wilbur

I ended up buying the Jones, Its on the way. I will shave the weight elsewhere.

3 hours ago, 880joe said:

Inner fenders may also be different might be worth looking into if you're not getting a complete hood

Will do Thanks Joe, I might just go with a Jones, They said their bare hood is 200 lbs. A stock Mack cant be that much lighter, besides a Jones is 2K cheaper

Looking to buy stock Mack 2004

3 hours ago, 41chevy said:

The CH hood is   1 1/2  to 1 3/4 inches longer than the CHN.

Are you talking by the windshield.?  I cant see where that would hurt.   Thanks  I have seen some aftermarkets are 53 and some 52.

On 8/17/2020 at 6:36 PM, Nobody454 said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/mack-hood/353131706126?hash=item52384a370e:g:5hoAAOSwusdfBGrf

 

also on ebay in Palos Hills, IL

same story, don't know anything about it, just saw it listed

this one is sold I emailed the guy in Villa Park Thanks for info;

On 8/16/2020 at 3:24 PM, david wild said:

you need a hood or just updating

I need a hood. Dont want a Jones, they are fiberglass and heavy. looking for a stock smc hood

On 8/13/2020 at 1:59 PM, SupraJay87 said:

I installed a new buzzer for my 94 RD688s, it works for the signals and flashers but it doesn’t come on for low air pressure, I was put out of service for it. I need help 😭 

I was sure only one had to work, light or buzzer. But thats in Illinois, the corrupt state.

I was thinking of using these tires on a 8.25 rim on a trailer as a super single. Tires are rated for 9000lbs each. What you think.?

Will a newer CH SFA hood like a chu or chn fit a 2000 ch sfa.? They sure look the same. I see aftermarket headlights and bezels that fit 2000 to 2017. Does anyone know the difference in the hoods. I want to stay away from aftermarket fiberglass and stay with SMC stock hood.  Thanks

On 7/19/2020 at 4:30 AM, Swishy said:

Under the bell housing under the clutch mechanism there is a tin plate

remove the tin plate go grab a torch

look up @ the thrust bearing U shood see the grease nipple

only give a small quick squirt not too much

OR

the grease nipple has an extension extended flexi hose th@ is mounted on the tin plate

= no need to remove tin plate

cya

Whats the torch for

10 hours ago, Orama said:

16 mm & 24 mm

that is wrong  0.016" & 0.024"

Good luck finding a Bezel.  From what I was told the company that made them quit.  I called all over the country to find one.

Thanks guys.

is this the stuff?     If so Its cheaper than Rotella.

Would it be good to switch after 60000.?

How does this look? There is 60,000 miles on a fresh rebuild. Finally got rid of the fuel in oil problem.

80-200102 (2).pdf

I think they were $260 each at the Diesel Store.  So far so good.

Once on the truck I use a pipe wrench to adjust Toe.

Wasnt bad at all and mine been in there 20 yrs. It just took a little heat and im not a strong guy. Plus being 69 doesnt help much.

You will need an engine turning tool.  Take one out and take off the o rings and put back in the hole. Turn engine over till pump is about 1/4" up and stops going down. Take out and put in new one. Pull down evenly on the bolts. If I remember bolts torque at 65#.  Do the same on the other.

Thanks guys I ended up buying the Eatons and they are made in USA.   Thanks again.

Mack wants 70$ for Eaton 817018 And I can get Automann for 41$. Are the Eatons worth that much more money.?   Thanks

So what is your definition for BIU  ?

My dealer sells that stuff too. All I ever bought was a couple maxi chambers, which seem to be ok.

It has a fitting in the front below the water pump. And one in the back on the water manifold. I would think the flow would come from the front and go through the heater core and return to manifold. Except  the arrow on my heater control valve points the other direction. Its been like that since day one. There is no way to reverse it.