engine2quarters

Does it make a difference if it is an EN-330 or a M330? Just wondering. Looks like distributor can be put in 180 degrees out if not careful. Check #1 cyclinder vs the rotor position.

Does it make a difference if it is an EN-330 or a M330? Just wondering.

At a local truck show, today, I was talking to a State Police person. He confirmed the brake shoe 'pad' measurement requirement, but it was s imple job. A couple of minutes at the most. Just measure the shoe in the rear brake inspection port. But, what if you don't have an 'inspection port'? Do ALL trucks have rear brake inspection ports? We're talking 1945, non-air brake vintage, now. Any incite?

And Mass. is sooooo strapped for money to pay for the programs they have now, if they let things alone, they'd be making money. But, nooooo. Now, a proposed 6.25 per cent sales tax (up from 5%). Or a 19.5 cent increase in fuel tax. They just added a $1.00 more tax on tobacco products on top of what they had before. Tax candy and soda? Boston Globe (if it survives) will be going up to over $4 for the Sunday paper (now $2.50). Same with the Boston Herald. Getting to the point where we may have to take the antique car and the 2 antique trucks and the family car off the road and walk or ride the bike to shop, just to balance the books. Loss to the state of gas tax revenue, inspection fees, and excise taxes. It will add up if enough do it. Suppose they'll find a way to tax the old bikes and 'shoe leather', now. But, alas, we need to have a registered vehicle (with sticker) so we can get rid of our trash at the recycle center. Can't bring it there on the bike. Can't walk in with it, either. Have to have a sticker to get in, and stickers go with registered vehicles. Another well thought out program, Ollie.

A bit of background........Up in Massachusetts, the Registry of Motor Vehicles has installed a new 'vehicle' inspection program, as of 2009. I believe newer vehicles that have on board dignostics (OBD) are the only ones that go thru the emmission tests. My 1985, 1983, and 1945 only have a safety check. We have encountered problems when having antique trucks inspected, those having antique plates or year of manufacture plates. My truck weighs in at 16,000 pounds, gvw. The registry says that we will have to go to an inspection site that inspects 'commercial' trucks and have a 'commercial inspection done'. This inspection is done on the basis of Federal regulations. The 'Registry' advise us that the rear wheels will need to be removed so that the brake linings can be measured, at additional cost, upwards of $100 plus the cost of the sticker. Our antique trucks are issued 'antique' plates, and designated PASsenger by the Registry on the registration slip. Where can I find the 'Federal' rules for inspecting trucks (DOT inspections), including the definition of what is covered under the heading of "Commercial Vehicle"? I think it is going to be an 'uphill' discussion. I get the feeling that the 'Registry' thinks that antique plated vehicles only weigh under 10,000 pounds, according to the new regulations. Come to think of it, the new regs don't even mention the term 'antique'.

My 1945 EN-330 is still running on 2 (or is it 3) year old fuel. We don't get out (and run) that often. Brownish looking stuff. I do use stabilizer for over the winter and I replace the fuel filter every spring. It will get an infusion of 20 gallons of new fuel this weekend, if the gas station down the street re-opens. Their fire suppression system has gone off twice in the past 3 days, for no apparent reason. I find that the condensers fail quite often, so I make sure that I have a complete tuneup kit hidden in the truck's storage compartment, ie plugs (pre-gapped), points, cap, rotor, condenser and working flashlight. NAPA is a good source, the caps come from Mexico, special order. I had the same problem as Fred had until I shortened up all the battery cables and used 1/0 welding cable. I made sure that I had only ONE battery ground contact point, which was at the starter attachment bolt. Any frame grounds were then connected to it. The more connections you have, the more chances that they are high impedance and will reduce your starting power. A 6-volt system doesn't need to loose much voltage until it is rendered useless. Breaker points can be set using a match book cover, or a business card. I have used a 12-volt jump start a couple of times, and never removed the gas guage from line. Once the engine was started, I quickly removed the 12-volt source. Tow truck operators, nowadays, scratch their heads when they have to jump start a 6 volt vehicle. All they have available is 12 volt.

I pulled my transmission a couple winters ago in a 1945 Mack type 45, because the clutch plates were stuck together and wouldn't come apart. Luckily, I had a 'cousin' that worked at a local truck repair shop that had a large transmmission carrier. We pulled the tranny and the truck jumped up 2 inches from the loss of weight. Removed the clutch mechanism and had it remanufactured locally. Had a bear of a job putting the tranny back in since the truck was now positioned differently. THe transmission did have several adjustments. We remembered to put several steel dowels in several of the mounting holes when we took it out, so the tranny slid in after a fashion. The truck was not on a lift. Everything was done from a concrete floor in a heated garage, on our backs. Ugh! While you're at it, check the condition and amount of fluid in the tranny.

