brettj3876

Not on an AC but a plain ole 1999 E-tech 460. It definitely woke it up some. Think it cost 1400 from Rochester diesel. It's too bad nobody can do custom tunes for the E-7s 

Detroit and cat have a bunch of reputable custom tuners. Send them your ecm and tell them what you want done. Would be nice if we could do that Lol 

On 4/5/2023 at 7:43 AM, Joey Mack said:

Bingo..  I knew I was forgetting something...  Thanks, FJH

Yeah I kinda figured that was a vmac. Right now we have the timing at 20 degrees. Might try bumping it up to 22 and see how it likes it. When we first had it at 16-17 degrees it didn't like it at all, too far retarded. Right now we're averaging 6.2-6.3mpg running all hill country. Closer to 7 if we run all light loads for the week 

Fun fact, I found the tag off a ME-7 650hp marine engine. 15.3:1 compression and 23 degrees timing 

I like how the mechanical 3406b/c have the timing advance with the governor so it advances it as rpms go up instead of fixed time 

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

I did have the '95 book... I hope this helps you. 

That pic is for the mechanical right not vmac? I can't see it very good on my phone. 

Do they have some sort of timing advance like cat does on their inline pumps? I remember some of the E-6s being around 19-21 degrees. 

I was under the assumption that all the e7 mechanicals used the same P7100 not the Robert Bosch or AM 

I have the timing at 20 degrees right now. Started out at 16 and that was too retarded....ran like shit 

With that low of timing it has to have some sort of advance as it goes up through the rpm. 

On 4/2/2023 at 6:39 PM, Joey Mack said:

I am by no means as proficient on this engine as I am on the next generation..  But,, my question is...  was there a different injection timing setting that needed to be in place..  My rusty mind remembers 5 degrees B.T.D.C. on a mechanical Robert Bosch pump, if you have the Shwitzer S400 So41 turbo (stock setting). The turbo may not be part of the equation...   Mechohaulic???  He needs you!!!!

That 95 being a full mechanical would be a P7100. Not the semi electronic pump with the electronic gov housing. 

I don't have a book on hand but the mechanical ones were in the area of 17-21 degrees fixed time.

On 4/2/2023 at 6:16 PM, fjh said:

Did you ever check for boost leaks?

Yeah and got a new charge air cooler. No boost leaks, just too much fuel for that small turbo. That was if you lugged it below 1400. Keep it above that and about 950 was the max

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Yup totally agree on the pyro !

Before the inframe and before we converted it back to a mechanical engine we had the blixxton. The egt's would climb super fast, you had to constantly watch the pyro and back out of it and drop a gear. It would easily go past 1100 if you didn't pay attention. 

44 minutes ago, tjc transport said:

we had a 73 u model dump like that at the old job. it as the mechanics race truck. 237 block, worked 300 injectors, worked injector pump, oversized turbo. i know he did something different with cam and pistons too. it would shut down a road if he stood on it. got stopped once and failed smoke test with 98% opacity.😁

Dad's 1971 F700 had the ole 237 maxed out. He said the turbo looked bigger than other 237s he saw. The company he worked with had all macks from 237s to 315s. This was back in 1982. He said his would slightly pull away from the 315s and 318 Detroit's. Then he got a 74 U model 237 and said it was nothing compared to the 71 

On 3/20/2023 at 9:11 PM, 95RD said:

I have a 1995 RD 688 with and e7 350 all mechanical. I have heard for years how you can turn these engines up. To 400+ horsepower but I can’t find any information on how to do this. Does anyone have any information on how to do this. Do you change the injectors? Turn the fuel pump up? If so, how. 

Get a pyro if you don't have one. You will need it with the stock turbo. That stock turbo will be out of its efficiency range. To do it right I'd also do a bigger turbo that will lower your egt's and stage 2 Rochester injectors. 

The injectors won't supply anymore fuel than the pump will flow. But turning up the pump with stock injectors will give it a longer pulsewidth (meaning more time to deliver the fuel, thus increasing egt's and in theory retarding the timing because fuel is still being squirted in closer to TDC). Stage 2 injectors will squirt the fuel in faster and give it a better burn. 

I would go with a S475 (75mm) with a 1.15 exhaust housing or a 1.32/ The s475 comes with the 1.32 housing and you can get it for 650-700ish OEM borg warner. The 1.15 exh housing can be bought separately for 200-250. It will have a quicker spool up but won't breathe as good on the top end.

As far as timing I would leave it alone at 1st and ask Antrim what they would do. They'll probably say don't bump it more than 2 degrees. 

