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r600

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Posts posted by r600

  1. I agree. I don't have a preference for a 5 speed trans behind a 237 engine, but it sure is a nice exhaust tone due to the amount of time between shift points. A well maintained 673, or 711 also has a very nice sound.

    Another nice sound, (and noisy) is a 238 Detroit in a hill with a load on.

    Rob

    thanks rob,theakerstwo,hk trucking and also cml service for your thoughts,cml service-chuck do you have the part numbers for what you used and do you have any pictures?thanks all , :D adrian

  2. HK Im not so sure he can do that with a fuller trans!It is a can do with any mack trans thou.

    Regarding the rattle when the clutch is disengaged, are you sure it's not just the normal rattle of the centerplate when there is no tension on it?

    And you are correct !

    This may be a normal clatter

    hk i like what ur telling me re-fork remove but the rattles only when engaging the clutch(push the pedal down)thanks to all for your help adrian

  3. can anyone help my r-model clutch rattles when you depress it ,have looked inside inspection hole and carnt see anything wrong.it's roadranger rt915 the only thing i can see is the throw out bearing grease hose is broken and the grease nipple is at the top and you carnt get at it throw out bearing maybe dry???maybe i can remove the two half's of the throw out shaft and remove the fork and spin the bearing and grease????hope someone hasnt fitted clutch plate back to front????help please adrian :wacko::wacko::wacko:

  4. How are you Adrian? I used the gaskets with a light smear of blue silastic on both sides. Too much silastic will push the gasket out and try to split it. Id just fix the leaks and run it and go from there. It may have had a blocked breather at some stage. The crankcase pressure would have to be pretty severe to blow out that gasket. There is a clamp on a bolt for a water hose as well, it may have been loose or removed at some stage. Havent picked her up yet. It did come from mack newcastle originally but that was probably over 12 months ago. A mate of Dads in Albury bought it to restore it but recently passed away so Dad wound up with it. I think I know the truck you're talking about, 237 6spd? It looks very neat and the motor has been done up in their shop but old mate wanted 25 grand for it. Its still only an F model with a 237. I dont think he had too much idea he tried to tell me it had a quad box in it. Theres a truck show in Melbourne next week at Sandown. Have you heard of it? Mostly good old gear there

    thanks skip i'll use the gasket and check the other things you have talked about.i was over at mack last week and the f-model was parked over at the workshop and the next day it wasnt there???maybe sold 25 grand that big money.the show i havent heard about if you get any pictures i like to see,thanks again skip ,adrian

  5. Those gaskets seem to get very hard and brittle. They never get looked at so theyve probably been on there since day dot. Mack dont make a gasket they list a tube of silastic as the part number. Gleemans(PAI) list a gasket. If there was too much crankcase pressure the front and rear seals would probably let go first. Thats what happened to our F model. Also we had a battle trying to keep tappet cover gaskets in it. Does it use oil? It could be your compressor blowing past the rings

    hey skip,what's the best to use the silastic or the gasket form gleemans i have been getting heaps of stuff from gleemans so that not a drama.does it use oil????havent driven it only off the step deck i put it up with and straight into my shed.have you got that other f-model yet??did it come from mack newcastle???there has been one there for over 12 months???thanks adrian

  6. Check this number, MAK440SX30A, I found this number in the PAI catalog under miscellaneous door assembly components. You can see the catalog online, you'll have to sign up, but it doesn't cost anything. The only problem is they don't sell direct. However, they will direct you to an outlet that you can buy from. Just remember, their Mack parts are not OEM. That is not necessarily a bad thing since most of these parts were supplied by vendors anyway. Good Luck, James

    thanks james ,have tryed to look at the pai web site but havent signed up maybe i need too thanks anyway adrian :D

  7. FIRST which pump do you have robert bosch or ambac? If its ambc you likly need to replace the triger tab inside the pump! BUT you can try backing the screw out till it works correctly! loosen the jam nuts on the out side and back the screw out 2 or three turns rev the engine and let it off it the brake works but shuts down after half the rpm range then your half way there. turn the screw in 1/4 at a time till if at top rpm the brake dosent come on! Snap the throtle at the top rpms Quickly and hold it at top rpm if the brake trys to come on ,back the screw out sum more! If it dosent come on turn the screw in till it comes on!Ya hve to mess with it a bit to get it right if you cant acheave a desent set where the brake comes on then shuts off at aprox 1000 rpm you likly need to replace the triger tab!the Rob bosch pump is the exsact oposite!

    big thanks to FJH and also rob for all their help, have sorted the problem there was a problem with the earth wire to the pump shorted to earth found it, sorted it, all good.thanks again lads adrian :D:D:D:D

  8. That's the accessory relay.

    When you turn the key switch to the "on" position, that energizes the accessory relay which provides power to all the accessories that only have power when the key is "on".

    It's basically a "constant duty cycle" solenoid.

    thanks hk trucking dont seem to have any power when the keys in the on position.many thanks adrian B)

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