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Big Dog
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Posts posted by steeler

  1. Working on a 2011 Volvo road tractor, not sure of the model since they don't put it on the vin label. It has a D13, came in with hard starting problem. It had 3 cups leaking. I changed injectors and cups, now the thing ribs great for 45 seconds and shuts off. It will fire right back up, run exactly 45 seconds and shut off.

    The key is jacked up in this thing, you can take it out whole it's running, and I'm pretty sure you could start it with a screw driver. No new faults, only the same one that was in it before I worked on it, for def level from the instrument cluster.

    Of course this one has the aftertreatment deleted as well.

    Is there any security feature I'm not aware of that would shut it off because the key is flopping around in there?

    I'm just grasping here, not sure where to go.

  2. 8 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

    Volvo helped cured the issue by screwing up Mack’s parts system. Now they have to chassis search every part instead of operating on shelf-memory and the first two alpha’s. 

    Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.

  3. On 5/10/2019 at 10:18 AM, Hvtech said:

    Mack Trucks are now total Junk. Ever since Volvo Bought Mack They Have Been Junk. The computer systems on these trucks are the worst i have ever worked on . The scanner software is no better. We have Tech tool on our pc and most of the time it fails and we have to repair the software before we can even scan the broken vehicle..! It is very frustrating.. The poor bulldog is ashamed to be on the hood of these turds.

    I'll give that an AMEN! None of us know what would have been if Volvo had stayed out of it, but this sucks. There is almost nothing I like about Volvo.

  4. 12 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

    Make sure you get the correct pedestal gasket for the oil manifold base. I believe there are two variations that can be easily swapped after Mack did the left hand revision for the flipped centrimax and cluster plate cooler. 

    THIS! Make certain you have the exact gasket that came of it.

    • Like 1

  5. 2 hours ago, terantrucking93 said:

    I have the same issue can y’all tell me where it is locator the ahi module I have the same mp8 I can’t find it

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    It's located below, and in between the ecu and the air compressor. 

    • Like 1

  6. 5 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

    My vote is no-go on the bottom-up installation. You'll never know if your in perfect alignment.

    H ring.pdf 295.46 kB · 4 downloads

    Agree. It would be very difficult if not impossible to get it in straight without the tool.

    Whenever I replace one, I always put some sleeve retainer on them. Don't know if it helps hold them better but can't hurt I figure.

  7. 11 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

    If it is the same as the N14 this is the specs.

    The crank gear has one timing mark that is aligned to cam gear which has two marks.....and cam gear has two different marks one is for crank gear to cam........and other is for cam to accessory drive.  It will only line up one way. Have crank gear at 12 o'clock position the cam gear will have two marks one will be at 6 o'clock position to align with crank and other will be around 2 o'clock position to align with accessory drive.
     Hope it helps.

    Yup, this has an idler gear that mates with the crank/cam/and accessory drive. But apparently it takes 900 thousand revolutions before the marks line up. I don't know if there is an easier way to go about it.

  8. I know it's not a Mack question but one got a M11 that somebody has installed the accessory drive out of time.

    How the heck do you time this thing? There is a rubber plug that allows you to see the idler and cam gear teeth, and I'm figuring that if I roll the engine around enough, eventually these will line up, but I've turned this thing till I have blisters on my hands and still haven't got alignment.

    I found the "v" mark for timing the accessory drive, and I can put it together lined up, but shouldn't the crank/cam/accessory drive marks all be lined up at the same time?


  9. On 1/30/2019 at 11:13 PM, turckster said:

    I believe before you go to all the trouble to raise the engine high enough to remove the egr cooler that you can remove the egr valve without breaking bolts or stripping threads in the manifold. If that happens (which happens a lot)then you might as well remove the turbo and so forth. 

    Yes, if I'm doing a valve and cooler, I'm going to go ahead and pull the turbo.

  10. This crap is just ridiculous. In my case, I spent probably 4 hours diagnosing, checking, rechecking, because a freaking brand new fuel line wasn't manufactured properly. Plus the time to change it, which is a bit of a pain in the ass on a nasty leu garbage truck. And that's time you really aren't getting paid for.

  11. Update......found the problem. The fuel line that goes from filter head to engine had a brass T fitting in it with a small line running to the after treatment fuel pump. I replaced the line with a new one and they didn't drill all the way thru the fitting. Parts defect. Sure is aggravating!

    • Like 1

  12. I've got a 2011 mp7 that we replaced the engine with a reman due to gear train failure. Trying to start the engine for the first time and I'm getting no fuel to the head. Weird thing is I've got 97 pounds of fuel pressure, engine will start, stumble around on maybe 3 cylinders then die.

    Now if I pump the hand primer, fuel will flow backwards, into the head from the front, nothing going in from the rear.

    All the fuel lines are routed correctly. Could a stuck check valve cause this? I know there are several in the filter head.


  13. I've talked to a few owners that have done it and are happy.

    There are downsides to it though. For example I just finished working on a KW with a Paccar engine that was deleted. Guy had taken it to a dealer who refused to work on it because it was deleted. Turned out the ecm was fried. We got him a new ecm, but our local dealer would obviously only program it with the factory program. This guy is from out of town, and the company that deleted it for him is 1200 miles away, and out of business.

    So, he will have to find somebody to put his delete software back in it. In the meantime though, his truck will progressively derate. 

  14. 6 hours ago, mackr1989 said:

    terminology was wrong when they were saying the synchros were bad. the clutches were worn amongst other things. $5200 was the cost of the reman.

    Damn. You don't see sliding clutches worn out in a Mack trans very often. They can take a lot of abuse and still function just fine. Unless someone was VERY abusive to it, or whoever looked at it doesn't have much experience diagnosing them.

  15. 12 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

    FMI 3 or 5 could be the harness end as Steeler said . FMI 7  with miss or running rough could be oil control valve stuck open or stuck engine brake plunger on rocker arm 

    Good catch. I should have said fmi 3 or 5. Not 7. Thanks.

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