JerryB

Is the Vision radiator that much smaller than the CH or is it more the design of the hood that isn't conducive to carrying the heat away...?

I'd still like to find a '98-'02 E-Tech motor for my 97 CH...I don't know if I'm that brave though.

I don't know the CH dimensions but the Vision is 29 X 32 and the hood design traps the heat. I have a 97 CH w/350 and about 850,000 almost painless miles on it that still makes a Houston to Chicago every week rain or shine. The EGR 460 hasn't been that consistent ever.

SOUNDS LIKE A CHALLENGE. do you think the vision has enough radiator for it?

Yeah I thought about that too bigen and I don't know. How's your new ride doing?

I'm hoping with the ECM still with the pullout motor all there is swapping places but I don't know.

Okay gents I've found a pre-EGR low mile 427 pullout at a good price and wonder if I use the wiring harness and ECM from the pullout what other heartaches I might have doing the swap into my 04 Vision with the EGR type 460?

When the ASET ac first came out the turbo part# started with 631GC5171****, Then after much trouble they redesigned it and the new #starts with a 631GC5176****. Any time the engine came with the 5171 and you changed it to the 5176 stlye the dealer has to call Mack and have the engine software/datafile changed. I think this was only on the 2004 and maybe early 05's. I would have the dealer call and make sure it has the right engine data. The turbo oil drain back tube service bulletin was also only on the 2004's , I will look it up to be sure.

Thanks to both of you. I'll check the drain tube and If it helps thinking mine truck is a 2004 Vision vin# 017436.

Jerry

It aint the cooler.

Make sure you got the updated turbo drain tube on your truck there was a SB long time ago on this, see if 68 can find it for you!

Also check to see if he can find the engine data file your running See if its correct we had problems with a few trucks poping turdos the data file was changed to correct the turbo wheel speed !Having said that,

This is where the guessing game starts, running the block off may be spooling the turbo to excess at the wrong times!

Heres a check!When your engine idles just sitting there, What kind of boost do you see on the gauge?

There should be 0-5 at the most!

Don't forget the puter dont know what youve done ,that now is out of its control. neather does the turbo.

im just curious here! Now the turbo has to do what the fuel tells it to do to a point the puter is being told now that the egr valve needs to be wide open Cause its thinking I don't see egr flow. I'm really not sure what its telling the turbo to do at this point!

Just thinking.

Thanks for advice on the cooler that saves at least $1000 first. At idle the boost is most times 0 psi but never over about 2psi. Can Mack tell me the engine data file and turbo speed settings you're talking about when I have the new turbo calibrated? Maybe I better take the egr block out and try again. I'll check the oil drain and if you think of anything else I always appreciate your interest and I'm open to suggestion. Thanks for your advice.

is it still under warrenty?

Yessir the turbo is warranted so I may save $3500 or so on this breakdown. Mack warranted the last one after several months and sending it to Memphis for a final exam. I decided I'm going to put a new charge air cooler and all the rubber hose parts this time around. Mack says the air cooler isn't leaking but something is causing the turbo problem. A new cooler is $850 from Detroit radiator but it's $1595 at the local Mack dealer.

gerryb didnt have any problems with his last week and he put 3,000 miles on it, havn't heard from him this week, hope i didn't jinx him.

She made up for it this week bigen. She started white smoking about 100 miles from home on the inbound so I pulled the discharge hose from turbo and sure enough the turbo was puking oil. That's the 3rd turbo to go out. The side to side and end play are okay but the seal is out.

Thanks for the link bigen I've been looking for a good reliable 04 Vision.not

I don't see how a Mack salesman can sleep at night.

good luck with it bigen I hope it works out good you. That's pretty impressive looking.

P.S. can I have all your empty antifreeze jugs now since you won't be needing them anymore

plenty of work i just hope it will be dependable

good luck with it bigen I hope it works out good you. That's pretty impressive looking.

The noise he has is low on the block!To find a head gasket the best way to find it is to pour water over the area you suspect while the engine is runing the sound will change as the water passes over the area.The cam is more likly!

You're right. I was just thinking out loud about the chirp. My head gasket experience is limited and I found that if it's blown it would only chirp when the engine is under load anyway.

Hey In my experence the cam would make a "popping" sound not a "chirp". You might wanna check air comp. or (sounds silly) head gasket or head bolts, I have herd them do it under load. GOOD LUCK!

That's my thought too. The only chirp I've ever had was either a broke head bolt or blown headgasket myself. Every time I couldn't find the chirp in that same area he mentions it was on #4 blown to the front and chirping between the heads.

Thanks to Fred and Bruce for your valuable info and service bulletins we've found the problem.

After much much head scratching and inventing a few new cuss words and re-reading what you guys said and then re-reading the service bulletins you sent on the coolant system we've found the problem. It wasn't the water pump as I suspected, it was a thermostat sticking, but only sticking sometimes. If I was a mooselimb I'd send you guys 3 or 4 virgins each in appreciation but since I'm not mooselimb I'm having trouble finding them for you. :chili: It's time for my weekly Chicago tour so my wife and countless bill collectors say thanks for helping me.

Thanks to both of you,

JerryB

I hope bigen is having good luck with his coolant woes.