I had a somewhat similiar experience. My truck is original 6 volt positive ground. I tried starting the truck one day, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. I tried it again, the engine wouldn't budge. Thought it was a connection problem, as you all suggest. Un did all the connections, cleaned them and retightened. Still nothing. I tried to see if the starter was any good using an ohmmeter to check for continuity. Nothing. Brought the started to a rebuilder who found that the flex strap from the voltage terminal to the winding had come unsoldered. Unsoldered due to the high current drawn and the low terminal voltage present at the starter. Five minute solder job and replacement all the starting curcuit cable with good size multi strand welding cable, using the shortest path, I haven't had a problem since. And boy, does that 6 volt engine turn over fast now.

That's what I did for my little Mack. Brought the distributor numbers to NAPA and with a little hunting, found everything. It did help that we found someone that knew what we were looking for.

Breaker gap .018 - .024 inch. About the thickness of the cover of a book of matches, I've been told.

Werkhorse got them. My 1952 issue of the Motor's Manual Lists Valve Clearance Intake .007 - .009, Exhaust .024 - .026, all HOT, no COLD. Wonder why the difference. You'd think ALL EN330 engines would have the same specs, atleast from the factory.

Haven't forgotten you. Just can't find the right book yet.

Congradulations on the fire truck save. I've got a 1945 EG with the EN330 engine, so I should have some info around the office here someplace. I'll check the books tonite and see whot I can come up with. Keep an eye out for a Motor's Repair Manual. They're getting scarce and fetching a big buck, too. I'll let you know what I find out. jim (mass)

Fred...I'm having problems sending you some info in reply to your note. I'll try later, but so far your rinsing out the pump has removed some stuff. Let the water sit for awhile, then rinse it out again. More info to follow. jim

Nice '41. Saw it on ebay last week. Almost bid on it but it came without the engine, supposedly. Which pump handle snapped, the one down by the running board, under the pump? Snapped off where? All it is is a solid steel shaft with a small bend in it. The small flange on the pump end has a cable eye (for clutch engagement) and slider (into the pump transfer case) I think. I had some extra parts from the pump engagement lever of an old Mack stored some place here. Let me know where it snapped and we'll go from there. Did you get an engine with it?

I suspect parallel for 12 volts. Parallel for more amps. Are the lights, etc. 12 volts? Making the batteries in series ()24 volts) would burn out your (12 volt) bulbs and other electric stuff.

Might want to check in with the SPAAMFAA group at www.SPAAMFAA.org . Their membership should have similiar trucks. The Mack Museum may also be able to help you out.

Make sure the rechromer is trust worthy, has many current references. Keep an itemized list of each item sent. Get an itemized list from the rechromer, not a 'batch' price. A local antique fire truck owner decided to get some stuff rechromed last year. Most of it was that dark/light brass which couldn't be shined up. Only options were either paint it or chrome it. Most of the stuff was in pairs, ie. pair of headlight bezels, pair of hood 'half dogs', etc. More than half of his stuff disappeared. It's strange that he did get back one headlight bezel and one hood 'half dog', though.

I got a water pump rebuilt at O&G Water Pump Co., in Lubbock, TX for my '45 Mack EN330 engine, last year. Not cheap, but cheaper than a replacement that 'might' fit. With a new pulley assembly, $330 shipped, 2 year/24,000 mi warranty. (806) 744-5870 or 1-800-365-1981. Took about 2 weeks complete turnaround. Biggest delay was the UPS shipping.

Have you tried to cross reference to a WIX filter, or some other manufacturer?

Stan...couple of ideas for transport. Check in with www.SPAAMFAA.org, and look for the local club. New Hamp has the Amoskeag Club. Mass has the Mass Antique Fire App group. Mass group has a couple of flat bed owners that I know of Also, check www.ATHS.org, and look for the local clubs, again. jim @ e2q

In the great state of Massacusetts, my 1945 Mack EG (16,000 gvw) costs $40 per year for antique plates, plus about $250 to $300 for insurance, not using antique insurance firms. Using commercial plates would be based on registered gvw weight, plus a big insurance bill. We have 'year of manufacture' plates available, but I do not know what their impact is to costs. Annual inspection costs $29, with my type of plate. Luckily, the truck fits into the 'local garage' inspection bay, so I don't have to make a special trip to a bigger garage. Plus it's not diesel, which presents another inspection problem. The 'inspector' laughs when I come to get a sticker. What could go wrong when your yearly total mileage is under 100 miles, under 200 if you have a busy 'parade' season. Some restrictions apply, like under 2500 miles, use for club or education purposes, not used for everyday transport, etc. With antique plates (25 years old or older), no CDL needed.