vanscottbuilders

Matt Pfahl had some original swivel ends for the B model hydraulic dampers,

although the heim ends work well.

Spring U-bolt material in the correct diameter works really well for the link,

and the spring shops can thread it for you.

When you get a list of the pieces you are looking for - post them here and we

will try to help you out.

Good luck!

Paul Van Scott

It's all in the gearing and how fast you want to go!

The 350 is plenty of power - and not as expensive to

maintain or overhaul as the V-8.

140,000# is a pretty healthy load for any power train,

but I would think with 4.11 or so rears, and an overdrive

for running when you're not that heavy, the 350 should handle

the loads very well, hills or not.

Think about the rear ends, too. Minimum 40,000#, and it sounds

like 44,000# or heavier might be better. And springs rather than air,

if you're off the road very much.

Nothing like a good R Mack!

Paul Van Scott

Very cool!

Nice to finish up the year on top.

Congratulations Larry!!

Paul VS

Check with Kevin All at All Macks. (www.AllMacks.com)

He's got a few sets of square fuel tanks in his inventory.

The square tanks were the most common fuel tanks on the B models,

so there are some around. Although leak-free examples are hard to find.

Paul Van Scott

The key to metal polishing is to let the polish do the work.

If the aluminum is corroded and etched bad enough to need sandpaper

and abrasive buffing, those are steps that take place prior to polishing,

obviously.

One of the little tricks that I have seen used on diamond plate, which is a little more difficult

to shine than polishing flat stock, is to use a piece of a good thick carpet.

A scrap about 8" square is manageable. Almost any brand name polish is fine. Just keep rubbing.

The blacker the residue, the better job you are doing.

Mother's has a couple of "Powerball" foam polishing tools available for use in a cordless drill.

These are a big help, although they don't last too long on the diamond plate.

Polishing metal is a pretty rewarding job. The results are always good to see.

But - After finishing one of Jimmy's W-900's recently - I like my all painted Macks pretty well!

Paul Van Scott

The real issues with making any old truck into a usable, daily runner are pretty much manageable.

1st. Safety is the big item, with the braking system needing to be updated to a dual system with Maxi brakes.

This doesn't take a lot, but really is important. And - it can keep the DOT somewhat out of your pocket!

The rest of the truck needs to meet standards as well. The most suspect items are usually the suspension and

steering pieces. These are really maintenance items, for any truck. But you need to be certain everything is in order - again to keep the government out of your pocket. The other safety and comfort item that comes to mind is the addition of tubeless radial rubber. The truck rides better, steers better and has overall, a safer tire and wheel combination than the multi piece rims.

2nd. Power is probably on the short side. It's strictly up to you to decide what works for you. These old trucks are usually a bit heavier than a modern, high horsepower unit. Between the weight and the slow speed, you might want to consider a power increase in the form of any one of the later Maxidyne or E-series Mack six cylinders. Then you may want to think about the transmission. Power is purely optional, as I said. It will work fine with what exists. It just may be too slow to get paid by the load. You might need hourly work!

As Tom said earlier, there are still B models running, including a really nice B-61 in Rochester, NY. That fellow has been running that truck for at least forty years! And it still gets the job done. As I understand it - a few years ago, at overhaul time, he upgraded to a newer Maxidyne engine. The truck looks great, runs great and surely doesn't cost much to keep going.

Your idea certainly has merit. If approached realistically, I think it will work out quite well.

Paul Van Scott

Thanks Dave,

I'll get on the phone tonite to the hotels suggested.

Paul VS

Does anyone have a recommendation for a hotel near Lititz, Pa.

that can handle large truck and trailer parking?

I've never been to the Gerhardt show, but am going this year

and looking forward to it.

Will need a place to stay that can accept the W-900 and trailer.

Thanks,

Paul VS

Rod,

Have you tried whitewall cleaner?

It should work quite well.

Paul VS

This question comes up alot on this site -

If you are up in Durango, Colorado you probably need all of the extra power you can get from a turbocharger.

Unfortunately using the normally aspirated Thermodyne diesel as a base isn't the way to do it.

It's not designed for any boost at all, and it will self-destruct under the added stress.

There were several models of factory turbocharged 673's with the necessary modifications, the latest having piston oil coolers. They work pretty well.

Glenn is absolutely right - find a 237 Maxidyne for your use, and sell the 673 to finance it, if necessary. You'll be delighted with the difference.

If you are using an original Mack transmission you probably don't want any more torque than the 237 will give you, or you need to treat it pretty carefully. The transmission becomes the weak link when the power goes up.

Doug Fetterley says: "Drive it like you own it, and you'll be fine". He's probably right.

There will be some head scratching involved in getting the clutch linkage reversed from a push type to a pull type operation, but nothing that's that difficult.

237's are getting old, and a little hard to find, but they are out there. They make almost a perfect engine for our old trucks in that they are cheap, reliable and easy to operate.

Good luck with your project and keep us posted.

Paul Van Scott

The mice can nest almost anywhere in the truck.

I've had them in the brake drums, in the interiors, up in the dashboard.

Literally almost anyplace.

I just recently had an engine in the shop (an old 673P), which had set outside in the truck for years.

It would run, just wouldn't rev up. I thought the fuel pump was probably all gummed up,

so it was going to come apart for rebuilding.

Anyway - when the valve cover was taken off the rear head, it was packed full of mouse nest!

Probably gained access through a breather, but it sure surprised me.

So - the moral of the story is - Be careful that you get all of the mice out of the truck.

Maybe if you put yourself in a position of really needing the Irish Spring so bad that you couldn't stand yourself................ Hey - it's a thought.

Paul Van Scott

That B-67 looks pretty nice.

