vanscottbuilders

This story isn't just sad because the truck was stolen - that's bad enough by itself.

It's also sad because of the social statement the whole affair makes.

The fact that stealing and selling someone's property has become so commonplace

and is widely considered to be acceptable behavior in our society is remarkable.

This really reinforces those people who are prone to being paranoid!

They have good reason after hearing these stories.

And, just for further irritation -

When did all of the sub-standard performance that is produced by the government,

and all of it's employees, including the police departments, become acceptable??

If the officers involved here had been even a little alert, this probably would have a different outcome.

Somehow, we have all forgotten that those government employees, every single one of them, works for us.

Is poor performance, bad behavior and questionable ethics going to be OK with us?

TIME TO WAKE UP AMERICA!!!!!!!!!

I'm sorry for your loss,

and even more sorry that it happens everywhere, everyday.

Paul Van Scott

Herb,

I'm going to have to go check the engine stamping. I'm starting to doubt myself.

It's tough getting old! I used to be able to remember this stuff.

The engine is in my shop, and on a test stand.

I bought it from a large quarry, stone, and concrete company here.

It was one of their spare engines and has a zero mile Mack factory rebuild.

The engine data is readily available.

I don't believe the intercooler has been changed.

I'll get the info ASAP.

Unfortunately, this engine has a crack in the cooling jacket area of the block.

Apparently it was stored with water in it. No sign of any other damage, and no

water in the oil. I think it can be fixed. But I'm going to have to keep this one for

my own use. It'll make a great engine in one of my projects.

Thanks,

Paul VS

Herb,

Is the ETZ-675 a 237 hp engine, or is it a 285 hp engine?

My ETZ-675 has the air & water intercooler with the tip turbine,

and it is completely different than any of the older 237's I've had.

The vintage mentioned here of 1979 makes sense, as my own is a 1980 engine,

and sounds like it is the same thing.

I've had a little difficulty finding much info about this particular series of engine

from Mack, as it was apparently replaced after only a fairly short production run.

Anything you might know about it would be helpful.

The rumors from the local operators are that this engine was one of Mack's best.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

There may be some restrictions on using the original copper air lines.

I don't know that to be a fact so you might want to check with your local DOT

before going any further.

If a vehicle is licensed as an antique or "historical", the restrictions may not apply.

Just a thought -

Paul Van Scott

Rick,

Nice to have you back online.

Yours is one of the nicest detailed resto projects we have here!

It'll be really nice to see it done.

Paul Van Scott

James,

The data plate is the best way to confirm the engine model, obviously.

But - if I were to guess, I think that is an ETZ-675 of some ilk.

It could very well be a 300 hp engine, or a 285 hp. Either way,

it is a tip-turbine intercooled intake system. And judging by the

rocker covers, it is two valve engine.

A good Mack motor authority might find this opinion all wrong -

so I would try the data plate again. There are also some imprinted

numbers on the casting ahead of the fuel pump, I think, that will bear this out.

If we can get Rob engaged here, we will get an answer quickly.

Paul Van Scott

John,

You may have already done this, but -

a call to the Mack Museum probably would yield

some pretty good information.

Look elsewhere on this site for the address and contact info.

By way of protocol - We do support the Museum with donations,

when we ask for information.

Good luck - sounds like an interesting project.

Paul Van Scott

The build sheets that I have show the axle weight ratings and

the gross vehicle weights on the 1st page of the order near the

bottom. I checked two of them to be sure.

I just got the State of New York to accept that info, with the Museum

logo on the cover sheet as good enough info to license the old girl.

I didn't have any paperwork or registration for the truck. But I had

my Museum copies................

Seemed pretty lucky to run into a rational minded DMV person,

who was willing to listen to reason by actually reading the factory

build sheet!!

Who says New York is all bad????????

The replies here that say the axle model numbers are on the sheet

are correct too. And a Mack dealer can take those model numbers and

get you a lot of information on the units, including the weight ratings,

bearing and seal info, kingpin info etc.

Good Stuff!

Paul Van Scott

Personally, I think it might be a whole lot simpler to trade the

manual box for an air shift unit.

You are going to put lots and lots of time and effort into a questionable project.

Been there - done that too many times!!

