Mackpro

Hey mackpro do you think it would be wise for him to also check fuel lines and make sure they are tight cause i have a 95 ch613 when i bought it it was having trouble starting like MTR is having the fuel system bled off after a couple hours and in the mornings it was a pain till i had enough and every connection i check and all cooper washers and i found a washer had a slight blemish changed it that cuired the problem cause i was talking to a company about fuel pump and associated items and i was looking at almost $6000 and come to find out a $1.50 washer was the problem

His truck is a ETECH style engine with no real injection pump but I know the copper washers you talk of on the older injection pumps, they now have a steel washer to take its place.

driver says it seems to run fine but idle has me concerned. would supply pump affect idle also can supply pump allow fuel to back down (checkvalve)

The check valve could be bad, its on the pass side of the block above the air compressor. The idle issues is probably that the driver hit the cruise buttons just right and lowered the idle speed, it happens alot, I always turn this feature off in the parameters to keep this from happening.

I would start with a fuel supply pump, unless it has been changed lately. I know we put alot on. We had a 06 CV in here yesterday that would barely run and that fixed it. Once it is running, does it have as much power as it did before?

I vote turn signal switch as well. I hope your style is not the kind that you have to remove the steering wheel to change the turn signal switch. I really liked the days of the old flat dash CH's where you could change the TS switch in under a minute with the right size torx screwdriver.

Not a single warranty claim in it's life which could be good or bad. Seems like a good all Mack truck with T-2180B trans and Mack rears with 3.86 gears and air ride, It came with a 64" mid-rise sleeper. Engine has Jacobs engine brake. If the cam had been replaced and the Jake pins replaced I would not be scared to jump in it and go cross country.

Early ETECH's did have camshaft issuses, intake manifold gaskets blowing out (around #1 cylinder) and Jake Brake (floating pin) issuses. All these problems can be fixed with available updated parts. A great engine!

The MRU looks great then they make a front loader out of it and all that juice from the cans oozes down over the cab and windshield.

We had one new 2011/2012 MRU in our area but customer sold it to someone in New York after 3 months of use. So glad to see it go!

We lost alot of customers in 2004 when they bought CX's and CH's with the AC engines. Had to change the fan belts at every oil change (due to under hood heat damage), EGR cooler failures, turbos every 80-100K miles, fan hub failures. It was bad. Afew of the customers traded them in for CV's with the AI engine set up as daycab road tractors, alot less issuses but poor MPG. The CHN's and CXN's with AC engines came out ayear later much improved and things got better as turbos, fan hubs, belts and tensioners were improved/updated. But that bad 2004 year cost us dearly here!

Muffler baffel broken and sometimes gets blown up sideways blocking hole. I doubt thats it but I have seen happen, took me 2 days to figure it out!

Probably just air in the system. Your truck should have the Sheppard 92 series gear box on it. Heres a link to the 92 series service manual. http://www.rhsheppard.com/manuals.htm

You are lucky it has worked as long as it has. I have only seen one around here that still works. Most are black screens. Even the larger VIP screens in the first Visions/CX's seem to fail or go bad quite often.

We have had two home invasions within 25 miles of my house where the victims open fired on the bad guys. We actually have a low crime rate around here with only maybe 1 murder a year. I have had my CCW permit for almost 15 years, I never leave home with out it!

Pull down the metal kick panel in front of the passenger seat below the fuse panel. Behind this panel you will find the ABS ECM and the VECU ECM. The ABS ECM will say WABCO or Bendix or some other ABS system maker . What you want to look for is the Mack VECU ECM. Its a thin black plastic rectangular ECM . It has 3 push in wire connectors but places for four. First thing to check is see if the VECU ECM is faceing up where the connectors come in from the top. If so thats a bad sign, water seems to so how get into the ECM when facing up. Regardless unplug all 3 connectors and check for green or damaged pins. If all OK and the ECM is faceing up , unbolt it and turn it faceing down and reconnect all plugins. Next is to try to catch it "not starting" and check to make sure all 4 power relays (next to fuse panel) are powering up. I think #3 power relay fires up the engine ECM. If this relay fails all will seem to work but crank no start and this failure will not set a code.

