brettj3876

On 9/26/2022 at 9:06 AM, Dirtymilkman said:

I have a 2001 etec that easily puts out 500hp and it has 1,000,000+ miles with only injectors and valves set every 250,000 miles.  Otherwise only thing done was 2 eup's, a starter and waterpump. I also am the only one to drive it. No trouble cooling it in a CL, but make sure the cac is a good one. Also, you want a e7 with the two piece pistons. 

Yeah some of these people make me laugh saying a E7 can't live above 500hp Lol. On a fully mechanical E7 I've got Stg 2 Rochester injectors, pump opened up all the way, S475 turbo and the timing set at 21 degrees. No problem keeping it cool and it's lived this way for over 200k since the inframe. No blowby and doesn't use oil. I don't lug it below 1350. Lugging a turned up engine is what will kill it early. It has the 15.3:1 pistons not the 16.9:1 it came with. If you want big power you need the 15.3 pistons. That what the 650 marine engines came with 

My uncle has a 500 60 series Detroit and it walks away from him like it's not even there. We also have a 99 460 with the blixxton box and it walks away from that too. 

https://youtu.be/1a7jNgVgClA

Apparently a 1430 E-6 with 3 turbos and some custom pump work. Just a show truck but she hasn't blown up yet. Blew a boot on Dyno 

7 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

when you pulled out of the yard there and went up the hill passed the Pumpkin Patch, (Schnieder)  there was a store there top of the hill....  (Gosh) I hope I remember correctly...  I would always get there tuna sandwhich,  and drinks.....      When I worked out of that terminal, I lived in Old Orchard Beach M.E.   My longest commute to work.... EVER....   jojo

Hmm on top of the hill? Pump and Pantry maybe. That's before heading down the big hill before coming into Tunkhannock. Or there's another on a hill a few miles further D&C they make really good subs/burgers to order not pre made crap. 

P&G is actually pretty quick now live loading. Gate to gate 2hr avg, even quicker sometimes. They call you when your loaded not you having to constantly call them. I like loading out of the plant better than the drop lot warehouse on top of the hill

Getting right around 6.8-7.0mpg running loaded both ways to Jersey and back with the 93ch. About 6.2 with the 99 but that has 4.42s so it's not terrible for what it is. Bit over spec'd for dragging a van around Lol 

On 5/16/2022 at 6:22 PM, Joey Mack said:

I sent you a P.M.    Maybe 3 times.. not sure, something wasnt right,  I drove Pumpkin trucks out of Mehoopany, from '98-early 2000..  I ran that area a bunch, because I was sent to New England on 95% of my loads... I used to drive by my (home)  exit in Maine,  when I delivered to Skowhegan, and such.. I pulled a lot of P&G loads from the mill, in the 'Endless mountains' well a year and a half's worth...  

I've pulled out of p&g a lot. I live 40 minutes from there up on the NY line. Last exit on 81, exit 230. Nice light loads of paper towels and shit paper. My dad did too when he was with Kane outta Scranton. 

With my discount I'm paying 5.69 at the mom and pop I fuel at. Usually about 50c off a gallon

The 427 etech has a flatter tq curve. The 460s are more rev happy. The 460s pull the best at 1600-1850 where the 427s like 1400-1600/1650

7 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

Just a note, cracking the throttle on this E-9's does more harm that good. Any diesel will blow black when the puff limiter is disconnected. True test is rolling on the fuel under load. The idea is to have minimal smoke and increase in power. I can sure put on a show (rolling coal) and attract usually the wrong attention. Remember there are big fines for emissions violations in most states. That said you have ways to go to get the set-up right.

Yes the turbo is to small for the amount of fuel, if pump is turned up all the way, nozzles are to small, timing is very critical, governor needs work, fuel return valve needs changed, etc. along with other things.

