R.E.D

That's is not my pump. Took it off the Web to show where it was leaking from.mine is v-mac.has electronic throttle pedal .here's a dumb question. What's a rack actuator and what does it do?

Hello brettj3876.im also trying to get more grunt out of the old dog.i came across this on the web.i reckon it must be similar to blixton module except it's a switch on the fly.im not sure how well it works ,maybe someone here can tell us how good or bad it is.

RED

Thanks Paul for your explanation. So to get this straight ,I should start by getting the leak in the u shape fuel line then the return line from the pump?

RED

Thanks to everyone for replying.Once the truck fires it idles normally after 3 or 4 seconds.i thought about a broken tank pick up tube but the trucks uses all the fuel in the tank and never dies once it's running.i will try to take care of the leaks asap.i believe changing the fuel lines from pump to head from the two piece nut to the new style one piece should solve that leak.What do you guys think about the leak in the pic posted above?can that influence anything?

I have a bottom running exhaust and haven't really looked if any smoke comes out while cranking.the only thing I know about the heads is that they were sent to a shop to get worked on and they were brought back painted and cleaned.just now I got to the yard and it was around 65 degrees and didn't turn on.i used a shot of ether to get it going.

Im not sure if the injectors were changed at the inframe , but the heads were gone thru and fixed of any defects.Besides the hard start/no start issue is a trouble free truck.No smoke whatsoever and depending on air density 26psi of boost unloaded and 27 to 28 psi loaded.

Hi everyone

Since I bought my 96 RD it seems to start real rough when cold.I don't mean below zero but a slight chill (50 degrees) causes it to rough start like if the pistons were firing unevenly .Sometimes it wont even want to start , it would just crank until the batteries are drained.I would like to solve this issue since it creates a real PITA when you show up ready to work and truck wont start.Here are some facts that could narrow down the issue.

Batteries are new.

Starter seems kinda week compared to our other Ch's (96 & 98)

The u shaped fuel line between the two head is wet.

One injector line is also wet.

The nut in the front of pump also wet ( See Picture)

Truck has 50,000 miles on inframe and burns no oil.

Please advice on how to tackle this problem.

Thanks RED

Update.found it .mack says it's 81 bucks.i will provide a part number when I buy them for who ever wants to change them also.

Here is a vin of the truck in the picture above.ill try to get in touch with the mack dealer here and see if I can get anything

Thanks guys.i will try to get a vin from one of these trucks and see if I can order it through mack.

Hello everyone. I recently saw a rd with round headlights. In my opinion they look better than the squarish ones I have now. Plus I could get a set of those led headlights everyone is using nowadays. I would like to know if someone by any chance know the part # and the size headlights. Here is a pic of the truck i saw.

Thanks

Red

Thought I would give an update....swapped over to an eaton fuller trans and I'm back on the road....runs like a champ

high range 1 2 3 is 5 6 7 correct ? if yes , then all gears work when I flip the range selector up ..its just the 4 low range gears (lo 1 2 3 ) that grind while truck is in gear......Now what do you guys think about a t2080 trans ? found one at a good price and would consider swapping them...I drive mostly in the city below 55 mph..how would I be affected with this change? I have 417 rears

It only grinds in lo 1st 2nd and 3rd..High range is fine.....The Eaton is freshly rebuilt according to the seller....and only around 1500 with the mack bellhousing. .i did a trans change on my ch 427 like a year ago so I know how it all kinda works....just wondering how this 350 will do coupled with the Eaton and my 417 geats

So pretty much im screwed

so what needs to be replaced or repaired ?....I know these trans are really strong but I have also heard they can be a pita..I have a lead on an eaton RTLO 14609B for a good price and would like to know if repairing the t2090 is going to be not worth it in the long run.....I would like to keep the truck all mack but business is business and one has to make wise decisions....

It also whines considerably more during all the gears...i talked to the local trans shop and they say it might be something in the back end of the trans....The trans is the type which shifts Lo-1-2-3 Hi range 4-5-6-7-8.

Sometimes its grinding while in gear and it kicks it making the truck jump forward

It only does it in low range...no grind while going to high range...and it does less when loaded...how much I'm I looking at for this kind of repair?

Hey fellas...since this afternoon the truck has been acting weird. .t2090 grinds once in 1 2nd or 3rd..and won't move...it just sits there grinding In which ever of the of those 3 gears is is in..I had to take off on 4th in order to make it home..what am I looking at here?shift forks ? Syncro? I will check oil level but it should be fine..i replaced it when i replaced the clutch 4 months ago..can you all please help

Boost leak? Mine did that beacause it had a penny size hole in the charge air cooler

Have a good one guys...and careful with the storm for those of you in the east coast!

Not Mack although I like them.

Nice isnt that a kap3 or some like that?

Looking to buy a factory grill for 1996 rd688

I used a voltmeter and I got 4.6 volts...as soon as I grounded pin B..light went off..Easy fix...thanks for the help you guys ...One more thing of the list!!