vanscottbuilders

Hey Paul. Glad to hear its moving forward.

On adding pics..........

Look below the box you type in, you'll see a "manage current attachments". There is a box that you can "browse" your computer for pictures and upload them into your post.

I think that the problem has to be the Google Picasa photo holding system.

I will take some current pictures and try my old Kodak Easy Share system. Never had any trouble with it. And it's a local company for me.

Paul VS

These are some early photos of my B-67 restoration. Please forgive the photo quality.

Oh well - I guess I still don't know how to post photos. Seem to have a mental block, or a lack of mental capacity.

At least it is a pretty good description of where I am at with the truck.

Paul VS

These are some early photos of my B-67 restoration. Please forgive the photo quality.

The truck, originally a city tractor in Philadelphia, was really in very solid condition. Minimal body welding required, and in running condition (yard driveable) before the disassembly.

The disassembly began in November 06. Today the frame rails are completely bare, sandblasted and epoxy primed.

The cab has the sheet metal work completed and is in red oxide primer for sanding.

I have a wiring harness coming from Top-O-Hill for a 12v negative ground system, using a single wire alternator.

After a lot of discussion and brain-storming, I decided to go with a 4.28 final drive in the original mack rear end housing on a softened spring stack for ride quality. I am planning a nine speed overdrive transmission behind the original 673P diesel. A Pac exhaust brake is probably in the mix, too. (Keeping my Jake brake for a future project)

Of course new brakes and lines are part of the picture, with maxi brakes on the rear axle.

Staying on the Daytons with new radials all around. Not using my power steering on this truck.

I expect my use of this tractor will be limited to local and light loads. It was my first Mack purchase, and is probably less than an ideal truck for much other than local use. (space limited both inside and under the hood)

But - it will be a heck of a nice local truck! I have a pretty nice 25 ton Eager Beaver lowboy to pull.

I will update with more photos soon.

Paul Van Scott

We've sold lots of TEC Brakes for the Mack 2 VH...haven't heard anything bad. All Jake parts and TEC parts are interchangeable.

I purchased one of Barry's TEC engine brakes. Parts quality looks really good. Packaging was really good and solid.

My understanding is that all of the parts are interchangeable with Jacobs brakes of the same model.

And these kits will work on any of the two valve, six cylinder Mack diesels.

What probably swayed me more than anything else is that new parts are currently available.

We have a couple of older Jake units. Occasionally when a solenoid fails or something breaks, parts can be a hassle.

On the hobby trucks that is not such a big deal, but on a work truck parts availability is an issue.

I have not used PAC brakes, so I can't comment on them.

Other than the fact that, once again, I really do not like buying something from out of the country, I think the TEC brake is a good replacement for the obsolete Jacobs unit.

Barry, I hope you can see your way clear to inventory a new TEC brake for your stock, to have available for sale.

Paul Van Scott

Spanky,

Where on the East coast?

There is some possibility that we might be able to put together a combo load including

B61Fred's new Pete, which is also in Oregon.

And I think I have a B61 cab & chassis in Wyoming to bring home to NY.

Sure would help if we could load from East to West, too.

Paul Van Scott

Barry at Watts Mack has Jake brake kits for two valve engines, I believe.

Bought one myself a while back from them.

And you are right - they are getting harder to find.

Paul Van Scott

Hi Adam,

It might be helpful if you could post the exact engine that you need.

There may have been only one engine in that particular truck model, I don't know,

but typically the engines were used in more than one series of truck.

We have a lot of firetruck enthusiasts on these forums, I think you came to the right place.

Just for starters - try Kevin All at All Macks. (www.allmacks.com)

I'm not a fire truck guy myself, but I know that he has at least one 40's vintage fire truck

in his yard.

And I know there is someone in Punxsatawny(?) Pa. who has old Mack fire equipment.

Tell them you heard it here.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

I guess I need to ask one of those dumb questions.

Sorry for being so ignorant.

I've never heard the term "bailey channel" before.

Can you please explain it.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

You do have 15 gears but some ratios are the same so mack tells you to not use certain ratios. The ratios may not be the same but will be so close to each other that there would be no gain in going into a gear that you may be only 100 rpm different than the one you came from. Some 15 speads do have 15 true and even rpm splits i think that would be a direct drive in hi gear. glenn

Glenn is right - by the nature of a duplex, triplex or quadraplex Mack transmission, there are actually two separate transmissions mated in one case. Hence two sticks. The gear ratios do overlap in some instances, especially when there may be an overgear in each of the transmissions like a TRT-7220. You still have, as Glenn said, all 15 gears, but you may only use 12 or 13 of them on a regular basis.

Confusing, I know. But - If it were easy anyone could do it!

Good question,

Paul Van Scott

Well she's gone guys- Hi Yo Silver is sold to a chap up in Maryland. Only delivery needs to be arranged from just outside Nashville Tennessee to somewhere up in Maryland. I understand the buyer will pay time and expenses and fly driver home. Contact Dave Brown: d.brown@pascoelectric.com

Dale

Congratulations Dale -

If you get anxiety pangs from missing the old girl, and the red wine isn't helping - call me, I'll come down and tow a boat or two around for you.