BIG Note: With more power more heat, valve seats fall out and destroy the head, piston, liner, turbo, expensive fix! How do I know!  About $6000 in parts and down 6 weeks if I did not have the parts and do the work in my shop. Still was a 20 hour fix. Mack Dealer did not have a Tech that EVER worked on an E9. Not doing it right for some FUN.. but I learned real quick..

Have fun but know that changing one thing means changing a lot of things to get it to work properly and with a lot of left foot moderation (REAL Important) to not break other expensive things. Have a spare engine, clutch, driveshafts, etc. for parts...👍

 

Took her for a ride today. Just easing in into it hardly smokes at all. Just a light haze of smoke at 1600 on a pull. About 875ish just a hair under 900 on the pyro. No aneroid on the pump but that'll probably end up going back on. I know yours is a play truck (from what i read right?) This will end up getting a 1.45 78 or 80 since its a work truck

15.3 pistons in it now. Came with the 16.9s as a 350

2 hours ago, Abryan1019 said:

Nice, so foregoing the injectors and turbo for the box is a safe and reliable option? I’ve seen them before, just don’t ever hear much Feed back on them.

Yea on the 99 we run one. Besides that it's stock otherwise. Definitely noticed a nice hp gain and about 0.5-0.6 mpg increase also. Imo do that 1st and if your not satisfied then go injectors/ turbo

S475 1.32A/R for about 650-700 will work perfectly with stg3. Look into the blixxton programmer from rochester diesel. We run one on a 99 460. Everything else is stock on it and it pulls damn good. 

Check out this video. A 93 we just put a mechanical P7100 on with some work done to it. Not even close to stock

https://youtube.com/shorts/guoqVaulZVk?feature=share

Might have to play with her a bit. Going on the 1st ride tomorrow picking up a whopping 7000 LBS. Timing set conservative at 18°

On 7/24/2021 at 11:34 PM, AZB755V8 said:

I found a NEW inline E9 pump and the topic strayed to Hot Dogging Macks and such. So this topic is about getting the most out of what you got, not just keeping the old dog barely alive. To start I Love BIG Power, it comes at a price but with these Old Macks is so EZ to Have. Not for everyday working truck modifications but for hobby trucks and occasional outings to take the old mechanical dog on a "Run". This topic will not be for all but will be useful information all the same.

I finally got some space and time to pull out the Tank Quad Turbo set-up that I got some time ago. In preparation for this I was looking for inline E9 injector pumps. 

To start the NEW E9 Pump was damaged in shipment. Fed-Ex Said that claim was to be files by the shipper. Pump came from Italy so not hoping for a lot. It has to go to the pump shop for repairs so.... Lets get it Turned-up. Thinking 20% on fuel and 20% on the governor. This will be a Hot road engine maybe going in a MH Ultraliner that is out beside the shop, only has 118,000 original Km on the ticker.

Along with that I got a pump or two that I got over the years to put on the calibration machine just to see where things are at. (2) 12mm, 13mm & 14mm shown.

Power start with the pump and you got to know where things are at to begin with.

Now the Tank Engine set-up. Mocking this up today on more than likely the engine that will be rebuilt to handle the power output that this set-up will deliver with a 14mm pump and a little "Secret" stuff. No shifting required with this set-up, as manual trans do not shift well over 2500RPM's. Trans is the bullet proof cable shifted, no electronics, Allison HT750CR Automatic. There were only a very few E9's with Automatics orders only by the US Military and I believe they were HT740 Allison's.

Lets talk, Hot Rod Stuff, From the other post 300bar injector pop-off is higher than Mack spec but it works better for fuel atomization it is 50bar higher than Mack spec. About every 25bar the engine timing needs advances 1 degree, 2 degrees for 50bar.  

https://youtube.com/shorts/guoqVaulZVk?feature=share

Fully mechanical pump on the 93. 12mm pump maxed out as far it can go. I know it's still a 12mm but the pump guy changed to a diff barrel/plungers

The link to YouTube should work. Blacker than black Lol. Prob gonna need 78 or 80mm turbo. The S475 might be too little now

On 9/1/2021 at 2:53 PM, Ak47 said:

Ok so, I have 736gb343p7 injectors, was told by an injection shop they just change out the nozzle on the injector for 427 nozzles. Wondering if that would work without changing springs and internals of injector body. 