Actually, the doors and the lower cab look excellent,

and the steering wheel looks really good.

As a town owned truck, the truck probably doesn't have a lot

of miles either.

Good luck with your new project!

Paul Van Scott

Mike is right - the only way to get more air into a normally aspirated engine is to create more vacuum

and/or more cylinder head volume, or pressure to compress that air, or create a denser charge of air

(via cool can etc.). The engine is getting all the air it can take in right now, unless there is an obstruction

in the intake system. Simply adding a lower restriction air cleaner would probably not make a measurable difference.

Turbocharging is a wonderful addition to a diesel engine, because you gain the flexibility of adding more charge air and force-feeding the engine under pressure.

Unfortunately, you are stuck with a whopping 170 or so raging Mack ponies - and they only have one speed! And it ain't exactly a gallop.

Our company motto is "Old, Slow Trucks - even Slower, Older Drivers"

Welcome to the club. I think it's pretty cool that you are actually using the old B model to move your equipment.

Paul Van Scott

I don't think this question can be answered accurately without a lot more information.

Photos might help, and a complete accurate description of the truck's condition. Even then, the trucks

are worth whatever somebody wants to pay. These are antiques, and they are mostly toys for their owners.

And everybody's got a different opinion of what is acceptable to them.

Is the truck a project truck - or is it a running, working truck with current license and inspections?

Does it have good rubber, good brakes, updated dual brake system, modern air line plumbing, decent frame, decent cab, decent interior, good transmissions, clutch, springs etc., etc.?? These things all cost money, and the list goes on and on.

For instance - a fresh set of ten virgin radial tires and tubeless wheels are worth over $3,000.00. If they are already on the truck, it would make a big difference. If the springs or trunnions are cracked or broken, it's expensive.

If you have to put a clutch in the truck; a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel resurfacing with both bearings replaced will cost upwards of $1,000.00 just for the parts before you're done. And it's a pretty common need in an old truck.

The paint job is $4,000. to $6,000.00 for a decent job with minimal bodywork, and could easily top $10,000.00 for a show quality job. Welding, dent beating and panel repair are going to add on to that price.

I guess my point is - any answer you get here, for the question as you have asked it, will be no more than a guess,

and probably not very useable for making your decision.

I really do not mean to sound sarcastic, but -

You need to be happy with the price. It doesn't matter what the rest of us think. You know how you are going to use it.

If you're just going to play around with the old truck, maybe you can overlook a lot of it's imperfections. If you're going to work the old girl, you might need to be certain the truck is up to the task. If it's a restoration project, you can't pay too much for an excellent body and frame.

We just want to see you get the truck and have fun with it!

Paul Van Scott

DTR,

I would suggest that you look around this site, or go online to E-Bay

to find and purchase a Service Manual for the R688 right away.

It's a practice I have used for years for all of my vehicles,

and it has served me pretty well.

Reprints and original manuals in all conditions are readily available for most later Macks,

and are pretty reasonably priced.

I know my early Mack R model Service Manual has wiring diagrams.

I'm just curious - how are you going to use the truck?

Paul Van Scott

Just my opinion, but -

I think the resistor you are referring to near the headlight may

actually be the junction block between the main wiring harness

and the headlight wiring harness. The original wiring harness

should consist of three sections; a main section, a cab section

and a front light section for lack of a better description.

Each section was connected via junction blocks.

Paul Van Scott

I think you will find that it is easiest to simply fabricate your own repair panels.

The only after market panels that seem to surface from time to time are usually of

questionable quality, and poor consistency in their availability.

A good sheetmetal mechanic can fab up exact pieces for you quickly and efficiently.

The guys that have worked on old Mack cabs for me have always been impressed at

the quality and workability of the original steel used by Mack. That seems to make the job

easier to get accomplished.

Best of luck with your project.

Paul Van Scott

I like the Ford Fairlane - kind of a rare piece; and that

dark blue Chevelle is really nice.

But the one that really steals the show is that Mack mixer.

Who was that masked man anyway?

It's nice of you to participate in the charity event.

It's what we all should be doing.

Paul VS

I'll bet the wrecker was a lot easier to steer with the load

carried in that position! Maybe too easy.

Paul VS

I love that sleeper cab - Thank you for sharing the pictures!

Paul Van Scott

We're all rookies, really. Some of us have better

lines of BS than others, that's all.

Let's start at the beginning; what truck do you have,

and with what body? (ie: wrecker, dump, tractor etc.)

Is it running and driveable? And, if so, how would you

like to use it?

This is a great hobby, and we look forward to hearing from you!

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Suejoe,

If you still need a load hauled -

Contact Mike Lutz at (607)643-5242.

Mike is an independant owner/operator who moves quite a few

old trucks both North to South and vice-versa.

I have found him to be very professional and very reasonable.

Paul Van Scott

That's a lot a lot of hardware in there!!

Going to make airport security a little challenging.

Hope you're recovering OK.

Paul Van Scott

Dynamat is a good product - but a little pricey.

Check on the competitors, and there are a few.

Also - be a little careful when reading the specs,

some of the stuff is for sound reduction, only, and

may not be heat resistant.

Paul Van Scott

What does anyone know about the lead seal used for the rear crankshaft seal

in the 673 and 711 engines? When did Mack stop using them?

How difficult are they to change, and is any special tooling required?

Also - what about the rubber replacement/upgrade seal? Same question -

any special tooling required?

I am well into the conversion of a 711 for use in my B-67, and I am changing all

of the parts from the original 673 that need changing to fit the short engine bay.

Part of that is the bellhousing. Seems like a good time to reseal the crankshaft,

although there is no significant leak evident.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott