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my endt675 has an oil leak on the fuel pump side seems to be from the side cover bolted to the block .is this common?maybe its got to much crank case pressure??

Those gaskets seem to get very hard and brittle. They never get looked at so theyve probably been on there since day dot. Mack dont make a gasket they list a tube of silastic as the part number. Gleemans(PAI) list a gasket. If there was too much crankcase pressure the front and rear seals would probably let go first. Thats what happened to our F model. Also we had a battle trying to keep tappet cover gaskets in it. Does it use oil? It could be your compressor blowing past the rings

Dont forget the 864 V8 twin turbo. I believe it was rated at 300-325HP.

Were there many of the ENDT864s(twin turbos) around? I think there were only 2 or 3 that came out here to Australia in F models- F719RS. Ive seen a picture in the US of an R719. Out here the END864 was rated at 255hp, then in the R models they wre called an END864A and were rated at 284hp, and that was between '65 and '67. There were only 25 V8 R models out here and I think only 35 V8 F models, so it was a fairly limited run. The 865/6 were quite a popular motor though.

The E9 started about 1978 or so with the ENDT 1000 set at 400HP. Its availability in trucks stopped during 1998. Here in the states it was set at 400, 440, 450 and 500HP. In Australia it was available also with 525, 550, 575 and 610HP. The 610 produced 2050 ft/lbs to compete with the C16 and Signature 600. Also down under it was available with electronics around 1996 or 1997.

Thats pretty well spot on mate, the 575 and the 610 were a VMAC2 and had the electronic accelerator pedal, and were available in the Titans(which I dont think you had over in the states) up until about 2000. That was the last of the V8s. A very sad day. By far the best sounding engine ever made and nearly the best performance,-pre electronic engines anyway.

All new bolts is not a bad idea. Flange head bolts and nuts are available commercially, as well as hardened washers. You will find hardened washers listed as structural washers. Measure OD and ID as well as thickness to get what you want. The Mack shoulder bolts are still available from Mack. If you need anything other than stock diameter or length, be prepared for dumb looks and shrugging of the shoulders. Any thing you could buy from Kent More would be pricey. The problem with purpose built tools like these are that they are often a non standard size. Wayne Tool Co. is an excellent source for reamers. Measure every thing two or three times and don't settle for anything you are not happy with. Be creative with your thinking, a fine thread metric bolt will work just as well as an SAE. If you find you have to enlarge existing frame holes a proper reamer is the easy, safe way to do it. It is absolutely faster and more accurate. I just finished installing a used rear suspension under my RS700, and finding suitable hardware was an absolute pain in the rear. Don't become overwhelmed with your project, keep plugging at it. If I can help find something send me an email. James

Thanks very much James. I will have to start hunting around. Im a way off putting it back together but thats very handy to know.

Yes the bolts are expensive I think and the part no. is 3ax1827 its10.94 plus tax and the harden washer is 35ax144 its 5.37 plus tax prices are australian .not cheap

Thanks old mate Ill run the number by the local dealer. Did you have to use the reamer? I should be able to get away with using new bolts on existing holes toward the front but since Im shortening it to original length the back will want some attention. cheers

When I separated my frame rails I started with an air chisel and a flat hammer bit to loosen the rust. Then a large firewood type wedge in the end all the while with more hammering from the air chisel. Then when the gap was too big for the wedge I slipped in a portapower jaw type spreader I could keep sliding this farther in with it's hyd hose. Once the frames were apart a needle scaler takes the heavy rust of fast, that will make the sandblasting go much faster.

The frame bolts Macks calls "body bound" thier shoulders have a interferance fit that requires a special reamer, and it is a odd size that is not availible through industrial supplies. These bolts can somtimes be purchased from other sources Huck fasteners makes them as "Huck Fit" bolts. With any of these type of bolts the shoulder length is critical and generally 2 flat load washers are used. There is an entire section in Mack manuals on frame repair and proper bolt selection.

Chuck

Also the manual lists the reamers and their part numbers, J-26461 or similar. Is that a Kent Moore number? Cheers

When I separated my frame rails I started with an air chisel and a flat hammer bit to loosen the rust. Then a large firewood type wedge in the end all the while with more hammering from the air chisel. Then when the gap was too big for the wedge I slipped in a portapower jaw type spreader I could keep sliding this farther in with it's hyd hose. Once the frames were apart a needle scaler takes the heavy rust of fast, that will make the sandblasting go much faster.

The frame bolts Macks calls "body bound" thier shoulders have a interferance fit that requires a special reamer, and it is a odd size that is not availible through industrial supplies. These bolts can somtimes be purchased from other sources Huck fasteners makes them as "Huck Fit" bolts. With any of these type of bolts the shoulder length is critical and generally 2 flat load washers are used. There is an entire section in Mack manuals on frame repair and proper bolt selection.

Chuck

Thanks Chuck, I found the body bound bolt section in an old manual here. So far on mine Ive found the rear suspension and the front hangers have used these bolts. Because the chassis has been lenghtened and the the truck has been genarally bodged up Im not sure how many parts need these bolts. The manual doesnt say, do you know if anywhere other than the suspension needs them?

hi guys those are good ideas when one starts to hammer all the debree will fall.check the chassis bolts and replace as nesesary is mega important because there is the strengh of the chassis and the most is back of the cab. HK is right do not weld on framerails since they are forged it loses some of the hardneded properties unless crucial.dont forget to hand tight all the bolts in place before you fasten completly sometimes is a pain in the neck goodluck again RODERICK

Thanks mate, and everyone else who has chipped in too. Can you buy the stepped shank chassis bolts anywhere or will they be a special order? Im going to use all new bolts because there are different bolts everywhere along the chassis. Someone along the line somewhere has attempted to do the truck up but its just a disgrace, its quite possibly the roughest job ive ever seen on a truck. They mustve been in a hurry. Cheers all

I wouldn't recommend that. Try not to weld on a frame rail unless it's a repair for an already broken frame, a splice to lengthen a rail, or to weld a dump body hinge to the rear end of the frame.

That sounds fair. Do you have any thoughts on splitting them? I want to keep the rails because its a very rare truck out here. cheers

Thanks old mate. My chassis is completely stripped, no cab or body, suspension, driveline etc. Im a bit worried about actually getting the 2 rails apart. Someone down here said there is a good chance that I will damage the inner rail removing it from the outer, because of the amount of rust and growth between them. Would it be helpful if I tacked the cross members to the inner rail and supported them, and then try to pry the outer rail out? Was yours the black DM with a red chassis?

I still don't understand why it would build pressure. The engine is using fuel, which would create vaccum on the tanks over a period of time.

Please help me understand. Here is the chain of events that I would think are logical: The pump draws fuel from the drivers side. This should create a vaccum on the drivers side. Gravity and vaccum should force fuel from the passenger side to the drivers side. Air should enter the vent on the passenger side as fuel level goes down to compensate.

If the drivers side were to be vented, then no vaccum would be created by the use of fuel. Gravity should still level the tanks.

The only explanation that I can think of is that the return fuel is heated as it is pumped and therefore takes up more space than the fuel that is being used. But this does not really make much sense as this would mean that the tank level would never go down as fuel is used???

Could air be getting into the system and being pumped back by the return line?? This would not make sense in a pressurized system though???

Or is my original logic flawed?

It will expand and contract to a certain extent with the difference in temperature of the fuel coming back from the engine. The tank is also a cooling vessel as well as storage

I bought a 88 Mack triaxle at auction and drove it home yesterday. It has a ~50 gallon fuel tank on each side. The fuel gauge is not working, so I checked each tank before I left and they both had about 9 inches. I went about 10 miles and ran out of fuel. At this point I went to unscrew the caps and found they were under considerable pressure (maybe 15 psi). The driver side tank was empty and the passenger tank now has about 12 inches of fuel. Of course it draws out of the drivers side and that is where the return line goes too.

What would cause this?

I put new fuel filters on and put some fuel in the drivers side to make it to the fuel station. The station was only a mile away and the tanks seemed to build up pressure again. I filled the driver side tank up to the top and drove it the rest of the way home with no problems. It was dark when I got home so I did not stick the tanks to see how much was left, but they were pressurized again.

I looked in the tanks this morning and the drivers side is now half empty and the passenger side is full to the top. I did not put any fuel in the passenger side yesterday. The vent is on the passenger side. There is no vent on the drivers side. Just a suction line and a return line. The two tanks are plumbed together on the bottom.

This thing really has me baffled. I thought that the tanks would have equalized overnight?????

Interesting mate. I wouldve thought there should be a breather on the drivers side as well. My only theory is that the build up in pressure has caused the push of fuel to the passenger side, because its vented. Sorry if this seems blatantly obvious. If its only returning to one side and its not vented then I dont think it has any option but to pressurise. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be great. Cheers.

Gday how is everyone? Im trying to restore an R615RS. I bought it as a rigid tipper but I want to make it back into a prime mover as it was originally, and restore it to new condition. The chassis rails need splitting as there is a bit of growth between them and it is parting them. Ive never done this before and would appreciate any info if someone has done it. Just the best way to go about it, any helpful hints or where I could run into trouble. Thanks everyone in the hope of hearing something, cheers.

