vanscottbuilders

Pretty sad indeed.

But if more of us get informed and involved, we can fix the problem.

I am getting a sense that the Obama flame could dim before the election.

There have been way too many promises, and way too much "trying to please

everybody" that I think something has to give.

Most people are pretty impressionable, but they are not stupid. Some of them

are starting to wake up.

We don't have a great candidate in McCain, but I think we have a sincere,

basically honest and patriotic American. And we have the hottest VP ever!!

Not only hot - but smart and concerned about the people.

All we have to do is get the word out, and get everyone we talk to into the

voting booth.

Bob,

You might try Mack for the windshield and rear window

rubber with the lock strip.

And I've found Watts to be pretty fair, with great service too.

You didn't happen to make a note of where you found that

wing window rubber did you?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

I hope this is what it takes to stop the Obama railroad!!

If nothing else - Sarah might bring out some of those people

who don't normally vote.

And - as a last resort - we might sign up Rob's "Momma"!

Paul VS

B Mack windshield and door glass is pretty easy to get cut.

Any good auto/truck glass supplier should be able to provide it.

It's flat glass, and the windshield sides are interchangeable, so a

good template will work for both sides. The door glass pieces are also

interchangeable from side to side, so same story.

If making templates doesn't work for you, Watt's Mack has replacement

glass, I believe.

The cost isn't bad at all compared to a curved windshield piece.

You will probably also need new rubber for the windshields, and

most lokely you'll need new rubber and felts for the side windows.

Hopefully you can save the wing window rubbers. They must be made

of gold, judging by the cost for replacement.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

You might try Desser Tire or contact Matt Pfahl for info on the

correct tire type for the heavy duty B models.

I'd like to know more about that truck as you make progress.

Perini did a large highway project here in Rochester, NY a

few years ago.

Good Luck.

Paul Van Scott

Rob -

I've meant to say something to you for some time -

Jimmy spent about twenty years and close to a million miles

behind a DD 12V-71 with twin turbochargers in a W-900 Kenworth.

I can give you his e-mail, and his phone # if you want. I'm sure he'd

talk your ear off about the various characteristics of the engine in heavy use,

and the common problems he encountered along with the solutions he used.

The project seems to progressing through the "design & planning" stage nicely.

Paul Van Scott

Glad to know I'm not alone in my home criticism.

Thanks Rob- I didn't know about the difference in shutter count.

Are the headlight panels the same in the whole B-model line with the

radiator shell vs. the exterior hard tank style?

And the radiator is the same (at least it looks like it in the photo) as my B-diesel radiators.

This looks like a nice piece.

Paul VS

I love these really big trucks and the even bigger loads of logs.

There are some great pictures of huge log loads around.

Probably not many of the really, really big trees left.

They built our country.

Paul Van Scott

If the TEC brake won't work (call Barry),

you might try a PAC exhaust brake, which could

be very effective on this engine, and a lot simpler

to install.

We've had some real good discussions on this forum about

exhaust brakes. I think the long and the short of it is that

the valve train needs to be healthy before installing the brake

or you run the risk of piston/valve contact, which is rarely good.

Paul Van Scott

I'm no expert - but you don't seem to be getting much help with your question -

so I'll wing it.

The front sheet metal appears to be from a small B model. (B-20, B-42, B-52 etc.)

It probably is interchangeable with the B-61 and B-67, though I really have never tried it.

The radiator support, radiator and shell are fairly common - but don't forget -

new ones cannot be had, so they do have a value.

The ornamentation looks pretty straight, and is indeed getting harder to come by in good condition.

This looks like it might use rechroming to be show quality, which is very expensive.

The passenger side headlight panel is pretty nice. The driver's side needs some work, obviously.

Now for the really big guess,

I might ask $250.00 or $300.00 for the parts, with the offer to palletize and assist with loading on

a freight carrier's truck. The buyer should pay shipping. Someone, somewhere probably really needs it.

The worst that can happen is no one buys it, and you rethink.

If possible to do, I think these things sell better at a show where we can see and touch the part.

Retailers call it "impulse buying". Our wives call it something else entirely different.

Good Luck.

Paul Van Scott

Call Barry at Watt's Mack. If the engine is a two valve Mack diesel,

they have a TEC brake for it. TEC makes a duplicate of the Jacobs

engine brake for these engines. Jacobs brakes are out of production for them.

If it's an R-400 with a Scania diesel, however, the TEC brake may not be the answer.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

Definitely go to the OldMacksRUs site for a ton of info.

In a nutshell, the B model Mack was among the "post war" improved

trucks. It was a new design and used air brake systems still in use today.

All the things you are familiar with are in the truck with the possible exception

of spring brakes (Maxi brakes), although many have been added to the old trucks.

There were two primary braking types available, wedge brakes and cam operated

"S" cam brakes. (Cam brakes are more desireable)

Power steering was an option, and quite often the trucks do not have it. Radial tires

certainly help that situation a lot.

As per Mack's reputation for toughness, the trucks typically were way overbuilt, oversprung,

and underpowered. What they lacked in raw torque and horsepower, they made up for with gears.

Transmissions in combinations up to 20 forward speeds were common. Rear end ratios typically in

the high 4.00's to mid 5.00's were most common, with ratios into the 9.00's on very heavy duty off

road trucks.

Truck drivers were definitely much smaller then, as the cabs are not exactly spacious. But they feel

like an old shoe. Very comfortable.

As for pulling modern trailers - why not? Depending on the job, you might consider more power.

It's pretty common for a later Maxidyne engine of some ilk to be retro-fit. Some folks think it's best

to swap the transmissions out also. I don't necessarily agree. "Drive it like you own it", and you shouldn't

have any issue.

