vanscottbuilders

Leon's right - I jumped the gun.

Volvo Trucks and Volvo Cars are indeed two separate entities.

Volvo Cars has been sold by Ford to the Chinese. Going to be bad for yuppies.

Thanks Leon - Hope all is well with you.

Paul Van Scott

Thanks Rob,

That block might work out real well.

I'll look around locally, but not holding out any great hopes.

The truck I need to bring everything home from out West keeps getting bigger and bigger!

PVS

On a far more serious note than the routine "Volvo bashing" -

Ford announced last week that it is selling Volvo (Ford is the majority shareholder)to the Chinese.

New company is "Creel" or something like that.

This gets really ugly.

Not only do we buy everything from soup to nuts from the Chinese, but now they are going to provide the vehicles to bring it to us. And we owe them trillions of dollars from our highly efficient federal spending machine.

Get the picture - We better be teaching our children to speak the Chinese language.

So - If a 237 can accept the innards from a 285/300 -

Is the block any different between the various six cylinder Maxidyne variations?

I have a freshly rebuilt tip-turbine ETZ-675 285 hp that was carelessly left to freeze with only test water in it. (Not by me by the way!)

The crack is really too big to confidentally repair. But all of the inside parts, turbocharger and intercooler parts, and fuel pump are either remanufactured or brand new.

I need a good block, and I'm wondering what will work?

Thanks,

Paul VS

Hi Daniel,

Welcome to BMT. You'll like it here!

Very intriguing place that you hail from -

Looks like a lot of very heavy duty trucks.

Were the V-8 Macks popular in New Zealand?

Paul Van Scott

That B-53 was at Huntsville, and just freshly completed at that time.

I was very surprised to see it in the California auction.

It's a really, really well done truck for someone who wants a great toy.

Paul VS

Thanks Barry -

PVS

Does anyone if there is a manufacturer or a vendor that sells

the original type stainless steel hood hinge in lengths for the various

B model hood panels? I could sure use a couple of new, or really straight

original pieces.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Rob,

I had a conversation with Kevin All recently about modifying an engine compartment.

The summary of the dialogue, in Kevin's words, was: "You cut your way in, and you weld your way out."

I think I'll remember that one for a long time!!

PVS

Excellent! This is an appropriate explanation of government economics.

And, like so many other government ventures into business management -

this is another big circle jerk!!

Hopefully they are all proud of themselves for giving us all of that "help" LOL.

Paul VS

That's a pretty unique ride!

Quite a heavy duty unit.

I'm curious - what are the "bands" around the lower windshields of both trucks?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Randy,

If the air ride cab system is aftermarket - it may not be too good for the life expectancy of the cab mounts.

A truck designed with an air ride for the cab also accounts for the movement of the cab by hinging or softening the front cab mounts to allow the motion without fatiguing the metal in the front mounts.

We had a Peterbilt a little while back that had this type of aftermarket system on the rear of the cab. The hood no longer fit to the cowl, the cab had sagged badly to the back and the front cab mounts were shot. It was a fairly expensive fix.

Mack uses a rubber donut in the cab mounts that has a steel liner to prevent compression. It doesn't allow very much movement. The front mounts are steel castings, and could be fatigued by regular bending motion fairly easily.

I think, for my money, that I would remove the air ride setup, and put back the original rear cab mounts, which are fairly cheap and long lasting. The truck probably has a good air seat already, but if it doesn't - just go get one.

All those ride softening devices just make a guy sleepy anyway!

Paul Van Scott

Hi Randy,

What you are talking about on the R-685 cab is way too new for me!

Sounds like a cab air ride system, and probably was a Mack option, although it could have been retrofit.

As for working on it - I don't have a clue - Sorry!

You might try herb at HK Trucking here on BMT. He has much newer equipment than anything I have ever owned.

Good Luck!

Paul Van Scott

That's a fantastic looking truck!

Congratulations.

