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brettj3876

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Posts posted by brettj3876

  1. Went from full mechanical injection with the Bosch P pump (p7100) to the semi electronic Vmac 1&2 with the electronic gov housing. Fly by wire. Timing controlled with econovance. Ran off of oil psi with a gear on a swedge basically to advance/retard timing as needed, to satisfy the EPA. Then came fully electronic Etech with unit pumps ran off the cam. 

     

    Really it's apples to oranges comparison the old E-7 to the E-tech. The best engine mack ever made was the mechanical E-7 and vmac 1&2. The E tech doesn't even sound like a mack except a tiny bit at idle. 

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  2. 2 hours ago, JoeH said:

    My 95 e7-350 (all mechanical) tops out at about 25 psi boost. It has trouble getting out of it's own way, but it gets where it's supposed to go. Will make 1200+ degrees EGT, though I try not to push that number.  I just assume it's working as it should....

    Post turbo probe? I would keep try to keep it under 1050. Our says 1025 max and 99 says 1100 max. 1200 won't hurt it for short bursts but deff don't pull a couple mile grade like that

  3. On 7/29/2020 at 7:13 PM, Bliue dm said:

    I would like to also know the difference between it and other e7 400. There is so much on this topic like. I hear some of these engines have two piece pistons... Some people say the compression ratio are different but when you look at a mack chart you see thats not true? 

    Your boost sounds a bit low. Think it should be 28 at the min to 32. Don't have the book in front of me now. They have 2 piece piston. Steel top/alum skirt. Give mack the ser# to find out what comp pistons it has. They were all over the place in diff years. For example the 93's 250-400 all had 16.9:1 (conflicting info around) some literature says 375 and up 15.3 and below that 16.5 but mack had changes over the yrs. One book said our 93 was 16 5 and another 16.9. It ended up being 16.9:1 (591 tops) 

     

     

     

    I doubt it's 16.9 could be 16.5 15.7 or 15.3

  4. 7 hours ago, Stangbangin said:

    I just put new injectors in it from D&W in Binghamton and the guy told me don’t run bigger injectors because the tips tend to break off. My truck never sees more then 200 degrees on engine temp and swings maybe 28psi on the boost and it will see 900 degrees on the exhaust temp if I lug it to death. Just seems like it’s not getting the fuel it needs. Charge air cooler is new, intake manifold gaskets, intake to compressor tube, charge air boots are all done. 

    28 psi seems a bit low. I thought 427 file was somewhere around 34-36psi. We're 10 min south of Binghamton

     

    Don't listen to those guys. We've dealt with d&w before. By law they can't do any hp increase due to emission regs. I haven't heard of injectors cracking and there is a lot of guys running stage 2 & 3 on here. Antrim has dyno'd a few E-7s putting 700+ to the ground. 

     

    Since you just put new injectors in I'd go with the Blixxton. It made the 460 a completely diff animal. I think you'll be happy with just that. Seat of the pants dyno felt like 100+ hp easily. 

    If you run alot of North East good chance you spotted us before

    20180908_161945_HDR.jpg

     

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  5. You can pick up those 475's for 600 new. In order to gain anything though you have to do injectors at the same time otherwise that'll be too much turbo. The last few days up here in the 90s we haven't had any heat issues either. Turn the fan on bottom of a hill and water temp maybe hits 215-220 on a hard pull running close to 80k 

  6. Leave the 427 file in it. Has a better torque curve than the 460. Antrim in Greencastle pa is really good performance shop that does a lot of E-7s. Blixxton has a plug and play tuner but im not sure if it works on CCRS E-7? We put one on a 99 460 and it was night and day difference in power and gained .75mpg. Huge puff of smoke between shifts but clears up real quick and 850-875 is hot as pyro gets and 38 psi on a cold morning. 

     

    Some guys here with bigger injectors are pushing 45+ psi. If you do a lot of stop and go city driving the BW S467 (1.15 A/R i believe) has good throttle response but the top end will suffer a bit. If you do mostly highway driving i would get a s475 1.32 A/R. It will lag a bit off the bottom, but once it spools hang the **** on. 

     

    Edit: here's the link to the Blixxton. Imo it was worth the 1400 price tag. Already paid itself over in fuel savings. Stock turbo and injectors it hangs right with the 93 with bigger injectors/turbo and blixxton. That's what I would do 1st. 

     

    https://www.rochesterdiesel.com/store/product-blixton-mack-200-performance-module_322

     

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  7. On 6/18/2020 at 9:52 AM, Mack Technician said:

    Fuller is reliable, cheap and universally available. If you want a good, generic, standard issue, truck transmission, perfect pick. For as petite as the interior of the transmission is they hold up well. We get more mainshaft twists on Fuller than Mack when out in the woods. 

    Mack is tougher & more expensive to repair and run. It had synchro issues in the T200..T300 improved the synchro.  Fuller synchros fail too, but are cheaper. Mack gives you more case windows and V-spacing to take power off the trans...heart shape makes two separate zones for driving power backwards and good for neutralizing and PTO speed variables. Triple shaft aluminum case makes it light so it can be big and still compete for equal payload against a steel double countershaft model. 

