn't seem like too big a waste of money if it doesn't work. I've wasted more than $23 on a lot of stuff/ideas that didn't work!

Looking for pictures for a Model B-46 (B-42...) non-extended front bumper and brackets. Pictures of something close to original would be great.

What came on the truck isn't close. So it sounds like the bumper should be close to flush with the grille, and there be rectangular "step holes"? Two bolts or 3 bolts to the frame brackets?

Pictures would be great. Thanks.

Hey B-Modellers, I'm looking for pictures, parts, or source of parts for my eMack's Parking Brake.

Specifically, I'm looking for:

1. The anchor bolt
2. The anchor spring

The picture shows what I'm looking for.

If I have a picture of the bolt, I can make it. I can fudge the spring.

Hit the jackpot on Mack Body Bound bolt part numbers & dimensions.

Either:

1. Visit: http://www.nextrancorp.com/nbindex.htm
2. Or: See attached pdf files.

Generally, prices are reasonable for bolts (except for that $7.00), nuts, washers

Body Bound Bolts.pdf

Bolts Cotter pin.pdf

Nuts.pdf

Washers.pdf

Anyone know part numbers for Mack's 5/8"-18 shouldered frame & crossmember bolts? I stumbled across a 3AX1644 at https://aerobasegroup.com/part-number/3AX1644_01-554-9490. $7.00 each!

Any ideas?

They look good to me. I'm going to make my own too - I can work on them a long time for the $500.

I'm also looking for window regulator parts. Did you find any of those spring washer parts?

I have a '59 B46 needing new linings.

• Where did you buy your linings?
• Did the linings come pre-drilled? My shoes have twelve bolts.
• My truck also has two sets of left shoes. The right side has a set of left shoes mounted up-side-down. Are the shoes symmetrical so that this does not matter?

Also, I have two different spiders. The left side is an aluminum job that's a little different. It does not have the rear bolt that prevents the shoe-pins from walking out. Has anyone replaced a spider with a new one?

I might be interested in two tank brackets. Shipping to Florida, 32605

• That aluminum chamber bracket was a mess - some serious galvanic action. Someone did a little grinding on the S-cam shaft to align with the slack adjuster.
• I found a pair of chamber brackets and slack adjusters for a CRD78. Naturally these were in the NE. How is it that everything is located in the NE?
• Brakes are a little worse than I thought. Left side is dry.

Questions: I'm looking for:

1. Brake shoe linings
2. Wheel bearing seals
3. Hopefully not drum(s) but...
4. Maybe an S-cam shaft
5. S-cam bushing kit(s)

• Are these things off-the-shelf items?
• Should the clevis pin and slack adjuster be a snug fit?
• I used serious heat to remove the clevis pins. Are these usually replaced after heating?
• Is there a spring kit for the brakes?
• Big socket for adjusting the bearings - how expensive is this?

Advice and ideas on what else to look for.

1. The chamber brackets: When I was taking Before pictures I noticed that when viewed from the front of the truck, the left chamber (mounted to the alum. bracket) is much closer to the ground and at a different angle. My first thought was - wtf. That's why I want to replace it. So far I haven't found anything close to either one. Any idea on who might have one?
2. I might repair the wheel hub.
3. As for the gear ratio... A quick check; The driveshaft turns 3+ times to once for the wheel. Could it be a 3.54? I thought I read that some of the stamped numbers dealt with tooth count? Maybe that wasn't for a Mack?
4. As for the differential: It's a dual reduction and has a ton of backlash - the driveshaft has maybe 5 degrees of play. Is this normal if the differential has a Power Divider? I'm going to change the fluid so I'll get a quick look down the filler hole.

I'm rebuilding '59 B46 and have some brake questions.

1. Brake chamber sizes: I have Type 12 on the front (5-11/16" dia.) and Type 30 on the rear (8-1/8"). Is this a common configuration?
2. The rear chambers are mounted on two different cast brackets - one cast iron, one cast alum. They are different shapes. I'd like to replace the right (alum) to match the left (iron). Or...
3. There are chamber brackets welded to the differential. Looks like I'd need a lot of parts ($$$) to move the chambers to these bracket. 

And ... some additional photos.

I'm rebuilding a 1959 B46 and have some brake questions.

1. Brake chambers: I have Type 12 on the front (5-11/16" dia.) and Type 30 on the rear (8-1/8"). Is this a common configuration?
2. The rear chambers are mounted on two different cast brackets - one cast iron, one cast alum. They are different shapes. I'd like to replace the right (alum) to match the left (iron). Or...
3. There are chamber brackets welded to the differential. Looks like I'd need a lot of parts ($$$) to move the chambers to these bracket. 

And ... some additional photos.

What's a line sheet and how do I get one. It's a 1959 B46.

J Hancock: When you say that casting number is still available, what do you mean? I've found several salvage 8QJ414 hubs, but they're all in the northeast - shipping to FL is $250. Anyone know of a cross reference for this hub?