Paul Van Scott

Mike,

We are planning to have one of Jimmy's W-900's in the show - it's in

the paint shop now. It's big, it's blue with a white Seminole paint design,

and it has a 3408 Caterpillar engine, that I'm pretty sure he will be showing off

to anyone who even glances sideways at it!

It will probably be carrying one IH Emeryville for a friend of ours, and potentially,

our antique Walthers Sno-Fighter.

I will be flying down probably Thursday and staying Friday and Saturday,

leaving early Sunday morning for home.

If the weather doesn't allow our flight, we will drive down with about the same

schedule.

I know Kevin All will be there with couple of his trucks also.

As we get closer - if you want to try to pick a meeting spot onsite, I think a lot

of members might be interested. Maybe not so much to plan an event, but a place

to meet one another and come and go as everybody pleases.

(At Macungie, we might use Watt's Mack's booth, for example)

Hope to see everyone there.

Paul Van Scott

Factory Five Racing, one of the industry's finest kit car manufacturers' can no longer sell their cars in Massachusetts, although they are based in Wareham, Ma. unless the engine and driveline for the car is from a registered "donor car".

If you buy a new crate engine or transmission, you need to find a new state for registry.

Seems you need to vote for a Republican state government and kick out the liberals and free-spending Democrats who seem to think they know way more than you and feel the need to tell you so!

It's really gotten way out of hand, and it's time for every one of us, as Americans, to stand up and take our country back.

Enough of the "Law of the Week" mentality.

Paul Van Scott - and Proud to be American!

Trent,

The Bendix manual (available online) has several diagrams that outline brake systems

for a multitude of different uses. (straight truck, single or tandem axles, trailers etc.).

The diagrams are available in color, if you have a color printer. That makes life a lot easier,

if you are planning modifications.

They provide a good starting point and give you the valve names and part numbers.

It's probably the simplest way to go, and still get a properly designed system.

You can easily eliminate the plumbing for your front brakes per the diagram.

Good Luck.

Paul Van Scott

After shopping on the Internet - and finding prices and manufacturers from all over the world,

I found the most consistant and competitive prices on genuine Bendix valves from the local FleetPride store.

And they have access to most of the valves as "reconditioned" which saves some money too.

Note that the part number may change if the unit is reconditioned by someone other than Bendix.

Good Luck, and avoid any off brand (read "Chinese") imitations. They are everywhere.

Paul Van Scott

Interesting concept - opening the cowl vent to slow down!

Probably a reasonably cheap approach to auxiliary braking.

As I understand it, TEC Brake makes a kit that is designed for all

two valve Mack diesel 6 cylinder engines. I have one that is brand new,

and I checked the instructions that come with the kit. They don't really say.

Barry at Watt's Mack should be able to confirm the compatability with the

237 Maxidyne, but I believe that the TEC brake will work on that motor.

I was told when I purchased the brake that it was designed for the 673, 711,

and two valve Maxidyne engine series.

The TEC Brake kit is essentially a duplicate of the original Jacobs brake that

is now out of production. I understand that most, if not all, of the parts are

interchangeable, although I cannot confirm this to be true.

Best to talk to Barry. They have access to these brakes in limited quantity.

Paul Van Scott

Tony,

Call or e-mail Kevin All at All Macks (K-All here on the BMT site) for an original air horn set up.

As a general rule -

Macks, Autocars and Brockways were really mostly East Coast trucks in the 30's, 40's and 50's, being made in Pennsylvania and New York.

The Peterbilts and Kenworths were the popular West Coast trucks, and both were made in western states.

The Midwest had Internationals and Diamond-T's.

Each of the manufacturers catered to their particular market needs, hence the short B-67 or single axle H-63 for the restrictive East Coast length laws,

or the "concave" back cab panels etc. for the same reason.

Meanwhile Peterbilt and Kenworth made trucks with long hoods to fit generally bigger power for mountain use. Clessie Cummins developed the first engine brakes for mountain use, and diesel power was used more out west for the long climbs. (Although they also used the massive Hall-Scott gas engines too)

Eventually of course, it all blended together as the highways improved and interstate traffic became commonplace.

There were many, many good truck manufacturers of note, but Mack, Brockway, Autocar, Peterbilt, and Kenworth seem to be the most geographically distinct brands that we most often hear of.

That's today's history lesson.