    Every now and then going from High to low range in t2180 will go BANG. Not every time tho. Someone's been in the back box before. Still holding together but she's LOUD. The old school double over in the 93 is quieter LOL

  8. 2 hours ago, Mackpro said:

    All the RD’s that I have seen that came factory with a 460 had a Horton air fan,  If it has a viscous fan on it might have been originally a lower HP engine then later upgraded to a 460. The RD radiator it barely big enough for the 460 HP

    Should be ht550? Not a fan of them, previous owner might of done the viscous. Shit design, the little bit grease  it has gets blown out after a while and seizes up. 

  9. On 1/25/2013 at 4:51 PM, dusty0791 said:

    The truck is a 1996 e7 427 at about 1600 rpm the truck will start to surge like its not getting fuel or the timing is off. New filters new lift pump any suggestions??

    If that doesn't work It's probably one of the wires on the deutsch plug (9 pin connector going into the gov housing) J1939, possibly timing event marker. Check for continuity in all the wires. I know it's tedious but that will give you piece of mind it's not that. That's another issue. How does it start? If it's starting like normal, evens out after the oil psi picks up you can probably rule out the econovance going bad. 

     

    When it stumbles/studders does it throw out white smoke or smell raw unburnt fuel?

     

    I'm betting its deutsch plug we had same issue before. I could very well be wrong but we had the surge your talking about.

     

    You could get long hose to go into the cab and tee of a fuel gauge and see it's getting right psi. Don't remember what it's supposed to be. 

     

     

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  10. Yea I'd like to know also? Haven't heard much on the switch blade as far as macks go you're the 1st. Only other thing i would suggest is the 171702 (bw s475) we run that turbo with 42 psi. Bit leggy on the bottom but once she spools it's off to the races with rochester's stg 2 on 93 vmac 1. Soon to be fully mech

  11. On 2/28/2020 at 1:59 PM, VQ2Fast4U said:

    I hate to drag up an old thread but i need to convert my 97 CH613 E7 vmac2 to mechanical due to an electrical fire. Im not getting anywhere asking the dealer or local bosch pump shop. Can I just remove the whole electronic governor assy and install an RQV style governor? Maybe lock the econovance to fixed timing, or run a boost reference switch to activate it. Ill post some pics of the pump and engine tags.

    Thanks!

    Adam

    Can't just change the gov. Housing has to be a full mech pump to convert properly. You can lock up the econovance and still use the same lines, etc. Today we just picked up the mech pump we had built. After we do the install I'll write up everything we had to do in order to convert. I know a few guys would love to do this conversion as well. We have everything but the linkages but not sure what way to go about it. We were even thinking about a cable set up over linkage. 

     

    The guy that did our pump John Miller, we asked him if it would be ok to send some more guys his way and he said no problem. He knows the guys from antrim very well. Lives upstate ny. Pm me for his contact info or if it's ok I can post his # here

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  12. On 1/16/2020 at 8:31 AM, convoyduel said:

    That would be an extremely reliable truck. Won’t be the torque monster feel of a 475 Cat but it will be consistently reliable, easily serviceable and will drive very nicely.  The EM7’s felt more powerful than the E6’s which were kind of slushy in the CH’s.   The mid to late 90’s CH models are excellent money makers and don’t exhaust a driver.  The only real downfalls were that the cabs tended to rust around the rear windows and underside corners if they ran in salt and weren’t cleaned much.  

    And along the back of the sleeper sill. We had to fab a new one for the 93 when we got it. Really the only spot that was cancer. Last summer we blasted the frame from sleeper back

  13. 4 hours ago, david wild said:

    True but at least somebody is building something for a Mack, seems nobody builds anything for Macks, Cat and Cummins all the toys you could want, Mack you get close to nothing, little box  and some bored out injectors ?   

    Rochester has the ceramic and pp high flow manifold. Have you talked to Antrim? 

  14. Did you get a chance to test the new housing? I would love to hear your opinion. I personally don't lug it below 1400 anyways. Don't wanna put more stress than necessary since she's already turned up. Coming out of jersey on I-80 into PA where it meets 380 i can pull that hill about 58mph with 40k in the box. Only have to split from 8L to 7H

    We do mostly highway miles so the slight laggy-ness of the 1.32 isn't a hindrance for us. If we were doing stop and go local work all day it'd be a diff story tho. Prob would swap to 1.15 or 1.25 a/r.

  15. On 1/15/2020 at 4:52 PM, mackmanb61x said:

    Already have Rochester stage 3s but they smoke constantly under full fuel. Experimenting with turbos right now. Had their performance turbo on it but it never cleaned up the smoke. They use a K31 style turbo. I was getting around 45psi out of it with the wastegate blocked. Egts were up to 1400 pre turbo on a long pull.  I will let you know when I find a nice combination. 

    S475 (171702) on a vmac1. 15.3 pistons and rochester stg 2 injectors with blixxton does 42-43 and besides mashing it before the turbo spools their isnt much smoke at all. You can find em for $650.  1.32 A/R  75/96mm. 

    I always wondered what their turbo was. Do you know the A/R and wheel sizes on their turbo. 2200 is a bit much. Prob making a cool 1000 on each turbo.

     

    Edit: post turbo egt tops out around 975-1000 on a very hard pull and takes a good 3-4 minutes to get up that high. A little laggy but once it hits 1400 it takes off like a raped ape pulling 43psi @ 1375 on up

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