I noticed last night that the trans had a 3/8" gap at the bell housing at the top. Some bolts were broken off and some were missing and the remainder was loose. I tightened some and replaced the missing bolts. The trans worked great today for about 4 hours untill more bolts snapped and the trans moved backwards again. The truck is in a local shop now waiting to have the trans pulled. The bellhousing will need repaired or replaced. Anderson

Sorry mate Ive been out for a couple of days, Why is your gearbox fallin out? Your mounts mustve been worn? Sounds like you may need to sling a rear support across the top of the box like a Roadranger. Ive seen a similar result on a V8 with a quad box. The bolts came loose and it fretted and chipped the back of the flywheel housing where it mates against the block. As for jumping out of gear our F model was doing it, it has a 15spd roadranger, we put a heavier detent spring on top gear selector and replaced the mounts and it solved our problem. Obviously the lenngth of the gear linkage had a bit to do with it. Be interesting to hear from you mate. Cheers

My R model has a Mack 6 speed and it jumps out of high gear when going down hill. Could it be the gear or the fork?

Unlikely the fork. The fork will wear a little which will cause the dog clutch to not throw in as far and the teeth will round off, so as soon as the load comes off it, it wants to jump out, but the culprit will be the dog clutch. But I did have a bolt come loose on the shift rail on our X1070 2 stick and it wouldnt select reverse properly.

What are the differences between a Superliner and a regular R model? Weren't they both available with the same engines and transmissions? Also, what is an Ultraliner?

A superliner is an R700, not an R600. You couldnt fit an E9 in an R600. The superliner has a bigger radiator and bonnet and the cab is set further back, and on the Mk2 version it was also raised to increase air flow. Other than the E6 a Cat 3406A and B was the only engine offered in the superliner out here, and with a Horton fan could not be fitted into an R600. Otherwise, yes same chassis, driveline and cab. Ultraliner is a non steel cab cabover released out here in about 1984, slightly earlier in the USA i believe. The last of the Mack cabovers. Out here they were only available with E6 and E9 engines, but in the USA were available with Cummins and Detroit also. They had a grille similar to a CH/R, but it extended the width of the cab. Finished up out here in 1991 were re-released in 1993 as a series 2 and went until about 1999. They were known as an MH model in the states, and an MHR out here, or commonly as an Ultraliner. There is a couple of pictures of our Ultraliner in my gallery.

The old 237 ready to be replaced. I got another year out of it, was burning 1 gal of oil a day, it's now up to almost 2 gals. Thirty three years and never been apart. What a testament to QUALITY!!!!. I have a 285 tip Turbine for the old steel nose. Motor was Petigreed by Mack in 1994. Dropped the oil pan, rods & mains look like they just come out of the box.

Any how I would love to put a jake on it while doing the engine swap. However, Two Valve Jakes seem to be impossible to find here in Massachusetts. Wondering if anyone know of a line on one? Used Perfered but New is an option.

Also wondering about the offset parts neccessary for air duct to clear the valve covers when the jake is installed?

Any help/Info would be greatly Appeciated!

How you goin mate? Your RD looks great. Why are they called an RD? Here in Australia they are just an R. Mine is an R615RS, the R meaning right hand drive and the S is for a 6 wheel tractor. I havent got mine to the stage in your photos, but its coming together slowly. Did you split the chassis rails on yours?

Ive never heard of a conversion, I think the old Thermodynes had 20 head studs instead of the Maxidyne's 18. I think the liner flange is also different on the Thermodyne, There is possibly a kit available with Maxidyne liners and a newer style head gasket. Im not sure, can anyone confirm or can that for me?

Got a couple sitting on the shelf in Sydney mate. Lookin at about $105 AuD. Got V8(E9) rockers in stock also. Cheers

Which rocker do you need mate? Whole assembly? with/without shaft? Ill check out here tomorrow for you

Good onya mate, hope you got Bill sorted out! Im guessing that is your B model pictured.....

Good to hear Doug. One problem that ive found with the 3 engines I have is that theyve all cracked and/or chipped a piece of the block out on the bottom right hand side where the flywheel housing bolts on. Have you ever heard of this happening? One was running when I bought the truck but it had water in the oil and it grabbed a main bearing. Im hoping to make 2 engines out of 3. Have you got trucks yourself mate?

Gday how are we all? Im skip from Australia and Im lookin foward to hearing your yarns and information. Ive got 2 R615RS prime movers. Unfortunately neither are going, but arent far away. Both are undergoing complete restorations. Both have quad boxes and 864A V8s. Quite difficult to find parts for them out here

Gday how are we all? Im skip from Australia and Im lookin foward to hearing your yarns and information. Ive got 2 R615RS prime movers. Unfortunately neither are going, but arent far away. Both are undergoing complete restorations. Both have quad boxes and 864A V8s. Quite difficult to find parts for them out here