CML Service
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Posts posted by CML Service
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Hi folks,
I spent a good part of the day looking over my parts and parts trucks for enough rod ends and ball studs for my current project. But I may come up short for the next one. I have to imagine with all the trucks, tractors, and other equipment out there that use this style rod end there still must be a source for them. It seems there are plenty for the pickups and vintage cars. Any ideas or sources?
Chuck
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Hi Folks,
I finally got the pictures I promised. You can find them in my album B61S ready to work. I hauled a load of scrap with it this past Saturday. All went very well. Folks at the fuel stop and the scrap yard seemed to really enjoy seeing it. Several people wanted to talk about it. Boy that makes ya feel kinda good! This week it will be a much heavier load I'm hoping for near 20 tons. That will be a better test of it's performance.
Chuck
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Finally after 10 months in the barn my B61 has been converted to a truck tractor. I'm now working on the last items on the punch list but I did get to take it for a ride pulling my dump trailer. It felt good and I'm very happy I spent the time and money to convert the air system to a primary and secondary system like newer trucks with relay valves. Now the brake timing is perfect for pulling a newer trailer also spring brakes on all four rears makes you feel confident. The power isn't much but I guess thats what the quad box is for. Having working gauges is also a plus and even with a 7.00 rear ratio 50+ MPH on a secondary road was no problem (untill you hit a hill). I'll try to post some pictures soon.
Chuck
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The loose wedges and a drive around the yard will probably loosen them. Then the next problem willl be the spacer. A good air hammer with a flat hammer on the spoke may help. Then when the spacer is off I like to go over every spoke with my needle scaler. That really cleans the spokes nice. The hopefully if the inner wheel is broken free it will slide right off. Good luck.
Chuck
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Well I guess I'm not the only one looking for this stuff. I do have some old Mack part mumbers for the welting on the B models I'll check into that. I also went to a local industial supply that specializes in power transmission belts. They seem to have many different options. They are going to check price and availibility for me (the right guy was on vacation). I'll let you folks know what I find out.
Chuck
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Hi folks,
I was wondering what to use for insulating my fuel tanks and brackets. Very little is left of the old stuff and tanks are starting to move around. Also what about the straps what should I use there.
Thanks Chuck
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Hi folks,
Have any of you changed windshields in a CH? It doesn't have a key strip in the gasket. Any suggestions? Do both have to be done at the same time? I've done smaller one piece ones with this type of gasket by wrapping the gasket channel with wire. But this one seems to be a bit large and awkward for this technique.
Thanks for any help. Chuck
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The torque on the U-bolts is 1400 ft-lbs. and shouldn't be less on a hard working truck.
Chuck
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Just a couple things to add to what Herb said. The retainer looks like the early factory type. The 3/4" rod goes thru to the other side. If the truck isn't going to work hard consider trying to save the U-bolts. They cost arount $180 for the set. Use only new if it is a working truck. Then the bushings come in several different lenghts. Bring the saddle to a good spring shop and they should be able to suppy the correct ones. There are also two spacers inner and outer they need to be checked for wear as well as the saddle where they contact on hard turns. And lastly the spring needs to fit the saddle with little to no side clearance. Many of these wear points need to addressed in relation to how the truck will be used. Don't take shortcuts on a hard working truck or it may dissapoint you.
Chuck
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Hi Folks,
After talking with Speed about the trucks I've done with hydraulic brakes I remembered they have a web site. So far I built one complete and one cab chassis only for this customer. These trucks are busy all the time sometimes doing two parties each per day.
I closed my business over two years ago but still keep in touch with this guy. I was just there to help him with a couple minor problems last week. Since I built the trucks what may be difficult for others is easy for me. Hope you enjoy. www.biggreentruckpizza.com
Chuck
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Hi Speed,
I've never worked on Mack hydraulic brakes but I've worked on others of that vintage. Often the rust will build up between the shoe and lining causing brake drag. The adjusters are generally in two groups, Major and Minor. Major adjusment is for initial set up then minor is for maintenance. One that I have worked on is the Wagner Hi-Tork. That type has five adjusters per wheel and you set the shoe clearance to the drum with a feeler gauge through the backing plate. I have many of the old Motor manuals that cover these early brakes if you need info.
