R.E.D

OK thanks I will trace it ..

Two wire ...and no float just the sensor that treads into the coolant tank

all fuses look good and yes the shutdown light is on constantly ? I been working like that but it just bugs the crap out of me having the light lit.....AND YES I could disconnect the bulbs but ill know its still there..still bugs me...

So I finally got all the dash lights in the RD working and noticed the lightening bolt on with Code 1-7 , which should be low coolant level.After checking the coolant tank and refilling it the light still remains.I disconnected the low coolant sensor and used a wire to complete the circuit but light still on.There seems to be no voltage in the connector whatsoever and I have traced the cable and can see no damage to it.So now what?

Does this affect my engine performance?

96 rd688s

350hp

I have 4.17 on my rd and im lookin for 4.64 ...if any on you guys would maybe like to swap let me know..only thing I need is for the rear axle to have or be drilled for a transverse torque rod bracket

Sure will...I just want be sure its going to be a direct drop in to the carrier...

This guy has loads of mack bogies stacked on top of each other

I was wondering cuz the guy that will sell me the diffs has a couple of dms or r models with transverse rods in both axles..

Yes all replaced 4 months ago...would I hav3 to put a transverse torque rod in the front axle also?

Im not entirely sure..but she has a short wheel base..loaded or unloaded the rear axles travel alot...thats why im lookin for diffs with transverse torque rod bracket...

I hit 65 with ease , even loaded. ..I have gotten her up to 67 in the hwy..im amazed how 7 gear takes me from 35mph to 53 mph then 8th gear takes care of the rest...

How much mph would I be loosing...the truck is very fast off a start...my brother in my ch 427 cant even give pose a challenge. .I like that ability of a 350 leaving higher hp trucks in the dust..

I checked the location and it seems like I have 4.17 rears...are these considered high or low? Could I swap them for ones that are a lil bit more dirt friendly...truck is 96 rd688s. T2090

great thanks I will check it out!

I know this has been thrown around plenty ...but where exactly is the tag in the axle that contains the gear ratio..im swapping my rear diff for one that has been factory drilled and tapped for the transverse torque rod bracket and I would like to be able to check the ratio in the axle that I plan to buy in order to match it to the ratio in the front diff....

Im doing this cuz it would be easier and cheaper to go to the scrap yard and swap the owner my working diff for one his ..just would have to pay a lil difference in price but definitely cheaper than drilling and tapping...

Also since im just swapping the diff itself and not the whole axle , would this be a direct drop in fitment or the axle and diff have changed over the years?.would I have to buy a corresponding 1996 model diff since that's the year model of the truck?

Please advice

RED

Ps:Picture is off the web and not the exact diff I would be buying.

I have the sam3 issue..need transverse torque rod and bracket

I Migth have used the wrong terms...but my rd has a cylindrical tank perpendicular to the frame..it sits outside of the frame and has a drain valve at the bottom...when I pull on this valve the grayish muck comes out

Oh and I solved the no start issue with the battery and by not filling up both fuel tanks to the neck. ..leaving no space for proper breath2

Guys thanks for the awesome advice. .However I think I found the culprit to the oil consumption ..and it was right under my eyes...

everytime I would purger the air drier by the purge valve I get a 6inch splatter of grayish muck...after close examination I saw the it was oil..and lots of it...seems like air compressor is a goner and will need rebuilding or replacing....I also saw oil coming out of one the rear brake chambers. ..

I reckon I purge the truck 6 times a day on a regular bases...each time about an ounce of muck comes out multiply this weekly and u get more than a gallon...this explains why it takes so long to build up air...my 427 ch build in no time and they idle at the same rpm...please advise

yup it does suck...this is a very solid dog and its a shame that it ran so long with low or no boost...who knows how much debris settled in the engine....

Enviorement is extrenely thick with dust and shifting did suck...it would take high rpms to shift in a split second. ..and yes there was a thin film of grit that had settled in the charge air cooler pipes...and it seems the hole was there for a good while too

...some genius had tried covering it with fiberglassand resin...I took it of and made short work of the

hole with my arc welder and aluminium electrodes. .

I will have this test done.charge air cooler was relatively dry..I had it welded the other day since it had a penny size hole where one of the mounting brackets had broke off...today I bought a battery since it was just running on 3...this should help with the no start issue since the 3 batteries seemed to weak to spin engine fast enough to build compression............

Jakebrake86 I definitely agree with u ..I would like to run it til she gives up but since I might be putting a driver on her I would like her to be in good shape. ! Since we all know that many drivers dont give a s### about equipment ...

i would like to check the compression on all the cylinders first since this is no easy task or bill...my local mack dealer quoted me 3800 for parts and 5500 in labor ..not including tax

my tanks are the 75 gallon aluminum ..I can see the botton clearly even when full if it had oil the diesel could be darkened by the oil contamination ...could it be that I used a thin oil for the mileage 15w40?I was told by a old timer that that could be the issue...

I would rather rebuild all while the engine is apart.Also whats the best way to test compression and where could I obtain compression tolerance numbers?