66rmack

You guys have some very cool tools!

Winter weather is on its way as we know it. What do you guys have in the arsenal to remove the white stuff?

Here is my winter weather defender.  96 f350 7.3 powerstroke. Boss 9.2 v plow. I redid the body a couple years ago. But it's just a oldish workhorse For me to beat on.

Stone guard. It works very well. It's made just for that comes in a spray can and its paintable. It's made more for rockers and the bottoms of fenders but it should work well in the fenders.

On November 9, 2016 at 5:32 PM, ranchhopper said:

Next project is to get a small wire welder and set it for just welding aluminum I'm going to make some diamond plate battery boxes I can make some extras and sell them to where I work to help pay for the welder.

I had a set made at my work they turned out nice except I had to grind the diamond bumps to get the mount to bolt flat to the front of the cover. 

Yeah idk the guy I got it from may have put it on. But I'm not sure.

Thank you for the info. I wish people were honest now a days. It would have been nice to know when I bought them that they actually are 38's. Not that it makes a difference to me I still would have bought it. And if I'm not mistaken the tapperleaf is a 34k. Thanks guys and sorry for the incorrect info.

1 hour ago, terry said:

Doesn't a full 44.000 have a brass trunnion bushing? Not a split rubber trunnion.    terry

To be honest I have no idea? I am new to this and was told it was 44k 

And the taper

I have cutoff off a 99 Mack ch. complete minus front dif and axle shafts hub piloted.  The rear axle is complete and has 4:35 gears the trunion is in great shape. That's what I bought it for. It also has 38k camel back a couple springs are broke on one side but I have the replacement springs for the broken ones. It's taking up valuable space in the shop. Would like gone. $500 is what I payed for it. Will get pics if any interest. That's what I'd like to get for it but its negotiable. 

I also have a taperleaf setup. Out of a 89 superliner. The trunion is cracked but the leaves and other parts look to be in good shape. Would like to sell as a rolling unit. I will take the trunion out and sell it complete with the axels and difs. It has 4:42 gears but the rear dif broken. Stud piloted housings are good. Make offer.

If interested message me on here. Thank you. We ended up buying a complete cutoff with a newway air ride setup.

3 hours ago, ranchhopper said:

Got things wet sanded today I was going to just buff it all out until I looked in the paint cabinet and found two unopened gallons of clearcoat and an unopened can of clearcoat hardner from a 37 chevy project a few years ago. I did the straps and tank I think they came out good enough I'm not going to wet sand and buff the clearcoat out its pretty clean for doing it in the driveway by the shop the pits in the aluminum where the strap goes can easily be seen in the first picture because of the glossy surface.

 

Love it, keep up the great work!

1 hour ago, BillyT said:

66r there were a lot of those made are you sure you've exhausted all avenues for the wheel boxes I just got the new Hemmings I'll get back to you.I would normally " rag on you for the lack of a third pedal" but you paid your dues on the B model! I know the automatics have been faster since the 60s!😁

That would be awesome if you would look for me. I hear you, it's reverse patern with a manual valve body and push button overdrive if that makes it better. The only reason it has 2 pedals is for the wife. She isn't great with a manual and she can't handle my "criticism" teaching her how... I want her to have fun in the car. It's going to be set up for more road racing than drag racing.

17 hours ago, j hancock said:

Manders is in MN might be able to help you.   http://mandersdiesel.com/

Thanks I called them for some other things and was not pleased by the service I received. So I am trying to avoid them.. Lol prob won't be able to though.

I'm looking for rear drive housing with gears for my 89 superliner. 4.42 gears with an aluminum housing. I have a steel one but I decided I want the front and rear the same. Any help would be greatly appiciated. Thank you. -Pete

11 hours ago, 41chevy said:

There are no outers made for the Fairlane or Comet. Try Mustang or there are 67 T bird outer patch panels.

I figured that was the case. ( sad face ) oh well it's just a lil more work to modify the others. What's a lil more work, right?

11 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Old guy here- I assume that is a Windsor? Seems like most of the Windsor blocks I see advertised are like 377? 378? 406?

I can relate to Fairlanes however, ordered a new 428 CJ Torino, C-6 in 68.  It was an unusual notchback-most were fastbacks.  4:30 rears and it would upshift 2nd gear rubber with ease.  And about 12 -13 mpg!

Yup Windsor. It's a 4.040" bore  with a 4" stroke and a 6.250 rod length.  I can't wait to get it to the point of hearing it run.

9 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Nice -and the power train will be???

410w efi with a 4r70w 

Thanks guys but I have the quarters and the inner wheel wells, I am looking for the outer. The wheel wells are two piece inner and outer I can't seem to find to find the outers. I may have to modify mustang ones.

Not a truck, but a car. So I have this car and I am trying to find outer wheel houses. I have the inner ones but am having trouble finding the outers. I was wondering if anyone on here may be able to help me out finding them. I am building a restomod. I love the old look of the car, but drum brakes and poor suspension is not my cup of tea. So I put 4wheel disc brakes in it tubular a-arms with double adj. coil overs. I also put in a custom triangulated 4 link. I have done nothing to the body. The guy I bought it from botched the quarter patches so I am going to put full skins on it.

17 hours ago, Timmyb said:

From the chalk line to back of chassis is about 120cm. About 50 inches. 

Somebody cut the end of the truck off already andi can get about 28" if I slide it back to the end of the frame. 

Thanks everyone for your insights I think I am going to lead by your example. It seams like a no brainier to me. I wish it would be a bit longer but with the splice right there I'll never have to worry about the splice.

8 hours ago, Timmyb said:

I've pulled my ass end apart and yeah mine has been extended at some stage. As the rest have said, it was joined between the trunnion bolts and had some frame inserts added. 

As for the crack in the flange, I hope it turns out to be an easy fix. Would be a lot easier to fix that and add on the end. 

The crack is an easy fix. It's not bad at all. The back of the frame is cut short, short enough that there isn't room for mud flaps. I can move the trunion to the back that will give me a 210-215" wheelbase not exactly what we're looking for but it would def be better than it is right now. Maybe that's what we will do.

The frame is solid but there is a crack on the flange so I wanted to cut it there. 60" is what we want to add to it.

So we have the superliner and we plan on stretching the wheel base and we bought a cut off that ended up being the wrong frame dimension. But I found a 88 superliner in the junk yard they want $18 a foot for frame rail. So I guess my ? Is is it worth it to buy the cab back so I only put one cut in the frame. Or is it not a big deal to have two splices? I like the idea of getting from the cab back cause our truck needs a trunion but I am looking for other people's experiance.