The screens were only in the late 2003 ASET style engines. Your safe as you have one of the best engines mack ever had.

I hear that they are having some paint problems over at Mack, any truth to that or just rumors? I do know that one of my Concrete customers had some paint prob. and Mack took care of them. The trucks by the way are running great an the drivers love em!!

BULLHUSK

Yes on the paint problems. We are having issues with trucks that are ordered with a custom color. The hood and cab come out 2 different shades/colors.

The problem we are seeing with Mack building so many trucks is that all the parts are going to the factory and the PDC's (parts distubrution centers) dont have the parts we need to fix the older MP engines. Here lately we have had to get parts pulled off the assembly line to fix the trucks we have broke down. While we can always get these parts it takes an extra day to get them to us. Other that that keep on building!

STEINBAUER Tuning Technologies Inc.

Halifax Station

364 Crompton Street

Charlotte NC 28273

Phone 704-587-0856

Fax 704-587-0896

Free Call: 1 877 886 4649

Email usa@steinbauer.cc

Thanks!

Is there anyone in the US that sells these (dealer)? It seems all the websites are overseas, I have a guy that really wants one but doesn't want to send the money across the pond.

The GR pipe at the turbo was a $130 or so pipe including the pyro inlet. It wasn't listed for the Granite but it slid right in. I will post parts when I get truck back.

We used a Walker muffler $70, that was 5 in and 5 out. Two problems here were.... Need a new heat shield $170, stainless, because the new muffler is 10". We neded to get 2 extra heat shield bands to secure the new muffler (10") to the side of the cab in existing factory mounts. Bands will need slight fabrication to make work. I have about $700 in parts for the exhaust system.

Rob

You dont know the part# of that Grand Rock pipe or know what model it was for ? Thanks

Boost in mountains great

Engine brake double what it was

Mpg up 2/10 but I drove 8 mph faster and was fighting a 20 to 40 mph head wind

Quiet and smooth, power great

No leaks check every day

As all ways great service

We need to work on finding a better muffler. Found some flow charts on some different brand under cab mufflers. I think it would help some.

Be thankful that it still runs, I say that as I stare at the top end of a 2012 MP-8 that has had decided to break apart and fall down into the timing gears on the back of the engine. I just love working on Saturdays!

I am the Warranty Admin at our Mack dealership, always read the fine print on the Mack warranty , the salesmen will tell you anything to sell a truck. Most everything inside the cab (except certian AC parts by Berh) has a one year warranty its been that way for 10-15 years on Mack. As far as the steering column goes, we have had the same thing happen on several trucks but never changed out the whole column, A cable kit/ gas cylinder usually cures it. Thank Volvo for that crappy design, it came from their trucks along with that air assist clutch crap!

Hopefully will have truck running on the road by the beginning of the week. The extras.... When replacing injectors it's recommended to replace injector lines. I was able to upgrade the exhaust to 5", turbo to tip, with all off the shelf parts from our local Grand Rock supplier. Will post back with more info and pictures when I get the truck back.

I found that the first CV's had a 5" turbo exhaust pipe all the way down to the very end of the pipe where it then necked down to 4", this necked down part could be trimmed off to allow for 5" flex pipe to be slid over. The later CV's some with ETECH's and all with AI's (like yours) had the turbo pipe neck down to 4" an inch or two behind the turbo. I finally came across a CV with the 5" pipe and got the VIN and looked up the part and Mack still has it instock but it's $500 and is drilled for pryo sensor. Would like to see your 5" setup before I gather up all the parts for my buddies CV 5" high flow system. I did find some 5" in/out high flow mufflers that are the same size as the stock muffler.

Sadly we have no paper wiring diagrams for the newer trucks anymore. Their all on Macks Dealer website. And it's a bitch to try to read them on a laptop while working on a truck.

Bigen was at our shop the other day and we were talking about a guy that was on here that had almost figured out how to sucessfully remove the EGR system on a ASET and not have any malfunction codes or negative side affects. That guy just vanished with no trace, secret EPA police hit?