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r600

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Posts posted by r600

  1. The pump coupling is or should be keyed to the pump shaft DO NOT remove the little round front cover

    in front of the engine and tamper with any bolts if you want to preserve your timimg ,just undo the the three that hold the pump to the block as mentioned the splined coupling has a dowel! the pump will only go in one way easily DON't FORCE it or try pulling it in with the bolts! Apon reassembly assemble with a new gasket the gasket will come with 2 holes in it one big one small!Cut the gasket from the outside of the big hole to the outside of the small oil return hole at the bottom both sides and remove the v shaped peice this will put a stop to any possible oil leaks at the gasket site!DO NOT JUST USE silicone! You'll hate yourself.

    fjh,had the pump off my truck ,and the new gasket from mack already had the gasket make that way so i didnt have to modify it,cheers adrian

  2. Hi there,

    I have done similar to your suggestion in the past and it usually works well on stuck items. I've used two hammers on frt end parts to automobiles and light trucks for years. Nothing gets bent from the force that way.

    I don't have anyone around the shop any longer and my wife was busy with other things so I had no help at the time.

    I really need to invest in some larger tools as I've never really "geared up" to work on these antiques until now. Had a friend that ran a small fleet of class 6, 7, and 8 trucks but we have parted company, (my choice) that had whatever I needed.

    If I can get my daughter to hold the second hammer tomorrow, I'll get them free.

    Thanks for your help.

    Rob

    hey rob ,are you trying to pop the tie rod end off the hub or remove the tie rod end from the tie rod??if your trying to pop the tie rod off the hub can you put a long bar over the top of the tie rod and under the axle and get someone(maybe daughter)to pull down,if possible put 2 jaw pull on the tie rod end and give it heaps,then get that hammer while helper(daughter too pull down as you hit),good luck adrian
  3. Hi All

    I,m looking for the 2.5 inch clear park lights next to the headlight on an R600

    The original ones were surface mount with removable lens and bulb. All I can find are sealed units that require a grommet to mount them which in turn needs a 3 inch hole to be drilled in the hood. This is something I don't realy want to do!

    Any help would be great

    Thanks Steve in Australia

    hey steve i also need those lights,just looked at the hella web site,they had blinker or blinker with clearance but not the clear lens?maybe i'll email them and let you know,cheers adrian

  4. Remove all of the fuel lines first. Then remove the rear most bracket from the pump, then the three bolts that retain the pump to the engine. The pump will then slide to the rear of the truck with clearance from the compressor. You will probably need to "tilt" the pump upwards, and roll a bit at the rear but it will come out without much trouble. It is heavy so be properly braced.

    Rob

    thanks rob,what about timming marks or is the pump on a master spline???thanks agian adrian

  5. That piece of widow retaining moulding does not use a separate "locker strip". With the kind displayed, you simply push the lower part under the upper part until is stays. Keep an eye on the "indented" edge of the lower part until it is hidden under the upper part.

    This type is not original to the truck. All "locker strips", or "beads" are mounted to the outside of the truck body for the correct moulding. There is no reason this type would not work with the exception of the divider post that separates the two windshields. I've seen a home made division bar solvent welded in the center that worked though.

    The original type moulding is not very expensive and I recommend it's usage.

    Rob

    thanks rob ,for your information didnt notice that that lower lip lock into the upper to act as locking strip,this rubber shown is what mack australiatold me suits my truck off the chassis number????thanks again rob and also li trucker B)

  6. ive got a 97 ch613 with 46k rears on hendrickson walking beam suspension. my problem is the tandems bounce between 60 & 70 mph.had it to a shop and they say everything [ bushings, springs] are fine. i can see them bounce in the mirror, so its no little thing. its shaking my truck apart, i need help...............thanks

    hey redman ,what condition are your tyres like,recap or cleanskins?check your tyres for ply seperation (big lumps in the tread or side wall)does it have shocks???adrian

  7. WHAT YEAR R MODEL there are a few diffrent latches throught the years of production. if its a mid 70s-80s it likly has the same striker as mine.. You just need to move the striker up a hair and angle it around untill the door shuts right. also the latch in the door may be worn? I have an issue with my pass side door and its a Real PITA to adjust. every year I have to move it around to get it back to normal.

    Trent

    trent ,the year model is 1976 but think you posted or maybe hk trucking something about this topic before and rob about different years different latchs mine i think was what rob said the older type??rob said different because australian reg's different to usa .thanks adrian

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