Get your truck done - and show it off out there!

Paul Van Scott

A round trip on a dedicated trailer is normally $2.00/mile or more each way.

Someone coming North empty will do the job for much less, but may be hard to find.

Obviously you probably need a lowboy or a low step deck trailer.

As Rob said - getting on a brokeage site will help a lot.

When you post your ad - be sure to include the vehicle dimensions, particularly the

height overall and the bumper to bumper length. Weight is also good info, if you can

get it accurately.

The ATHS National Show in Huntsville, Al. might present some opportunity for you to get on

someone's half empty trailer coming toward you. Check it out.

Paul Van Scott

You need to talk to Doug Fetterly in Harrisville, NY.

He has both plain steel and polished stainless steel original style B model bumpers

and the grille protector kits in stock.

Sorry for the lack of contact info - but if you call information for the 315 area code

and ask for Doug Fetterly you will get a number. (I think it's South Shore Road, Harrisville, NY)

For a good used bumper try Kevin All at All Macks. (K-all on this site)

I don't know where you are located but, If you were going to Macungie,

either one of those guys might deliver you one to the show, if you ask.

Paul Van Scott

Larry,

It looks like the early R model front axle has just the right brackets for

mounting tube type shocks on the B model.

I'll know in a few days. If it works, it will be a pretty easy fix with parts

available pretty readily.

I'll keep you posted.

Paul VS

Thanks guys,

Larry, I made new rods too. Made from "U-bolt" stock and just threaded the ends like the originals.

Matt Pfahl had some NOS ends, so I bought what I needed from him. Then I realized that taking apart

the friction units might not be too smart without some advice.

I'll try one and report back now that I may not really need them.

I like Rob's idea, and I'm going to try it on this truck. It looks like the axle mount for the original shock rod

might work for the lower telescoping shock mounting without much modification. Although to use it - I may

need to build a bracket that holds the shock away from the frame by a couple of inches. I'm going into the

shop this afternoon to study the R-600 axle. It has tube type shocks from the factory, and it uses a top bracket.

With the new king pins, springs, radial tires, air ride rear and new front shocks, this truck should drive pretty well.

I might just quit driving cars!! (and I might have to - if I keep dumping money into the truck!)

Paul VS

Tony,

Two small observations for you -

A) You are moving at tremendous speed for a part-time restoration project.

A professional shop would require a year or more to finish that truck.

Give yourself a little credit. You started with little or no truck knowledge, you

have no shop and no steady help. I would say you are doing very well indeed.

Your cab, based on the photos you sent me, isn't going to require that much surgery.

Rust is a fact of life in fifty year old vehicles. The steel in the Mack cab is excellent.

Welding is a pleasure on the old truck, once you get back to clean metal.

And you live in Hot Rod Heaven; there has to be somebody out there who can bring

that cab back to life reasonably.

The crowd's appreciation of the old truck is pretty normal at car shows. The trucks are unique,

and seem to bring out the best in people from all walks of life.

Keep plugging, and we will share your pain, if we can share the glory too!!

Paul Van Scott

NICE JOB KEVIN!!

It looks even better than I expected it would!

Paul VS

I need to repeat my request - Hasn't anyone ever taken one of these apart?

And has anyone built brackets and installed tube type shocks on a B model front axle?

Thanks,

Paul VS

This truck will be an absolute blast for you guys.

I hope to be able to see the final version in person.

BTW - have you considered an electric fan for the radiator?

Might provide a little more useable power for the truck.

Paul VS

Has anyone ever had one of the B model front axle hydraulic shock dampeners apart?

I'm tempted to try rebuilding the ones on my B-67. One of them feels pretty raspy,

and the other one is just flopping up and down. The raspy one bent the connecting rod

before I took the truck apart, so I'm pretty sure it's not right.

I've got new connecting rod assemblies made up, but reluctant to install them unless

I know that the shock units are OK.

I don't find blow-ups or descriptions of these in my B model Mack Service Manual.

Is there a rebuild kit? Or is it better just to find some good original ones? Or could we

fab up tube type shock mounts and be done with the problem?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Rob,

Check in the older "for sale" forums.

I have a couple photos of my 1966 R-600 instrument panel.

If they aren't good enough - PM me and tell me what you want,

and I'll get them to you ASAP.

Paul VS