AZB755V8

That is Dan Thomas's Aussie Valueliner. It original done to the paint and Steering Wheel on the "Right" side. He's got a long, long distance award if there ever has one. Not to mention he is based in Oregon on the West Coast, USA.

Can't say I have heard of a factory 711 Turbo?? All those old turbos made only a few pounds of boost but good for a lot of smoke. They where just plain big as well.

The 250 or even a 237 probably does have more power than any 711 did turbo or not.

Lookin at your profile page you have a 1005 which is a early E9. I have both 866 and E9's. My 866 has the large head bolts and the E9's have the small but mine are 1990's vintage E9's. The fact is that your engine has been worked on and has a mix of bolts. Mack is know to change spec at any time.

Looking in the overhaul procedures manual it looks like both sizes of head bolt were used on the E9 but only one torque spec. That indicates the same size bolt but with a different head size. Head bolts have been a problem from the beginning and should be replaced when the head is pulled. The small head bolts are the only ones listed now.

I wouldn't worry about it until the head is pulled the next time. Don't fix it until it's broke.

Small are the correct ones

Definitely not factory on an E9. Looks like it had some head work done and damages the head bolt threads or broke bolt. Instead of Helicoil insert they taped it to the new larger bolt size.

Well for reliability?? Do you trust stopping every time you hit the air brakes? Same air and cylinder concept as brakes.

It just seems a little mushy to me and lags compared to a cable. No real snap... Think there is a air restrictor to slow pressure build-up.

If you have a diesel pick-up truck built in the last 10 years your pedal is not directly connected to the pump ether.

I went to work on my kids car and the throttle is actuated with a motor and not connected to the pedal at all. There's a switch on the dash for "sport" mode that doubles the movement in the throttle motor.

I believe the air throttle came out with the inline pump around 1990 or so. I don't think many guys liked it but it was suppose to saved a lot of broken drivetrain parts. Even with it the 94 CL I got for parts had clutch, trans (twice), drive shaft and front diff replaced by 400K miles. The E9 is still in great condition though.

An E9 is a one driver engine not just give it to the new kid to learn on.... unless you want big broken parts.

1978 the E9 was in prototype as the 1000 and 1005 and not intercooled. In 1979 the intercooled E9-400 went into production and ended in 1999 with the E9-500 in the USA. The engines pre E9 where the ENDT 865@325hp Maxidyne and ENDT 866@375hp Thermodyne. Both were not intercooled. Produced between 1970 and 1978.

The B-75 that I started with back in 96 came from Midland Texas and was the same color. I have seen 4-5 of these off green color trucks for sale over the years.There was a oil field fleet that had these trucks. Anyone know what was the name of the company?

I just restored the tanks and straps on my 53 LTL and used the lace from the same Restoration Specialties. It is as close to original as you will find, good quality and color. If you have the split rivets holding it to the strap they are in the bolt section at Ace Hardwares. Use the spray 3M Super 77 glue to hold the straps in place as well.

The gain in CFM's in the headers is really understandable but all the exhaust still has to go though that little approx 1 1/4 x 2 inch port into the turbo from each side of the engine. Gas velocity is low in the headers and has to accelerate in the crossover tubes and into the turbo. High velocity gas is what spins the turbo not volume.

Headers work by scavenging gasses out of the cylinder. This can not be done with back pressure from the other cylinders pushing back on the exiting gas as in a turbocharged E9 engine. Maybe at 4000 RPM's or more but there are just a handful of E9's spinning that at truck pulls.

I have raced and had headers on things for 35 years and still do. They don't work on anything until 4-5000 RPM's. I've went back to manifolds on several vehicles and picked up torque and hp at lower RPM's where normally used.

I got an old Holset H5, made before all the billet stuff, its good for 60-62 psi. I have Francis do one now for me. $2300 out the door, my old one was $2800 ten years ago. Be careful to not go too BIG. The Holset is a 3.6 with G trim and comes on at 1800 rpm's. Anything BIGGER is strickly truck sled pulling material and needs a lot of RPM's to spin it and not usable for everday. I want the new one at 1500 rpm's to make it a little more usable for the road but still pull like a freight train! Still a 3.6 but with different trim.