Don't even bother with 427 tips. Go to Rochester diesel or K&S fuel and get injectors. You really won't notice anything different with 427 tips. Get the blixxton and stg2 injectors from rochester (they only make stage 1 and 2 for vmac1 and 2). You can run the stock turbo with the blixxton and stg2 injectors for now if you don't want to do the turbo yet. Install a pyro if you don't have one yet. Don't lug it below 1450 or the pyro will heat up. 

Imo go with the Borg W S475 1.32 with the other 2 mods and it will pull like a raped ape. Don't lug it below 1400 and it will live a long life. It's better with a 13 but if you just have a 9sp or 10 keep it 1400-1850. Lugging it with more fuel over stock will kill the life expectancy. It will pull down to 1200 but don't do that. I personally grab a gear at 1450-1500 but that's with a 13

The blixxton is a MUST HAVE. Otherwise going stg2 injectors won't feel much different than stock. The blixxton allows the rack to open up all the way and allows it to open sooner than stock

Going stage 2 injectors i would go with a S467 (67mm inducer) from YTS turbo. A few of the guys on here run one and are very happy with the response. We run a S475 1.32A/R with rochester stg2 injectors. I personally love it. It's a bit laggy below 1350-1400 but holy shit it pulls like a bear from there on up. Get the 300$ blixxton tuner if you don't yet have it. That will make the biggest improvement.

It pulls 42 psi boost from 1450-1700 with the s475

You can buy a Borg Warner s475 for 675-700

On 7/22/2021 at 7:22 PM, AZB755V8 said:

If I was planning on putting a HOT E9 in a hobby truck there would be no need to get all kinds of parts, just work with mostly what I have.

If all parts are reusable:

Standard pistons, sleeves. Check diameters and roundness to specifications. Sleeves do crack, check to see if there is any rust scares in the sleeves. Hone the sleeves use new rings. All new bearings, gaskets and seals. "Small Head" bolts these are the better ones. Head bolts do snap on these engines. Do a valve job, check guides. Original valve springs should be fine, have them checked for seat pressure at install height. Maybe shim to increase seat pressure 20-25lbs. Valve seats come loose on E9's with added heat and not driving them properly. Never take your foot off the peddle completely after pulling a long incline. Keep some heat going on the downgrade.

Turn pump up 20% on fuel and 20% on RPM's, that is 255cc on fuel, stock is 212cc for 500hp. Governor from stock 1900 to 2300RPM's. Use the stock injectors and nozzles set to 300Bar. This is good for 625 plus horse power and will run down any other truck on the road. Adding a new Borg Warner SE480, large exhaust wheel Turbo, around 1.18 A/R exhaust housing and that is it. You have to get a clutch capable of holding 3000ft/lbs of torque giving your left leg a workout.

Most inline pumps ether 6 or 8cyl are 10-12mm barrels. 13mm and above sizes are not stock, in most cases, There is a 13mm, PE8P130A pump that is used on the Big Iveco Eurostar in Europe but is a base mount not a flange mount pump as on a Mack. One thing that I need to state DO NOT WORK ON ANY INJECTION PUMP, TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE PUMP SHOP. You can not do the work without a calibration bench and machine. They will recalibrate the fuel delivery, the governor and pop off pressure for the injectors. There are very few shops that will modify a pump with larger barrels, cam, delivery valves, etc. Never use anything but factory Bosch parts for the pump.

RPM's are not your friend the lower the better. I can say that a T2180 will not shift if you are over 2500RPM's, it will stay in gear until the input speed comes down. 