Today while I was salvage surfing I found a crew cab B model and don't know what it is. The owner says he thinks it was originally a fire truck. The series badges and data plates are long gone so could anybody tell me what it is? The paint is bad but there's no sign of rust so I'm thinking of putting the cab onto a Dodge/Cummins chassis and running gear to pull an RV trailer..

it will suck if it is another egr cooler. but on the other hannd thats a pretty easy fix compared to a head gasket or something thats hard to find cost a lot to chase unknowns. the lightning bolt flashes have got me worried,it wont stay on long enough to get code.

bigen I'm having the exact same problem of pushing out coolant right now myself. Right now I'm checking the water pump and came by to read the mail. Sorry to hear about your woes. Was your dad a traveling salesman of some kind? Sounds like we must be kinfolks.

the fuel milage is the only thing that gives me hope. lite load not to tall 63 mph a little over 8 mpg thats from junction city ks. to las vegas on hwy70. if i have to deadhead very far i will keep it at 58mph and its very close to 10. i know i have just ruined my creditability on here. it is very mph sensitive if i cut it loose 75/85 it drops to about 3mpg

wow I've never get near 8mpg but at 80,000 if I keep a light foot on it around 55-60 I can get 6.5 or so. If I run 70 or over it drops down to around 3.5 to 4 mpg.

Hey Guys,

I worked in trucks shops in the late '60's thru the '70's and fought the busted lug issue

on Alum wheels, tearing my hair as I went along.

Took a bit to work thru, but came up with a cure-all in the problem!

The inner studs, the ones that are in the hub, come in differant lengths.

IF you put ALUM wheels on studs the right length for STEEL wheels the only thing that carries the weight on the outer wheel

is the inside nut, and they WILL break!

Because of the much thicker ALUM wheel, the inner stud will not support the outer wheel.

That's why they break the inner nut, and the out side wheel comes off

Even the inner nuts for ALUM wheels are longer, to make up for the thicker wheel.

So-o-o, check to make sure that the STUD extends thru BOTH wheels.

At the time, Alum wheels were just comming into big time use, and because they

were lighter, making for more payload, the big switch was on!!

I replaced a lot of inner nuts and bought a pile of outer nuts.

After the the problem was found and longer studs were installed, the issue went away!

By the way - - - my hair never grew back!!!!!! LMAO

Packer

You're right. I learned the hard way too.

i put several 100,000 miles on a 97 ch 330/380 light truck grossing 125,000 gvw plus pulling a end dump waterpump and accelarator pedel, one rearend, owner to cheap to put all tires on drives put 11r22.5 on frount drive left lopros on rear must have been driver abuse. wish they built trucks like that

yeah I agree bigen. I have a 97 CH613 with a 350 in it that's been almost pain free for close to a million miles. It's had a tranny swap, one water pump, one starter, and one oil cooler. I put crankshaft bearings in at about 800,000 when the oil cooler went out because I was afraid of damage from mixing oil and coolant but the bearings looked good. The 97 still makes a round from Houston to Chicago every week grossed out at 80,000 lbs like a new one and gets better fuel mileage than the 460 gets on the same job.

You should put the driver on your truck !Then you can blame him for everything, It will make ya feel better.

Off subject!

No falt codes with the egr plug Jerry correct ?

That's correct fjr there's no code present. lol I've thought about putting Jim on the new truck but I don't have anything against the man.

I dont know what i would do without this site. i get helpfull information,people who will listen to me bitch,and understand what im bitching about, a lot of laugh's along the way,and its open 24/7. thanks everyone!

aint that the truth brother. Nope I bought mine used with just shy of 200,000 on it from an "honest" friend. He said he never had any trouble with it. I sure hope St Peter is in a good mood when he gets there and tries to explain lying to me about that.

If the Mack engine was worth a flip this is a dream truck. It runs like a champ when it's running and rides-drives like a Cadillac. I'm giving serious consideration to putting a mechanical 427 in mine or else a 60 series detroit.

I have a 97 CH613 that I put 875,000 miles with only one waterpump and one transmission rebuild so this 04 is a huge disappointment. I have a driver on the 97 who never misses a trip, and wish I could say that.

is it as easy as just removing the egr and adding the plate

Yes bigen. I used the gasket for my template and cut a flat piece to fit. Put the gasket back between the EGR and plate so it don't leak then just sit the EGR back on top and nobody knows it's there. I'm in the windy city this morning I think it was 8 degrees

when the fan hub goes bad? should i check for play? will it stop working? will it lock up?

i know im being a pain in the butt.

i learned erly in life its cheaper to ask questions, and learn from other people,than to be a hard head and tear stuff up.

The way the pros here at Big Mack told me to check worked fine. If you turn the fan blade by hand and hub is locked it's bad. IOW- if you can turn the engine with the fan blades it's a bad hub. I have gotten a lot of money saving and nerve settling advice from these guys.

Theres one thing about this Jerry you will not have any problems with the egr cooler cracking with no flow it will never get hot!

I do know that if the egr valve is stuck open or closed or if the egr cooler is pluged the computer won't tell you theres a problem

so pluging off the valve at the manifold does make some sence.no flow in the egr tube will tell the computer to open the egr valve but with no where to go but out, there you have it!

That was my original thinking fjh. I had replaced the cooler once and didn't want that prob again. so far on just over 100,000 it's still doing fine and the fuel mileage gain doesn't hurt either.

I don't mind bigen. I hope somebody can shed some light on it for us.

I'm surprised EGR is not monitored for pressure, or vacume. Typically the EGR system is on vehicles.

Rob

Yeah me too Rob. From what I can tell the temp sensor on the intake manifold regulates the EGR valve control. IOW-- the EGR valve gate seems to operate from temp sensors on the intake only.

oh yeah bigen I didn't mention the fan hubs. A Behr electric fan hub is $860 in Houston and I'm on my 3rd one now. I feel your pain brother.