Make sure Dave Brown joins us on these forums, and puts the truck in the B Model Registry.

Meanwhile, I can ask around for a qualified driver.

Do you have a phone # for Dave Brown?

Paul Van Scott

Hi Packer, The stuff I use is Stanadyne's Performance Formula which puts some punch back in this ULSD fuel. Less smoke, more power and better mileage are the results. I'd really like to try some blended or straight biodiesel instead of this ULSD sludge.

With all of the asking around I have done, the general opinion is that, unless you have a fairly new diesel with synthetic seals and O rings in the fuel system, the 100% biodiesel might not be your best option. And the ASE article seems to bear this out.

So, Garth, in your B's 673 diesel with the natural rubber seals and O rings, it seems that a B20 mix might be a good choice rather than synthetic fuel additives. More power, better lubricating qualities and less smoke should result.

In the Dodge/Cummins, however, I think you might want to inquire from a knowledgeable source about a higher percentage mix, or even 100% biofuel. You may find it is still a little pricey. But I can't think of a better cause than to reduce our country's dependency on foreign oil.

It would very interesting to find out what Willie's people are using in their busses and transport trucks. I have heard that it is 100% biofuel, but it's just a rumor. Someone should call him up.

Interesting Stuff.

Paul Van Scott

This is the best forum conversation we have had in a long time-

and some of it might even be true !!

I love this place.

Paul Van Scott

Dave,

This is an excellent article, Thank You. And the link works fine.

This article confirms most of the information that I have found in bits and pieces over the past couple of years.

Interesting to me that the biodiesel in a fairly low percentage mix may provide the upper cylinder and fuel system lubricity for our older diesels.

However, in higher percentage mixes, it could cause rubber seal failures in the older fuel systems.

There is some real concern about the use of ULSD fuel with regard to the "dry" characteristics of the blend, and the resultant lack of lubricating ability.

I think it's worth more research and actual testing of bio-fuel. I'm going on the hunt to find some locally. There are at least a handful of companies here in Rochester using at least some blend of biodiesel now.

YOU HEARD IT HERE AMERICA - EAT MORE FRENCH FRIES !!

Paul Van Scott

Willie Nelson started a company a few years ago called BioWillie which produces & distributes Biodiesel fuel. Right now it's only available in Texas & Oklahoma but let's hope it catches on. Let Venezuela & the Middle East drink their oil while we support US farmers!

http://www.biowillieusa.com/inner.php?editorpage=b201

http://illegalfilms.net/biowilliepromo.mov

GO WILLY !!

Personally I think he'd make a great president.

Anyway - I have heard a lot of pros and cons about biodiesel. It is probably becoming more of a practical reality as the technology for production improves. And supporting our own ag-industry is a lot healthier than buying oil from people who want to kill us.

Does anyone have any good information about the use of bio-fuel with regard to seals and gaskets? Any info about performance and cold weather care would be good. (Vegetable oils gel at a fairly high temperature)

Is a percentage mix like B-20 or B-50 better, or can 100% bio-fuel be used? If not - why not?

There seem to be a lot of rumors and stories floating about the use of a new fuel.

And while we are on the subject - how about information as to proper additives for today's low-sulpher diesel in our antique engines? Does anyone have a recommendation?

I think this is important stuff for all of us to hear.

Barry - we might cnsider morphing this topic into a separate forum.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Van Scott

I looked at this ad myself, and thought it looked pretty good.

In general I agree with the question "what is it worth to you?"

Although there are still cheap or "free" trucks out there - complete basket cases are

worth $2,000 or more, and they usually don't run. And this is no basket case, according to the photos.

Depending on how you would use the truck, you might be able to leave it "as is".

If you will be satisfied with the truck the way that it is - then it may be a good buy.

And you can probably have a lot of fun with it, without a lot of financial risk.

If this is a good solid, straight and healthy B61, I would think that $6,000.00 might be a fair price.

Especially if you are close to Boston. Getting it home, if you are a long ways away, can be expensive.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

Rob,

My guess is that a sliding tandem axle air ride unit from a low step deck might be the same as what you are looking for.

Most often the step decks are spread axles, but some, particularly the hinged tail trailers, do have sliding tandems.

Also, I think this set-up is used on the Landoll sliding axle trailers.

Might be rare to find one used, though.

It probably would not be hard to fabricate the air ride, if you had a spring suspension tandem trailer axle set set and some air ride parts.

One bit of concern - the tubeless 17.5" tires commonly used on the low ride axles very rarely make it to "worn-out".

These tires do not seem to last very long. And they can be expensive.

For whatever reason, the 15" tires seem to do better. You might want to ask around about this, to confirm.

I'll keep my eyes open.

Paul Van Scott

Robin,

Parts for the 673 engines are getting harder and harder to find.

Did you try Matt Pfahl? Chances are good that if he does not have the liners, he will know where to find them.

Paul Van Scott

Hi Morgan,

That looks like a nice Pete!

