Elitedownunder

I don't know but will have a look tomorrow.

Hi, my old 1994 CLR Elite 454VMAC1 and 18 sp T2180.....driving a few hundred kms yesterday I noticed that when shifting from low to high with the selector it then coasts in neutral, I can hear the shift working but nothing. It is fine moving around in 1st to 4th it is only when I move the selector to high. I did replace the rubber boot before heading out on this trip and took the lever out and cut the lines before putting it back together ( I now know how to push the end connectors up and pull to remove) any ideas other then this.

mine is doing the same thing 94 CLR 454 VMAC it is a 18 speed T2180 and the shifter ( when moving from low to high you can hear engage) but the box remains in neutral... I hate to think it is what KT engineer is saying, any other diagnostics to rule out everything else? Without a book for this I don't know what the air solenoid is moving ?

Thanks guys was the turbo gasket at manifold.

Guys, My E7 454 VMAC is running quite well now after the other problems were sorted but now it makes a tweeting noise when you push the accel and the boost comes in then if you back it off or coast under boost no noise but push the boost and its a TWEETING noise kinda like a whistle. Any thoughts?

thanks guys all good now, as rags were blocking the flow in the intercooler.

found rags in the intercooler blocking the flow, all good now with heaps of manifold pressure...thanks guys

if it was the turbo surely there would be some damage or bearing noise, though you maybe right... I will try by-passing the intercooler and see how it goes...see if there is any pressure coming from the turbo.

Full rebuild so all of the above, but I set up the pump with the ab kent Moore black box.......can I still be wrong?

Hey guys, Yes still no joy and don't think it is the inter cooler, no exhaust brake dickbuick...though it has a spark arrestor on it but I removed the exhaust so it was a straight though pipe and made no difference. I am looking at pump and injectors I think.

Even taking the filter out as there is only one main filter, so there is no restriction it still sucks in the hose. Anyway I am out of money now to continue.... but I should be able to pressure test this intercooler myself with some couplings.

Yes, could be, Gearhead is right as I was saying the same if air is being forced into the intercooler it should expand the hoses not collapse...though I may have found the problem with this intercooler, will have to have it pressure tested but I want to stick a borescope down into it to see if a rag did not get sucked down.

I have also damaged the fins and rails on the intercooler when I removed it with the fork.

I notice that the inter cooler hoses on the turbo side (or as the U.S call it hot side) both hoses tend to collapse as if being suck in when over 1200 revs is this normal or does it sound like a restriction is caught up?

What do I check on the turbo....there is a weep of oil going into the intercooler, and should the manifold gauge move when revved or only when under load? I have checked the line from the manifold and when I blow into it the gauge reacts. The line to the compressor is clear and its sucking or blowing from the manifold. I have attached pics of the turbos OEM plate and also another pic of the motor.

Guys, Just had a rebuild on my 94 CLR E7 454 VMAC1 runs sweet until you put your boot into it and the black smoke is awful. How do I stop this from occurring? The pump to engine timing was set up at 10 BTDC and with the use of the A/B black box. This motor spun a bearing but I did notice a day prior it started blowing the black smoke. I have checked all restrictions and even bypassed the spark arrestor (so a straight out pipe), still the same. I think my pump is a P7100 series Bosch but I am not sure and have added a pic of the plate. Any thoughts on how to solve this?

now if I can stop it over fuelling (blowing heaps black smoke) timing must be right as I set it up with the A/B box and set at 10 BTDC...what else would I look at to confirm then adjust??

Hey guys, well I removed the box and found I had the plates ass about, so reversed them and just like a new one. Also I removed the V20 pump for the P/S and found I had reversed the rotation, anyway all good now. I really appreciate the Help and views.

had another go at adjusting and all looks fine with 1/2" between clutch bearing and brake and fork fingers adjustment is good also. I did move the vehicle with revs and meshing and using clutch as once the foot is down (clutch brake engaged you can feel the motor labour) but still will not engage but moving back and forwards a few times with revs and mesh the new ceramic plates were smoking some...??

If someone could post pics of their piping to make sure mine is correct, as I do not know what side the pressure is on these vane set ups...mine is the V20F 1P11P 38D 6H 22L

Truck shop and FJH thanks guys, still no joy and will have to split the box soon as running out of time, and yes the wood virtually fell out once torqued also I have correct spacings but will not let go. My clutch fork is underslung but does the same thing. Will try again tomorrow before splitting it. Thanks for the ideas. WIll let you know what I find. Also anyone know anything about the Vickers pumps for power steering as its all piped back up after the rebuild but nothing even after bleeding and jacking and bleeding.

So have I, but this was eased in ..... so what help did you want to add to this thread?

Hey guys thanks for the feedback I appreciate it. Truck shop the plates were put in the correct way around as per the writing on the plate, the spigot bearing was replaced and the dummy shaft aligned it all. The input shaft was not changed but did have some surface rust on it that I cleaned up, Last thing I did was knock in all of the pins, I did have the flywheel machined but only enough to remove some surface rust and Mack provided myself with this clutch which is the same as the one that came out. Once again I appreciate it...last thing I want to do is split the box from the motor.Though truck shop may be right and I have bent a disc forcing it in. Thanks guys

Hi Guys, I hope someone can help me out as I have just finished a full rebuild on my 94 CLR VMAC1 454 18 speed, runs like new but, the new Eaton 15.5 clutch I put in will not disengage when operated. I have adjusted the clutch correctly but will not disengage and then readjusted it right off but still no joy....any ideas???? When marrying the engine and gearbox it was a struggle going in and had to use longer bolts to bring them together, though was successful. So any thoughts????

Im am buying a in chassis rebuild kit and they want the GBA, and I have asked the question where I get this GBA from...is GBA a MACK casting number?