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Posts posted by AZB755V8
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I tried to send an email offer to the hrlucky52@yahoo.com account and it bounced back. Stated you have no account at Yahoo. PM. me back here with your number or other email. I sent you a PM on the pump.
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Are the E9 valve covers with the oil fill neck prone to cracking? I have 3 that have cracks around the oil fill neck. Has anyone tried to tig it? Does anyone have one that they are willing to part with?
I don't have an extra one but TIG welding the one you have should not be a problem make sure it is clean and use Acetone to clean the oil out of the crack before welding. CLEAN is everything in welding aluminum.
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Thought all Magnum's were 1985's. Also wasn't 1985 the first year for the E9-500?
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I am interested in a truck and spare engine that is in Canada for a personal restoration project. In talking to a few Canadian that are here in AZ for the winter it is not as easy as it used to be. One of these guys normally brings down a few cars to sell at the AZ auctions that just ended. Only this year was turned back at the border because the cars need to be impounded for 30 days to check VIN, EPA and DOT certifications. I understand the rules changed January 2016. What do you guys know about importing from Canada? Does the vehicle need to set at the border in impound for 30 days? What about an engine does it need to set there as well?
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I have seen it several times before on Ebay. There is a boat load of money in it and it is really nice. Hope he gets his price, it can only help raise the prices on these old trucks to what it cost to restore them. I do my trucks for preserving history and not for getting my money back, I never will, can't take anything with me in the end anyway.
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I'm sorry you had to see that. Will this help?
That is a nice twin bag system.. Beat it rides beautifully, has great rebound and is hard to ware out. And best will never be improved upon.
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I am looking for 2 Front Tow Clevises and Pins or one clevis and one Tow Eye.
FW
Good luck finding them. Had to weld and machine one of the two I have. Traded the last pin and clevis, about a year ago, that I had and it was really bent up. I'm still looking too.
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Shane
Think you are posting in the wrong section. If you are selling the parts they need a price.
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It's just for the cool look all of you!! It doesn't matter if the car is front wheel drive, it's the thought that counts. Prius owners aren't really that educated or know anything about the thing they drive. The owners manual is use to take up glove compartment space ONLY. If instruction do not come up on the in car screen display they don't exist!! No instruction for tire chains.. hope GPS works better...
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Thought that was a test run for the Mack submarine program that got shelved with VOLVO..... A Mack will go anywhere!!!
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I'm still running split rims on my RD822. Granted, tubeless are easier to change and repair but there is nothing unsafe about a tube type split ring rim.
Unless I was really concerned about keeping the truck 100% original, I wouldn't even consider copper lines. Not because it's unsafe, it's just because plastic is just so much cheaper and easier to install.
You did get what I was saying. Copper and split rims are not the norm and it does take extra care to maintain these components. Nothing wrong with them other than not many places will work on copper lines or split rims out this side of the country. If a shop will it is extra money or they rather refer another shop. No shop will work on my aluminum split rims on my LT. No shops ether with a pump stand to work on a modified mechanical pump here ether, had to send mine back to Ohio.
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Thanks for all the good advise. I wanted to use copper as it was original. The discharge line off the compressor is 3/4" A/C tubing which is thin and I suspect the weak link in the system. I saw some trucks at York last summer with what appears to be new copper tubing. I will have to rethink this.
You can get DOT copper but it is $$. If you were doing a static display or a trailered show queen the use of non approved lines may get you by but consider the liability if something happens. A DOT inspection may flag you as well.
I have a restored B that I wanted to drive so I went with plastic and tubeless tires. Most guys understand things like safety first. Copper and split rims are original but how many guys are still really using split rims these days too.
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The LT was designed for the west coat with longer WB for the times to take advantage of weight laws at the time. The use of aluminum was a 2000 lbs. savings for on the road units. All the off road and loggers did not use the aluminum components. The quality of casting back then was poor and they broke. Consider that there were only 2001 LT's built in approx. 12 years it was not a high production unit to start with compared to over 9,200 of the B70 series over a 12 year time period. The B was out on the west coast and did interstate duty it was the replacement for the LT. A L cab was an option until the end of production in 1966. There are B70's in California, Oregon,Washington. Lots of B70's in Texas too. That did short run and vocational work as well. I have a west coast B and I am asked why so long, I don't remember them being that long, it was the Cal, law's then.