We are still waiting for answers on loads to the state of Oregon.

I will keep you posted.

Any chance you might load us home from Indiana?

Paul Van Scott

Barry,

This sounds like a fun event.

Have you posted to the ATHS guys yet? I know there are some Mack guys there that may not be on our forums.

If all goes well I will have my R600 ready, and maybe the world's longest B67 project done in time.

We'll see.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Learning to drive a truck tranny just takes time/patience/smoothness. Can't jam it along like a car. It has to be worked like a walking on eggs. I learned on my truck on the way home from buying it. Still "grind" a gear on occasion(nobody is perfect). Just have to live/learn.

You have gotten some excellent information in this discussion.

I would like to add that some of your confusion about shift points is the difference from a gasoline engine to a diesel.

The heavy truck diesels operate in a relatively small power band. Say from 1,200 rpm to 2,000 rpm. By contrast your gas motor might make adequate power from 850 rpm to 3,000 or more, depending on what it is.

Don't forget - the diesel is making huge torque in that narrow power band. And each shift is made at essentially the same point on the tach, unlike the gas trucks.

Learning a diesel truck, as Freightrain said, is pretty easy. Simply a matter of running the tach up to about 2,000, lift your foot gently and ease the shifter to the next appropriate position. It is easily accomplished with your left foot planted firmly on the floor. In fact it is easier than trying to clutch for each shift. Done properly you shouldn't be scratching or worse, grinding any gears. You can feel the next gear, and the transmission will let you know when to drop the lever in place. Maybe a little blip of throttle to help smooth the process once in a while. With no synchronization, the clutch probably won't help a lot, if you miss, anyway.

If Freightrain was clutching each shift in those videos, he would be walking in very small circles because his left leg would four times as big as his right.

As everyone here has said - straight cut gears with no synchros are a different animal than your light truck synchronized transmissions, and for good reasons. We are dealing with torque numbers unlike any gas motor produces.

Trying to get a super low 1st gear and a super high final gear is really asking a lot from these old trucks, too.

The TRD 2070 transmission does go a long way toward this goal.

So the moral of the story is - get in the truck and have fun!

Paul Van Scott

I recently purchased a 1959 b61 and i am having trouble making it do anything except honking the origional horn i believe it is the series parallel switches but since this is my first mack i am not sure the truck is located on long island and if any one could stop down and take a look or tell me what to do it would be a life saver i have had the truck for about a month and have had no luck.

thanks

If all of the batteries are good and all of the cables are good, and you know it - the series parallel switch would be next on the hit parade of things to look at. It gets a bad rap sometimes, and actually does not fail all that often.

Check the simple stuff 1st - like all of the connections at the starter and series switch. If the engine has sat for a long period of time, the starter may be sitting on a bad spot. Can you push the truck to start it?

My initial guess is that one of the batteries is weak - and for some unknown reason, that will foul up the whole starting process. My second guess is that one of the cables or connections is bad.

If the truck has been sitting for any length of time, you might make sure that the engine and fuel distribution rack are free before you start it up. Also be sure that the rack returns to a closed position, so the engine will shut down properly without danger of over revving.

Contact B61Fred, or Rob, or Fuzzy Buzzard on this forum to get better info, but start with the simple stuff before just replacing parts.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

Gus,

There are a couple of options that I have learned about - and maybe more choices that I don't know about.

First - the factory offered hydraulic power steering as an option, and at least one manufacturer offered a similar system (Shepherd).

These systems are driven from a coupler behind the generator that drives the hydraulic pump from the generator shaft.

Matt Pfahl (sp.?) will have better information on these systems. And he has parts available.

The second option might not work on a 673 engine. Beginning with the 711 and early Maxidynes there was a coupling thru

the air compressor that drove the hydraulic pump. I have one of these systems to try on my B67, should I decide to use my

711 engine. As I said - I don't know if this works on a 673 - it might.

The 3rd option is simple - the gym. Build up your arms, and put some weight on your trailer to lighten the steer axle.

These trucks do not steer hard if the front axle set up is done properly. Unless you are spending a lot of time in tight quarters,

power steering is probably not really necessary.

I would try Matt Pfahl, for more info.

Paul Van Scott

Guys,

Any particular trick to quick removal and reinstallation of the vent window assemblies?

Bob

Amen Brother, Amen - I sure would like the answer to this question too!!

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Morgan,

Both of my B model steering wheels have been pretty easy to get off.

I removed the nut, obviously, and the flat washer/retainer - then "helped" the wheel up a little with a softwood block and a small hammer. They came off with little or no resistance. No puller necessary.

Have Fun,

Paul VS

Hey guys,

Still in need of moving this bucket truck. Any recommendations on who to call?

thanks,

Mark

Berkshire Transmissions

North Adams, Massachusetts

413-663-3336

Mark,

Call Jim Schreiner at (315) 986-7935 and explain your situation. If Jim has anything going from here (Upstate NY) to Ohio or Michigan, Illinois or Indiana, I'm sure he would quote you a price to get your truck home. And - get the actual height of the unit please.

Paul Van Scott