The most common of the original diesels was a END673, which, depending on the year, made something aound

170 to 180 horsepower. A Dodge pick up with a Cummins makes a lot more than that! The same engine was turbo-

charged, which made it up to a whopping 250 hp. But - don't forget those gears. These old trucks moved an awful

lot of America, one load at a time.

This is an antique that you can use. It will turn heads and makes a great promotional tool for your business.

Guys here on this forum use the B models to pull race car haulers, lowboys, dump trucks and all sorts of

other uses. You just cannot lose sight of the fact that the newest B model was built about 43 years ago.

So - the message is - Jump in, the water's fine.

Paul Van Scott

Steve,

Anybody with a 48' or longer drop deck flat trailer can move this truck, provided it rolls.

A typical 48' drop deck has about 38' on the low section of the trailer.

Any Landoll or similar hydraulic trailer will do the job too, albeit probably at a higher rate.

Look for small or independent operators who might want to make some weekend cash.

Trucks today are worth about $100./hr. for custom work, at the low end of the scale.

Check in with local flat load brokers or your local ATHS chapter for references.

Good luck.

Paul Van Scott

Pretty talented guy - I'd say.

Do you think it was his first time?

Paul Van Scott

Ducky -

Where are you finding these repair panels?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

I think that the Mack Museum might be able to help you also.

Paul Van Scott

John,

The fuel problem could be a number of things, but the hunch that an exhaust valve may be stuck, or worse, broken, is probably not a bad idea. Likely a valve spring, if anything is truly amiss.

I agree with Rob in that the truck could use some fairly close monitored running to get "some heat in the exhaust".

This might mean a loaded condition for an hour or more at working RPM's.

Have you checked for any unusual noise from a stethoscope through the valve train?

I drove over Grand Island last week, and somehow missed the big green Mack. Thought for sure it

would be out on the streets.

Let us know how you make out with the Cummins.

Paul Van Scott

A while back, I think here on this forum,

someone mentioned that a Canadian company

made R model cab parts. The report, as I remember,

was not too favorable with regard to the quality of

the parts.

Take a look at the old posts (Spring 2008), and I

think you'll find the info.

Paul Van Scott

If you check out oldmacksrus.com, Tom Gannaway

has done a great job of detailing all of the older transmission

gear ratios. This might give you a better understanding of why

an overdrive triplex gearbox is used as a 13 spd. vs. a 15 spd.

I don't think that the triplex TRT-720 was ever available with a

Maxidyne engine, so the R-600 must be a fairly early production truck.

I could be wrong about that little factoid - but I'm certain that

someone will correct me if I am.

I do know that a lot of guys use them behind their Maxidynes,

even though the gearbox isn't torque rated as high as the engine.

One good line I heard was "You just have to shift it like you own it!"

In terms of use-ability, the TRT-720 is one of the best older transmissions

for use as a "play truck". Good road speed and good pulling power with

the older, low torque/low horsepower engines and generally low final drives.

Yet it doesn't have the weight of the bigger quadraplex boxes.

Paul Van Scott

You can try a carrier like a flat trailer company.

The downside is that you will have to wait for a truck that has room,

and is headed in your direction. That combination might not happen

for a long time.

And my own experience with independent carriers is that they are

less than reliable with the smallest, lowest paying part of the load.

I'm actually surprised at quotes for $1,000.00, I think that's pretty

reasonable for a 2,000# pallet to be moved about 1,500 miles at a time

when diesel is up around $5.00/gallon.

I doubt if you can drive a pick-up from Minnesota to western Wyoming

and back for $1,000.00 today.

A common carrier makes a business out of picking up and delivering

individual packages to and from any address. Your engine can be

tracked so it doesn't get lost, and somebody will take responsibility

for damages, if required.

There is always a possibility that, if you don't have a commercial shipper's

account with a carrier like Yellow Freight, Con-Way or UPS, you might use a

friend's account number to get the commercial discount, which is substantial.

That could sweeten the pot.

Unless you know someone who might be coming across Rte.80 going east,

and can pick up your engine - I don't think you can beat the common carrier.

Good Luck.

Paul Van Scott

If somebody is showing for originality, these probably won't work.

But for all of the rest of us - they look great.

Got any pricing Barry, and are you thinking of the model number

badges also? (B61, B67 etc.)

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Thanks for putting up the link Barry,

I enjoyed these pictures a lot.

Paul Van Scott

I paid about 1,100.00 for all four corners on the B-67

about six months ago.

That was with new bushings, center bolts, u-bolts and

of course, new leaves and tax.

You'll like that air ride a lot. Probably give up driving your car!

Paul Van Scott

My B-67 had what I thought looked like real good springs

on all four corners.

Took the springs to be serviced and they found three cracked

leaves and the center bolt holes were all oblong and rusted badly.

From the outside everything looked fine.

My point is -

Don't monkey around with the springs, especially if you plan to

drive the truck at all. They are fairly cheap and pretty critical.

Also I would recommend the ACE "Super Ride" air ride crossmember for all

those single axle rough riders out there.

Simple install, reasonable price and uses your original springs.

I know it's not as cheap as cutting down the stack to three leaves,

but it actually rides better and won't break on a rough road.

FreightTrain - pretty good thinking using the 5th wheel mount to

get yourself home. You're a perfect candidate for that ACE system - you haul

your trailer a lot. Just the wear and tear you would save would be worth the price.

Paul Van Scott

I have a 1966 R-600 with the original END711-NA and it runs great.

It does have the later fire ring type head gaskets.

Horsepower and torque are greater than the END673-NA.

Check in with OldMacksRus.com for more info on the

exact numbers.

I think you will like the swap, especially with more gear

possibilities.

Paul Van Scott