We have the pump opened up all the way and all the mods I just listed. The guy that built it put in different barrel and plungers (same 12mm but they came out of some AG equipment, that's all he'd tell us) 

All this was done during an inframe over 200k ago with 15.3:1 pistons. Doesn't burn any oil between changes. Little less than half gal. Which is normal consumption. 170 thermostat and it won't see over 200 degrees on a hot summer day running in hill country. And pyro won't go over 950-975 

Remember when you turn up a diesel you want to run a little higher rpm than stock. Even though it will have power down low like a maxidyne don't lug it below 1350 for any length of time. Lugging a turned up engine will kill it faster than anything else. I personally don't take it lower than 1350 unless I'm just about to top a hill. 

Respect the extra ponies and it'll last just as long as stock. 

On 3/23/2023 at 8:23 PM, Bullheaded said:

Didn't you get a kick out of that Diesel Brothers show on Discovery Channel? They built their motors to roal so much coal, I don't even think they were making any power because the cylinders were so washed with unburnt fuel, LOL

Then it was a big shock to them they got nailed by the EPA and had to pay hundreds of thousands in fines. What did you expect? You put it right there on national tv in front of millions of Libtards!

Like I always say....if you are going to be stupid, or illegal.....be discreet about it.🤣

 

And yes, I had the puff limiter disabled on my 88 R Model.......but I knew how to drive it. So it had response but I didn't lay plumes of smoke. And that was pulling 140,000 pounds it's whole life.

Have it disabled on the 93 full mechanical. On the P7100s is it different? They call it an aneroid ours looked worn out so we blocked it off. No big deal if you're an actual driver and not just a steering wheel holder. Ease on into it and it hardly smokes. Mash it and it'll turn the sky black. 

Definitely has instant response 

On 1/3/2023 at 6:24 PM, masterwelder said:

Dose the series 60 turbo have the angle outlet on the air side like the Mack stock turbo in the 2001 year or do you make or buy an adapter?

The 60 series turbo people refer to isn't the stock 60 series turbo. It's what a lot of the guys put on a Detroit after tuning the ecm. It's a BW S475 (171702). But you do need more fuel to run that turbo with the 1.32 housing. You can also put a 1.15 housing on it. You'd probably enjoy that housing more for better spool up and you really wont lose much on top. Needs bigger injectors to run the 1.32 housing 

That S475 you can get for 650-700

Blixxton on the 99

I would like to do something like that. Or have it mounted on the passenger side mirror. I'd like to get another spotter mirror and mount it on top of the mirror to see if it's putting out a haze on a hard pull. 

29 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

I’m well aware how it works, just saying I understand why you guys knocked the compression down. At the same time too more air with more fuel becomes a blow torch to the pistons and exhaust valves. You got any vids?

I'll have to find the vid I've got one cracking the throttle a few times right after the conversion. It does start a little bit harder with the fixed timing but not that noticable until it reaches about 10 degrees outside. No place to plug in down at the yard. 

31 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Nope you’d have the pyro gauge spinning in circles if you had that big compression with serious fuel and bigger turbo.  That’s amazing you can keep the egt under 1k. Also you’re up in the mountains so that plays a big role in your temps and power too. Are those temps loaded or unloaded? Is there anyway to put something like an air dog or fass 200gph electric fuel pump to feed the injection pump on these?

Temps are loaded. Fan comes on at 195 I believe but I always turn it on at the bottom of a hill. On a really hot summer day it might see 205-210 for a few minutes 

No a FASS won't do anything, the pump is maxed out and you can't get anymore without opening it up and swapping in different barrels/plungers.

Bigger turbo moving more air so less EGT. Timing also plays a role. Advanced will be lower EGT but higher cylinder pressure/temp. Retarded is higher EGT and more boost because it's dumping fuel in later closer to TDC before it fires. 

36 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Nice work, I bet that bitch runs 

It does but the electronic pump flowed more fuel believe it or not. Has slightly less ass than before but we're going to have another pump built. The guy that put together this pump has a core were gonna buy and build one that flows just a tad more, that's all I'll say for now. 

Factory had 16.9:1 pistons and now it has 15.3:1 (that's what the 650 marine engines run) If you ran the high comp 16.9 or 16.5 I don't think it would live very long if you weren't careful. This right now is setup so you can have your foot to the floor and pyro won't go above 950 down around 1350-1400rpm. You really have to work it for the water temp to get to 200. Has a 170 T-stat  

We pull vans around Pa NY NJ home every day 

On 11/28/2022 at 8:58 PM, Onyx610 said:

Let’s see under the hood!

In the process of replacing 4,5,6 injection lines with PAI ones since these new Volvo shitty lines crack every few months. 