As for master and wheel cylinders. My persomal preference is to send them out to be bored and sleeved with brass. I've done a couple trucks that way and it works well. You never have to worry about corrosion in the cyls again. I have the name and number of the shop I used if you need it. The ones I did were 46 and 47 IH KB5. I did these two trucks for a customer who uses them for his catering business. These trucks run nearly every day and with all the equipment weigh in about 15,000. The first one I did actually made it into Wheels Of Time in a feature article.
Send me a email if you need any more info.
Chuck
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Chuck what kind of shape is the interior in? Would you be interested in selling any of it? And where are you located? Thanks Block
The interior is pretty basic, no padded door panels. The headliner and dash look OK but dirty not sure about the back panel. Let me know what you need I also have other junk cabs. I'm in Hamden CT. Feel free to call. 203-641-4419
Chuck
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Hi Rob,
This R700 is a 78. It's mostly complete only a few pieces have been picked from it, like the grill and headlight bezels. Let me know what you need and I will try to help you with it. You can feel free to give a call if you like 203-641-4419
Chuck
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I've got a 866 V8 in a R700 and with the turbo on the back it takes up all the space provided by the longer hood. The R 700 is a parts truck I just brought in so I don't know much about it but I could take measurments . Or even put it side by side with my 1966 R609.
Chuck
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You may want to check with Mack. There have been some updates required for that trans. Not too long ago I did one for a customer that had a similar problem with a 18 speed in a CL700. There were changes to the range shift clutch pack and the air cyl. Mack will need your vin number and maybe the 11KBA number from the trans.
Chuck
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I've dealt with a few stuck plungers lately. If you pull the side cover and see one of the springs compressed and not touching the lifter that could stick your rack. I usually put a screwdriver between the coils and ligtly tap down with a hammer. I've had good success with Mack pumps that way. Didn't have good luck with a pump on a Deutz as soom as I touched it with the hammer the plumger broke and the spring snapped open. That pump turned out to be beyond help though heavy corrosion everywhere. The big thing here though is patience. Like Herb said take some time use plenty of pentrant and be sure things work smooth without sticking especially the shutdown.
Chuck
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The cast trunnion A frames do often crack near the tube. They do take a weld very well if you clean them up stop drill the crack and vee it for the weld. Best way is to remove them to do this.
Chuck
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Hey Barry ,
Cool link. Check out the picture on the first page 3rd line 2nd in. B61 in police Acadamy. Something is a little different about the wipers.
Chuck
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Be careful mixing radials and bias. I did it for a while on my R model single axle dump. No problems empty but loaded on the highway was a different story. I had radial on the front and bias on the rear. Lots of sway during lane change and exit ramps could be scary.
Chuck
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Herb, I agree with your thoughts on upgrade. Also you may be correct about the support rods. I seem to remember in 1988 some rads had cast tanks and some were frame mount for air to air intercooler and 4 valve engine.
Gees it seems like yesterday these were the NEW trucks for the fleet I worked on!!!
Chuck
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Something doesn't look right here. That looks like the small radiator from a R400 and the fan doesn't have a fan clutch. What is the history of this truck?
Chuck
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Thanks Trent,
I plan to install a two line system just for that reason. I found my good 50 gal tank today. I cut a large hole in the top to clean it and to weld supports for the feed and return piping. I've seen some tanks crack at the bung when valves piping and hoses hang on them. I'll post some pictures while I'm working on it.
Chuck
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Thanks for the input folks. I think I will try to use the 50 gal tank that way there will be air space even with 45 gals of oil.
Chuck
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Hi Trent,
Are you saying you are running your system with 40-45 gals ? I was thinking of mounting another fuel tank on the driverside. I have a nice 40 gal tank fuel removed from another truck but I was thinking it may be too small. I think I may have a 50 gal still on a truck that matches the drivers side tank. This is one of my B models and it has 50 gal lf 40 gal rt.
Chuck
Mack Gasoline Engines
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
Early R400 could be had with a Chrysler 413. Is that what you are thinking of? 414 was a IH farm and industrial 6cyl. diesel.
Chuck