Paul Van Scott

I think that Herb is correct - the 1st Macks with "optional" seat belts were the R models in 1966, and all of the various derivatives of that cab type. I don't know when they became standard equipment.

I have a couple of B models with aftermarket belts, but I have never seen any with factory belts.

Paul Van Scott

We have one of our 53' step decks unloading just North of Chicago, Il. on Wednesday afternoon February 17.

He will be available for loading in the Chicago area on Thursday morning.

If anyone has a truck or other vehicle that they would like to get back to the East coast - let me know quickly.

The rate will be very reduced from normal load rates, and the service will be immediate. He is leaving the area on Thursday late morning, if we don't have anything for him to pick up.

Best to contact me by phone at (585) 509-4783 (EST) or by direct e-mail atvanscottbuilders@rochester.rr.comfor quotes and details.

We would prefer to get the driver home to the Rochester, NY area, although he could come home first, then deliver anywhere on the East coast if necessary.

Paul Van Scott

Historic or antique plates are state regulated, and have a different set of rules for each state.

In New York, for instance, "Historic" plates are fairly easy to obtain. The vehicle can then legally be driven "occasionally", for maintenance purposes, and/or to and from shows, events and parades. (Every time I go out - it's an EVENT! I'm just not sure that counts)

A load can be carried with HX plates, provided that the load is not carried for hire. Technically, the load must be part of the truck demonstration or show. So you could carry a second vehicle on a trailer for a show, etc. - but, you just can't do it for hire.

I do not believe that New York places any mileage restriction on the use of the plates.

No state DOT number is required, although we must comply with local regulations in other states - such as fuel tax reporting, toll payments, etc. I'm not certain about a federal DOT sticker.

From that statement - I think it's best to be well documented by using a log book for your time and tracking all receipts for tolls and fuel purchases. The log book only takes a few minutes and filing receipts is easy.

One option, at least in New York, is to register the vehicle as a "Recreational Vehicle". No special licensing is required for the driver - which may, or may not, be right - but it's the law. The limitations are few with regard to fuel tax, log book usage, DOT regs, and compliance with any mandatory scale or roadside checks. You don't have to stop - but be prepared for a visit from your friendly officer of the law when he pulls you over for not stopping! And have your explanation well planned and rehearsed - you will need it!

As an RV, the carrying of a load other than perhaps a second, smaller vehicle is probably prohibited, and definitely can't be used for revenue hauling.

Also in New York, and in most states, the licensing of a truck is levied by weight. If you want to go big - you are going to pay. If, however, you are just using the old truck as a toy with no intention of hauling heavy loads - it may be fairly economical to simply license it light and use it accordingly. All of the rules go with you when you do that - but there aren't any real risks involved if you follow the rules, and I think you show some credibility to the law enforcement people, who may respect what you are trying to do and actually help you rather than fight you!

Hope this helps.

Paul VS

That's a nice looking truck Mike.

I think we come from a time where comfort wasn't a big deal - and today we appreciate it when we see it.

That looks like a really comfortable ride!

Paul Van Scott

Farmer,

With the IFTA sticker, or any other regulated sticker, plate or license - you are probably off to just go without it and plead ignorance if you get asked. Putting on a false or "borrowed" sticker is a sign that you did know what you were doing, and a sure way to get into bigger trouble.

I once got stopped for having one of my New York "Dealer" plates on the front bumper of the tractor, and the other (from the same set of two) on the back of the trailer. But - I only got stopped after almost 1,000 miles and several states of hauling a load of cars that actually belonged to another dealer. I was within a couple of miles of my destination, and I didn't talk a lot about where I had come from. I just pled stupidity - which came fairly naturally. We had a long discussion about just how bad I had been. And - luckily, we never talked about the fact that just having a load for hire on the trailer was really illegal. After a while, the trooper could see that he had a genuine brain surgeon on his hands, and let me complete my mission with the very solemn promise never to do anything like that again! And I have honored that promise. I promise!