Remember Mack was an East coast manufacture so there are far more of them the closer you get to the the east coast. Pete and KW plant where more central in the country and easer to distribute units and parts. It comes down to a geographical thing and time. Mack never was known as the over the road truck to have. More cement, dirt and gravel has been delivered by Mack's than anyone. Pretty sells, Pete & KW had that figured out long before Hayward.
Hayward was the attempt to get more placement out West and it was to little to late even with the Superliner as the flagship.
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What R is it?
Looks like a smaller engine one because of the shutter size. Every different R variation started with 1001. It is a piece of history but what one is it? My brother had the 1967, R719-1003 not the first but was close. It will never look like that R though, Very nice!!
Great job and a lot of work.
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Man that stinks, missed it by and hour. Thanks for the info but just sat down at the computer and went right to Ebay, it was gone. Anyone here get it? I got the clamp on tester that reads RPM and Timing. It should be fine but I would have bought it just to double check. I'll keep looking.
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Ya saw that Superliner Toterhome in the back ground. Love to have that! The Liberty is really nice too! Great job on that.
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Think it is mandatory to have the stainless flex line off the air compressor these days. As for the original look that is what it I did. Use plastic DOT tubing and covered it with cloth sheathing, covering. It is the same covering used on the trucks copper lines originally. The plastic is easier to work with and you can't really tell when it is covered.
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You need to use DOT plastic tubing. You can not use "regular" copper tubing. The old stuff was DOT approved copper and is very expensive if you can find it today. It is a liability issue so only use DOT labeled plastic tubing and fittings. If there would be an accident you may not have insurance coverage using non approved lines.
Maybe someone else can comment but I woulds not reuse old copper that would need to be re-bent ether, work harding and corrosion maybe an issue.
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Photo's or it does not exist!!!
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Us spoiled rotten, we have earned it and lived through the back when.. What about our kids... I have done OK and my kids think they can just take it from there, don't think so... First cars they got to drive, yes I cosigned for it, were stick shift. "Dad no one has a standard why do I" Because you need to be using both hands and feet and stay off the phone and once you lean you won't forget what a clutch is for. Working on things is making a phone call for service and opening the hood. Forbid if they had to drive some of the stuff we did. No power steering, no radio, no air ride and the all important A/C. Times have changed wonder what they will tell their kids about progress?
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I remember those day and nights when the way to see if the ignition was working. When something like this: Hey Tim grab that coil wire and let me know if you feel anything when I crank it... He flies out from under the hood and lands in his ass...Guess it's got spark must be the rotor or cap. We still try the simple stuff first, I liked it that way. I cant do anything with this new electronic stuff.
Tim was my 8 year old little brother when I was 16.
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That is another great Super, really. Just got to get the mirror dogs facing the right way. Wasn't this one restored a few years ago? I see the PA plate, think PA's got the most nice trucks of any state. Wish we had more meets and shows out west.
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Those things happen just not to me ether. It's like wine it get better and more expensive with age. I can't wait that long and drink it anyway...
Nice Super, glad it is in good hands. Sad you did not get the big bucks Tackaberry's is a dealer so probably not double.
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That green Superliner look pretty good to begin with. Those guy find some nice trucks to begin with. How long until we see the finished restoration?
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antique insurance
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
I have Hagerty for all my plus 25 year old stuff. Only thing is they do not want to do 35 years and newer class 8 trucks. The reason is that some 30 year old trucks are still out there making money. I had a little problem with my 88 Superliner (28 years old) but they did it once I told said I was dropping them and my other 8 vehicles coverage. You do need to have the truck under cover and preferable in a garage. NO money or any compensation, even a cup of coffee, for hauling ANYTHING. Also if you show the truck at a pay to view event (ATHS show) coverage is in question even if you do not get a dime. The trailer is a different story it is a 2014 so no Hagerty. It is insured with Travelers but only for theft and damage, no liability on trailer, it is all on the power unit. Same deal on the other trailers I have, they can't run into something without the tractor connected to it.