You have a lot of knowledge

I bet that S480 spools instantly with that 1.18 A/R. Timing set in the high 20s running those high rpms? I know a lot of pulling 12V are set in the mid 30s

We just converted vmac1 to fully mechanical. The guy that built it builds hot rod 12v cummins for sled pulling. I don't exactly what he did to the pump i do know he put a quick rate cam in it and different p/b still 12mm. We're getting it dialed in now. We need to adjust the fuel plate it's only getting 35psi now and 40 with old pump before. Anxious to how it pulls. Timing set at 18 but egt came up quick so it needs a few more deg 20-21 will do.

S475 1.32, stg2 injectors from rochester diesel

On 7/10/2021 at 6:20 PM, Joey Mack said:

34 is a bit high...  anyway, do you simply have a boost leak.... gaskets, hoses, C.A.C. boots, top right corner of the C.A.C.?.......    jojo

That seems about right with the blixxton. 33 is what we were pushing with one

Imo going full mechanical is the way to go. Everyone that has driven a full mech says they pull circles around the vmac 1-2. Your already setup for the manual throttle anyways. It's gonna be a royal pain to change everything over to fly by wire

Get rid of the econovance and mount a mechanical p7100 up to it and you'll have a nice mechanical E-7. Gonna need new fuel lines too since moving the pump location. We just did this to our 93. Set the timing around 17-18 deg to start but you'll probably like it right there

The pic is upside down Lol but in my avatar that's the mechanical pump we had built. Working on getting the throttle and shut off cable working now. Probably be on the road again by next week

You'll also need a diff style coupler on the end of the pump. I don't know the # off the top of my head but I'll get it. Bout 600$ from mack

They're happy in the 1300-1700 range

Not much you can do like you stated already have the blixxton. The throttle response is like that because of the EPA not wanting it to smoke too much down low. The blixxton I feel helps a lot imo. 

You should think about stg2 injectors and a diff turbo. That's what we did with the 93. We also bought the new blixxton for our 99 460 E-tech and that really woke it up. Still can't out pull the 93 tho. But with injectors and a turbo I bet it'll give it a run for its money then

15-40 Rotella. Change every 15k. Both trucks never use more than half a gallon between changes. Works good for us

The s475 turbo i suggested is 600-700 brand new from Borg Warner. But you do need bigger injectors to run it. Stage 2 or 3 from rochester would work good with that setup. Or call k&s and ask what injectors they would use for the setup

On a 93 with stage 2 injectors i see 42psi with that turbo from 1400-1750ish before it starts to drop off

Instead of OEM injectors look up KS fuel or rochester diesel. Ks is cheaper than rochester. That's the way I'd go if wanting more horse. Leave maxi file in it. It produces a more usable power band than say a straight 460 file. If upgrading the turbo look at the yt467 or s475 BW

Personally i like the big S475 1.32A/R. It's a tad laggy off the line (not too much) it pulls good down to 1300 and up top 1500-1750 rpm is where you see the advantages over the smaller turbo

Your temps are fine. We run a little bit bigger turbo (s475 1.32ar) and have the same temps as you. As long as we keep it above 1400 the pyro stays below 1000. 1650-1700 on a hard pull she's right around 900-950 and on flat ground around 700

I didn't realize e6 pump would mount up? 

When were swapping out the vmac1 for the mech pump were getting rid of the econovance all together. Takes some hp to turn that. Mount the pump and get new lines is all. 

As for the timing I'd stay around 17°. The guy that built our pump is very knowledgeable and he said right around there. Too far advance and you'll lose all the low rpm grunt. Better to be a tad retarded than too advanced. 

You can fool the computer on the vmac and mess with the timing. The TEM (timing event marker) drill that out and in large the 2 slots so you can have a tiny bit of play up and down. Forget which way is advance and retard. You can also take the tone wheel off and then rotate it just a cunt hair. To fool it that way it's the opposite of what you'd think.