I just put on a turbo blanket and wrapped the crossover and exhaust under the cab to keep the heat in the pipes. Any one else noticed a difference doing this? It sure helps keep the floor cooler.

That's a Sweet Fleet plus spares. Hope they go to a good home

Prices, photo??

What is the scoop on the E9? V or Inline pump, Miles, hours, last run? Oil pressure, blow-by out the breather?

Got a radiator out of a 94 CL700 for my Superliner, both the same size and mounts. It has the big intercooler and under it is the AC condenser. I kept the AC condenser to use when the Grilldensor goes bad. It's right from Mack and is protected behind the grill.

I was thinking of log manifolds for one of my projects. I've had leaks as well but did not see what tube headers would do besides make a lot of under hood heat and have to be wrapped like Mack Doctor Jr said. Has anyone looked into square or rectangular tubing. If someone made up sets would there be interest in them and what would they be worth?

I don't understand what headers will do better when installed on a stock engine. If this is about the supply of manifold parts being gone and the only solution is header I get it. I have two Hot E9's one at 1100 plus HP and the other 1250HP both have cast manifolds. Each has work done by Dale Francis and Steve Trivets but I do not see a need for headers even at over 3500 RPM nor did they for this power level. Headers look nice but for stock 1800-2000 RPM I think they would decrease power rather than make more with a stock engine. If I could get 50 plus HP or more I would consider a set. What am I missing?

Tubing comes in several wall thicknesses and can get pretty thick. Racing headers are normally on the thin side. Thicker would be better for longevity in a truck.

Saw a post a short time ago. Talking $40K then.

Hell, At 300K that is just broke-in and ready to run. It a new engine if there is less than 250K on it.

I want the manifolds and fan clutch.

PM sent.

Man, That is one small hacksaw to cut that tank in half, you are a master of hand tools, LOL

I do have the newer steps on my RW and the tanks are 22" they look nicer and work better, best of all still have them at Mack but $$

The Brooks Show was this weekend up there. A really good one to get too!!

There was some great trucks there I am sure to look at and a few for sale. Mackdaddy may be able to set you up with a good project truck or know of a few if he doesn't have one.

Make only the 3 inch cross over pipe and no other parts with larger end diameters. The longer pipe to the drivers side was still good for me but both can be made out of a piece of thick wall tubbing/ pipe. I would make the pieces out of steel because cast iron gives me a real headache for a day from the dust but is easier to work with. The clearance between the mating parts is the problem and a tighter fit will stop the leak.

I was thinking, for a quick fix the rope graphite seal and sealer that is used in wood burning stove door seals may work. It comes in different sizes, take the pipe out and put a ring of the rope and sealer inside of each collar and reassemble, there is end clearance. The rope would fill that and tighten things up.

Mine was not as bad as yours. I loosened the springs up with PP Blaster wire brushed everything and used that runny exhaust sealer and it is holding.

I have a lathe and will turn up a new cross over piece the next time increasing the end diameters to close up the worn clearance on the collars and add the spring groves. 8620 steel and about two hours lathe work. I'm a retired Tool Maker and with a little more time than most.

I wasn't saying to get Headers but they are real nice. I think he would be the best bet for E9 parts, he had what I needed and fair on price, its just a phone call..

There are 2 spiral wound spring seals at at each joint they will be stuck and not move in the slot in the pipe section. They slip into the collar at each end. There is not a lot of tension on them and the collars do wear a grove in them from the seals. All three parts are going to be worn. I don't have a good fix other than having a machine shop turn up a new larger pipe section and slip it in each collar. If you can get the 2 manifold bolts loose the manifold collar pieces will spill around to get the pipe out as well. I just did this thing to mine. Manifold bolts are $22-25 each from Mack and the gasket is $14-15. The only place that would have manifold parts anymore is Dale Francis in Ohio. 440-254-4046. Super helpful Guy.