Jump to content

r600

Bulldog
  • Posts

    150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by r600

  1. i have a 99 rb it turn better left than right does anyone have a idea why this is and whats the fix for this thanks guys brian

    check for broken centre bolt or bolt's in the middle of the spring pack-check for broken spring eyes or the wrap in the spring pack,also check stoppers on the stub axle as mentioned before if you do adjust keep in mind that on full lock there is a little mechanical advantage when the steering box is at full lock and truck is moving,if you adjust without engine running and lock them up and put on the ground and roll forward you will find you get a little extra ,also check tie rod ends and drag link ends

  2. Trent, I think, (but could be wrong) that the new style double pawl locking set was mandated for the 1973 model year. I remember when I was a teenager, (many years ago) retrofitting the older style latches to the new style. It would have been about that timeframe.

    Rob

    rob and trent my truck is 1976 and it has the same latch as trents truck?????

  3. yes your relay does ground to the injection pump that is the triger for the relay. and yes it is adjustable to a point!!

    What problems are you having? Is the engine brake sticking on?

    wasnt working now i have sorted wiring out it was soon as you turned dynatard on it was coming on then i removed wire off injector pump and now it wont do anything but if i earth it too the pump it works?how do you adjust the sender ?thanks adrian

  4. can anyone help someone told me the injector pump switch is adjustable is this true?also still having problems with the wiring can any help :wacko::blink: the relay in wired as follows terminal 30 power all the time-86 or 85 can be the earth or power from switch-87 power to dynatard.i have the earth off the relay going too injector pump??????is this correct :rolleyes::mack1:

  5. Last evening I went to a friends/customers house that is a grain hauler and "borrowed" one of his bottom dump trailers that had a load on it for testing and what an experience this was; The trailer had nearly a full load of corn and the V8 pulled it really well to my surprise! Until this experience I'd never had a trailer latched into the fifth wheel so it was completely new to me. I found out in short order that my transmission mounting biscuits are shot as the the shifters really move to the right side under power and there is a noticable clunk as they rub the mounting bolts upon upshifting. Several years ago I purchased a transmission isolator kit from the Mack dealer I used to deal with and now if I can just find them........ The Dynatard works well and as it should. I've never driven anything with a "Jake Brake" so there is really nothing to compare it to.

    I had Andy, (owner of the bottom dump) drive the truck if for no other reason to listen to him cuss a Mack and as anticipated, he did effectively. I found it irresisitable to not "badger" him about thinking he was a truck driver, as I could shift that transmission much better than he could. Fortunatly, it was a short run and I only lost a small portion of gear teeth but had a great time.

    I'm going to send the nozzels into the shop for testing/rebuild as this truck really smokes black under a pull with 25 plus psi showing on the boost gauge at about 2250 rpm. The pyrometer was showing about 950 degrees but I wasn't into the throttle long enough to know if it was still going to keep climbing or not.

    All in all, it was an exciting experience as this truck is going to be my daily driver if I can afford the fuel!!

    Rob

    rob,my dynatard relay has 4 terminals can you tell me where on your truck they go(tell me if i am right-30 positive power all the time /86 power from dash switch/85 earth to fuel pump/87 to dynatard sol?)thanks adrian :wacko:

  6. If it has a switch on the clutch pedal, then it's a Jake brake, not a dynatard.

    The Dynatard did not need a clutch pedal switch because the actuating switch in the governor turned the Dynatard off when the engine dropped to idle and the governor pushed the rack open for idle fuel, so there was no possibility of the Dynatard "stalling" the engine, hence no need for a clutch pedal switch.

    Dynatard and Jake brake circuitry is completely different.

    That said, if there's no power at the dash switch, start there.

    Check fuse or circuit breaker in that circuit, or look for a broken wire .

    If still no power to the dash switch, run a new power wire to it from a fused source and abandon the inoperative power wire.

    Check to see that the switch has continuity in the "on" position.

    Work your way on down the line, check for power at clutch switch, throttle switch, and at the terminals at the Jake spacers between the valve covers and the heads. Make repairs as necessary to achieve this.

    With dash switch on, clutch pedal up, and throttle at idle, you should have power all the way thru the system to the terminals on the spacers.

    Once you get this far, then try the Jake with the engine running, it should work, if not, the wires inside the Jake spacers could be broken, or you have defective Jake brake units.

    Last I heard, overhaul kits are still available for those Jake brakes.

    BIG THANKS TOO BOTH NOID93 AND ALSO HK TRUCKING i have got them working.run new power to dash switch and they work. hk trucking is there anyway buy looking at the rocker covers to tell if dynatard or jake?i think it is a dynatard just someone has fit clutch switch(i know no point) B) . it doesnt sound like jake brakes?????does the terminal on the rocker cover have power all the time waiting for the no fuel signal????thanks adrian

  7. can anyone help with problems i am having with my dynatard.it's need worked since i have owned it .i know the solenoid's are earth to work (i think).i bridged the clutch micro switch(didn't know if it was working properly)i have no power at dash toggle switch(dont know if it works on earth?)maybe its a relay inside cab where all the fuses are can anyone help?thanks adrian :D

  8. :mack1: It is hard to use one of them they tend to squeeze down, i mark a circle all way around with a pen. then drill about a 3/16 hole about 2 inches apart all the way around, then cut hole to hole with a hacksaw, i have done alot this way. Terry

    thanks again terry i will do this and let you know how i go :mack1:

  9. While true of natural rubber, or to an extent, Neoprene, oil/grease will soften and attack rubber where polyurethane, (of which the conversation speaks of) is impervious to attack from petroleum products.

    I actually use silicone grease, (dielectric compound such as used on spark plug boots) for lubrication of urethane parts. It keeps the speaking to a minimum long term.

    Rob

    thanks for all your comments.i have got new trunnion caps on the way and think i will change the red bush's to rubber. my parts man has told me the bush's only come in 8 1/4 or 6 5/8 but my red bush's are 7 1/2???can anyone help with the right bush maybe a part number . thanks again

  10. Each driveshaft must have the front and rear yokes aligned with each other. Usually there are arrows or a line scribed on the yoke and splined section. If the shaft yokes aren't in line it will cause a vibration and u-joint wear.

    thanks that helps heaps

  11. on your R ?? why do you need to know an what for ...can post u pics of mine , now stretchin chassi on mine so i,ll be changing it has youre been damaged or has it been fiddled with by someone ?
    i have stretched the chassis from 165 inch wheelbase to 195 the front shaft that i got second hand not sure where the rear yoke needs to be is it in line with the yoke on the gearbox?if you can send me some pictures of your truck maybe that may help
×
×
  • Create New...