I'll take some better pics tomorrow when it's light out. Used a cable and the stock pedal after getting rid of the electronics 

53 minutes ago, JoeH said:

My mechanical 1995 e7-350 makes 33 psi once I replaced the charge air cooler. Had a crack down the right front between the crossover lines and the tank. Used to top out at 25 psi for years, til it started dipping down to 22.  Pyro temps had always been a bit high, wasn't uncommon to push 1200 pulling a hard hill.  Now I'm getting 33 psi and it has to be a long hard hill to hit 1000 on the pyro.

I remember reading that thread. We replaced the CAC about 4 years ago, same symptoms. I'm not surprised the full mechanical 350 makes more boost than vmac 

On 11/30/2022 at 4:20 PM, kevgibbs said:

I'm considering purchasing the stage 2 injectors from rochester diesel for my VMACII E7-400. Has anyone ran these injectors before? Was there a difference in the performance of the engine? I'm running a blixxton module on it at the moment and I'm looking to up the power some more if I can. 

The stage 2 injectors will make a way bigger difference than the blixxton did and really roll out the coal if you mash it between gears 

Yeah we run the stage 2 on a full mechanical. Before we converted it to full mechanical we had the blixxton and those injectors. You'll also need a pyro and a bigger turbo. Your egt's will climb sky high with the stock turbo. 

What year is it and do you know what compression pistons? They had 16.9 16.5 15.7 and 15.3 

Our 93 350 had 16.9:1 from the factory. 591 crown is 16.9:1 some books aren't right with the specs. Our 93 tune up book said 16.5s but when we rebuilt it the pistons were 16.9 and we put 15.3:1 in it 

Also when plugging in the pro link scanner it said it was a 400hp but the valve cover said 350.

A word of advice, don't lug it below 1350-1400 if you want it to last. It will pull hard down to 1200 like a maxidyne but you'll be putting way more stress on the bottom end with that much power. 

And performance wise we were running with this company with 550 cats and they couldn't pull away from us running the same weights. The 500 isx's we walked away from and another guy had a 500 60 series that was just pathetic Lol. Dusted him like he wasn't even there. They had a few cats that were tuned, they were the only ones that could pull away from us but not by much 

On 11/29/2022 at 9:40 PM, JoeH said:

Check your boost, you should be seeing 30+psi stock.  You could be losing power quietly.  Also check your pyro temps, if they're high (1100+) then it's starving for air.

30+ psi on a 350? I don't know about that, could be for the E-tech but the old vmac1-2 was about 24 psi for the 350. 

On 11/28/2022 at 7:38 PM, Mark T said:

How is it I've never seen that red and white one ?.  I see the other one quite a bit.

Unlucky I guess Lol. We've had that one for almost 4 years now. We took it out of service in May to do the trans, rear main and clutch and a few other odds and ends. 

I think I've seen that black CL in your avatar.

I don't think they make it anymore for the E-tech but we have the blixxton tuner on our 99 460. Cost 1400 but it woke it up. If you mash it between gears it throws out smoke the entire length of a 53 footer. Cleans up really quick. 

Actually don't get the Rochester turbo kit. Get a S475, it's also called the 171702. A lot of guys that tune a 60 series will use that turbo. You can get em for 650-700$ genuine Borg Warner. If you feel the 1.32a/r exhaust housing is too laggy you can buy a 1.15 for around 200$ and your throttle response will be instant but it will sacrifice top end breathing 

Idk the stock impeller size for your oem turbo but it's small compared to the 75mm Borg. 

I run that turbo on a fully mechanical E7 with Rochester injectors and the rack opened all the way. I walk all over MP8s and isx's 

On 10/14/2022 at 1:24 PM, jzack said:

Here is a follow up for those who came here on a search for a fix for cracking fuel lines. After going through multiple sets of lines from Mack, all developing cracks in multiple areas, I have since moved on to fuel lines from PAI for the E7. Thier lines actually look like my originals, a full .25" diameter, double nut with vibration damper at the head. So far so good, I'll keep this updated.

Now, with that experience, and an in-frame scheduled for the first week of November, I'm seriously thinking of getting the PAI re-build kit instead of the Muzzle Loader from Mack and probably save some serious money. I've always been a "Mack only" parts guy, but so far, I am very impressed with the PAI fuel lines.

Yeah we went with PAI lines too. Went through 5 lines in less than a year. Those PAI lines are stout 

Rochester diesel makes stage 1/2/3 injectors and a turbo kit if you wanna wake it up. Few guys on here run them 

6 hours ago, Mack superdog said:

Brett thank you I’ve heard e7 should be good for 600hp we had a vision that was a factory 480 therefore they didn’t have that at the limit for hp it could handle there’s room for more 

I would find a mechanical E7 to put in the super liner. Antrim diesel in green castle pa has dyno'd quite a few E7s over the 500 mark. If you want any advice call and ask for Richard. He gave us some advice for building an injection pump.