So, I believe that ignorance and stupidity are true virtues, and I would practice them, if I were you.

Paul Van Scott

There isn't really a rear seal, as we think of a seal, in the old Thermodyne diesel engines. The Mack people refer to it as a dust cover, designed to keep contaminants out of the engine. They don't seem too concerned about keeping oil in the engine!

The Mack dealers still have those parts in their system. I just recently got one myself from Beam Mack in Rochester, NY. They are not very expensive, and I assume that any knowledgeable Mack parts person should be able to help you out.

Paul Van Scott

Willys57,

I had a 1957 Willys 4wd pickup that we completely restored recently. Neat old truck. (It sold on E-bay, by the way)

Anyway - back on topic....

I agree with Trenton on the recategorization of your truck to get more hits on E-Bay. Also consider getting rid of the $4200 "Buy-it-Now" price and set a minimum bid of $1500 or 1800, or whatever is the least amount of money you will take for the truck. Let the bidding go from there. It will sell - just be patient. We are in the worst economy most of us have ever seen. And, like you, many of us are buried in snow up to our ears right now.

And - for those of you who don't recognize it - this truck is a really good buy; it would be a good buy even if it didn't run! There are very few rust-free examples of any 40+ year old trucks anywhere in the US. Rust-free trucks that run, stop and drive are extremely rare, and getting more rare every day. A total cab restoration of an average condition East coast B model Mack runs in the order of $5,000.00 to $10,000.00, almost all of the money being used to correct rust related problems. Starting out rust-free is better - a lot better.

Just to help - I have a B Mack somewhere out in the Wyoming wilderness that I have committed to purchase from Packer. It will need to come East to upstate New York sometime this spring. If somebody was serious, I would share our trailer with them and get the dump truck back this way also. The cost of shipping would be cut in half. And I wouldn't have to try to convince Packer that Ohio wasn't a bad word!!

Paul Van Scott

Jim,

As everybody has said all through the project - Very, Very Cool!!

Paul Van Scott

Doug Fetterly told me some years ago -

"Drive it like you Own it, and you'll be fine"

That always struck me as good advice.

The multiple disc clutches were definitely made for the increased torque of the Maxidyne engines.

The single disc, push type clutches were pretty tough, but less than ideal for hard use behind the newer engines.

If you are lightly using the truck, or just showing it, the old clutch set-up should be OK as long as it is in good shape. If you are working the truck, you really are just asking for trouble.

Paul Van Scott

Macks were built to move mountains with minimum horsepower and a lot of gear advantage.

If you haven't done so already -

Go online and find a gear ratio or final drive ratio calculator - there are lots of them and they are easy to use.

Feed it the required data - tire diameter, max or desired rpm and final drive ratio (including any overdrive multiplier) to get the speed at that particular rpm.

7.88/1.00 is probably too much gear for a road truck. Great for pulling a load though! If your truck will be used in a lot of parades or other fairly slow activities, it might be real good, but you won't be passing too many people.

Even with a .65 overdrive, the final drive is over 5.12/1.00, which is still a pretty low final drive ratio by today's standards.

Paul Van Scott

You should do a little math and get the real numbers, if you haven't already.

Go to a gear ratio calculator online and plug in the required data - tire diameter, max rpm and final drive ratio to get the top speed.

Then run a calculation at 1,650 rpm or so, for a nice cruise engine speed, to see what you have.

Running around 70 mph at 1,650 is a real nice, easy cruise.

I think the TRQ-7210 is a .69 overdrive, which gives you a 2.88 effective final drive with the 4.17 rears,

probably way too fast as Mike has said earlier. Excellent for going downhill though.

Would you consider trading with someone for a single over triplex or quadraplex?

The 4.17 rear gears are great with a single overdrive Mack transmission with a .86 or so overdrive, for a 3.58 effective final drive in high gear.

I'm sure there are a lot of guys who could use the double-over box.

Keep us posted,

Paul Van Scott