m16ty

My RD822sx starts on 24v but everything else is 12v. It doesn't have the common series/parallel switch though.

The batteries are wired 24v but it has a 12v tap off the second battery. Both the 12v and 24v power wire runs to the alternator and there is a box on the back of the alternator that charges the batteries at 24v and sends 12v where it needs to go. I was just wondering if anybody has seen this setup before?

When I got the truck, somebody had wired everything up 24v. It blew the regulator in the alternator, most of the light bulbs, and the in-dash solenoid before I figured out what was going on. Luckily, everything else electrical survived. I finally figured something was going on when I was doing a light check and one by one they started going out. There was a battery wiring diagram on the box on the back of the alternator so I knew how the wire the batteries correctly.

When i took the alternator to the rebuild shop, he was able to fix the burnt regulator but said he didn't know anything about the box on the back. He did say the alternator puts out 24v but somehow that box also has 12v coming out of it.

I'll try to get some pics of the box.

It isn't how it is hooked up, but rather the controller itself. The air operated switch in my cab, I engage the pump with the switch still in the "hold" position, then move the switch to "raise" to put pressure in the line. I can go back to "hold" if I need to pause for a moment and back to "raise" as often or as many times as I need to, but as soon as I hit "lower", the PTO disengages from the pump so the pump isn't damaged when the fluid is flowing back to the tank. Figured that was pretty standard.

I'll admit I haven't seen too many that the valve worked off air but I've never seen one work that way. Not saying they don't, I just haven't seen one.

Any pump setups I've seen, the fluid doesn't run back through the pump when in the lower position. It goes through the valve and back to the tank.

Now if your check valve isn't working or you have a pump setup without a check valve, if you depress the clutch with a raised bed and lever in the raise position, the oil will turn the pump backwards and the bed will fall.

Also, the controller should turn the PTO off when you move it to the "lower" position to prevent pump damage.

That may be true but I've never seen one hooked up that way. Not a bad idea though as I've seen pumps burnt up from being left on while the truck goes down the road.

When you engage the PTO, does the engine load up at all? If the coupler is bad, the relief on the pump should open and it will load up the engine when this happens.

I've sen plenty of trucks burn, mostly due to electrical shorts.

With them parked so close, it would be plausible that one caught fire and burned them all.

Reeks of something the Earth Liberation Front does.

Those and the like would be my first suspects.

I'd also look for insurance fraud if the company was in the red. I read the other day that 1/3 of the fracking companies will go bankrupt in the next couple of years if the oil prices stay low.

Looks like raise to me but somebody could have hooked it up different.

Have you confirmed the valve spool on the pump is moving when you move the lever?

If I win something is terribly wrong because I don't own a ticket.

My view is the lottery is a tax on people who are bad at math. I'll tell you who's going to be the big winner whatever the numbers are, the government.

I sometimes fuel up at a market that's in the poorer part of town (because they usually have cheap fuel). The down side to stopping there is you have to wade through all the broke people buying lotto tickets. I've seen people pull in with a barely running beat up car, buy $2 worth of gas, and $20 worth of lotto tickets. It's sad actually.

Your relief in the pump could be messed up or something wrong with the valve. Make sure the linkage going to the valve on the pump is working properly.

On the two line wet kits I install that are only going to be used for a detach, Landoll, and such, I don't even put a control in the cab. I just move the valve spool to the raise (pressure) position and leave it there.

It doesn't take much oil to run a detach. Probably just a couple of gallons but you've got to keep enough oil in the tank as to not create a vortex and suck air through the suction to the pump.

You should be able to convert that PTO to air shift by just removing the shifter on there now and installing the air shift. Or if your're really cheap and have a air cylinder lying around, you could just hook a cylinder to the shift spool you have on there now.

You should also be able to repair that PTO a lot cheaper than buying another one. I suspect somebody has been shifting it without the clutch depressed and has worn the gears.

I don't know for sure what the spacer is for. Sometimes they are put on to just reverse the rotation of the output, other times they are needed mate to the trans gear.

If you fasten that box too rigid in that position, it will break apart in no time. There is too much frame flex in that area.

Take this from somebody that mounted a aluminum hyd tank in a similar fashion. After fixing cracks several times, I finally got wise and moved the tank.

You may get by with a flange clamp with some springs on the bolts. Only issue you might run into is it walking around due to it not being positively fastened.

Yes, you will have to do machine work after metal spraying. More than likely they have a portable machine for this if needed.

I don't think building up with spray metal and machining down would be a problem unless it is really worn. Really all you are doing is holding the inner race of the bearing and there shouldn't be any wear because the race isn't supposed to move. If there is wear there, it's either caused by a bearing failure or running the bearings way too loose.

Hope your not planning on drilling thru the flanges of the chassis to mount the box as this is a no no out here and they wont let your register it once its been done

just saying

Paul

I'd probably drill the battery box and clamp to the flanges.

It's more than likely a Chelsea PTO as they are by far the most popular.

Can you post a pic of it?

Thanx guys. I'll get them hooked up on separate switches. Good point on - if conditions are good for 25 MPH, then I shouldn't need lockers.

I've heard about the "peanuts" in the Mack diffs, but can't find a whole lot of detailed info.

On the trucks I've seen, the peanuts are for locking both rear tandems together, sort of a automatic locking power divider, if you will.

They may also have them for locking the differential side to side but I've never seen it.

It works on a "overrunning clutch" principle. When one tandem starts moving so much faster than the other (as in one tandem in a spin out condition) it will lock both tandems together. When the tires quit spinning it will automatically unlock the tandems.

Here's the place we get all our solid forklift tires- http://www.camso.co/en/home

I don't know if they have a dealer in your area but they are located all over the country. I tried to look for a dealer in your area but their dealer locator doesn't seem to be working right.

After repairs were finished, Purdue University and INDOT experts retroactively inspected weight-in-motion data from a sensor in Merrillville to determine a 58-ton truck had likely caused the damage to the bridge when it crossed sometime in May, Rearick said. Trucks weighing more than 40 tons must receive a permit from the state to ensure the load is properly configured; in this case, a single axle on the truck was bearing nearly 72,000 pounds, Rearick said.

How in the world can a truck grossing 116,000lb have 72,000lb on one axle?

Something just doesn't seem right about that. Makes you wonder if the scales were malfunctioning.

Everybody just needs to go ahead and get your FFL.

In the past, it was pretty hard to get a FFL without a storefront. If they want to require anybody that sells a few guns get a FFL, they are going to have to let anybody that wants one get one.

Yeah, it's before the transfer pump and works on vacuum. Any blocked filters or lines and hopefully this gauge will let me know about it.

It has an air restraint gauge too.

I haven't seen either of them move since I've been in the truck.

If the air restriction gauge isn't working, make sure you're line isn't broken as it will let contaminates into the intake. Should be running to a tapped port on the air intake between the air filter and the turbo.

I know I'm running behind but I finally dug out the T2100 PTO.

If worse comes to worse, you can always just pull drum hub and all.

Most any drum that has any mileage at all will have a lip on the edge from wear.

I'm nowhere near you and this is the first time I've ever seen a engine like that but I would love to take a crack at getting it going. I just like oddballs and trying to figure out how stuff works.

As has already been said, all you need is fuel, compression, and a properly timed Spark and that thing should run.

I don't know who sung it but when I was a kid I liked the song White Night. It as about a smokey that would trick truckers on the CB into speeding so he could throw them in jail. The smokey's handle was "White Night".