other dog

Oh, here's the latest latest update, what I came here to post-

Just now, Mark T said:

I was just looking.  They're on there.  Looks like around a K for a brand new aluminum one (yikes)   Your tank looks maybe like it's from a Fleetstar (?)   

Wow! Yeah, I didn't even know where to look, I just googled "replacement fuel tanks" or something. I don't know where he got this tank from that's on it now.

4 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Ok, someone put a newer tank on there. Step tanks up to the late 70's have the Tolhiem access plate, as both Ford and IHC big Gassers used that in tank pump. That tank is from a later year, when the gassers were no more and diesel was the fuel of choice.

 When you put it back, do yourself a favor and either get some strap webbing or make some by cutting an old inner tube to put between the strap and tank. Everything flexes and it will rust and wear a hole under the strap.

Yes, he put a tank on it that had only had diesel in it, because he was having trouble with rust in the original gas tank. Said it was all fixed now. Imagine that! I guess I don't have rust problems anymore, I have sludge problems! 🤣 

10 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Might be better off just replacing the tank. Used to see them advertised in all those magazines that used to come for free.

I thought about that, I looked online this morning, didn't really see anything close to what I've got.

18 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

What you showed in the alu pan doesn't look like rust chips. So my guess the things are much better than I expected. There's probably no need to sandblast or gravel wash the inside. Just some heavy cleaning agent of those the guys mentioned and you must be fine.

My issues were concerning heavy rust on the inner walls which chipped off and clogged filters or needle valve and duses in carbs. I have friend's Mercedes 280CE car of 1972 in my stable for a while and it used to ruine electric fuel pumps. When we removed its tank initially and my guys drained it I couldn't belive my eyes. There was a 10 liter can filled with gas which was HALF FULL of rust chips! We sure cleaned the tank as good as we could that time but the pumps have continued giving up the goasts. So I found a good replacement one and going to swap it. Ok, I'm going to do that for no less than 6 years now 

That's true about the aluminum pan, I didn't even think it looked that bad last night, and I couldn't believe it this morning. It didn't even look like gas anymore. It has water or something in it. And that sample didn't even come from the very bottom of the tank, when I got it off and tilted it up all kinds of nasty looking, filthy, dirty, horrible, disgusting stuff was coming out of the hole 🤣 

2 hours ago, Mean Green said:

Your doing the best thing drain it clean it and new gas it seems once it’s bad if you don’t take it all out the new gas ain’t no good either my dad had worked on his sisters blazer and he replaced everything to get it to run right fianly drained the tank empty and put in fresh gas and it ran great went to use the old gas in his mower and it couldn’t even run on it . Wonder if you used some muratic acid on it to clean the rust out may have to cut it some it’s kinda strong

I used the aluminum brightener, and it seemed to work pretty good, but i'm going to do it again. I ordered the sealer and it won't be here for a week, so I have time. I can still see black gunk stuck in the bottom of the tank. I didn't leave the acid in it for any length of time, I just poured it in, sloshed it around as best I could, took all the plugs out and started spraying.

Here's the latest update

Had a bit more gas in it than I thought.

Here's the latest update- I drained some gas out of it last night. Put it in this new clean aluminum pan. 

After sitting on the porch overnight, covered and untouched, it looked like this this morning.

So yeah, I have issues. I'm going to go drain it now and try to get it off. Here's the filter I took off the other day, looks like more gunk has settled in it.

I talked to Brayden Tucker, who buys, sells, deals, and restores old trucks about cleaning and sealing the tank. He said the best thing he had found was the acid like you spray on aluminum, the brightener, I forgot what you call it. He said to pour some of that in it then pressure wash the crap out of it, let it dry good, then put the sealer in.

4 hours ago, Vladislav said:

I had someone

This is about where I'm at now. I'm going to end up taking the tank off, if I can. I started it today to turn it around and same as yesterday before I changed the filters- it would not run at all unless I sat in it with my foot on the gas. I looked in the tank with a flashlight and some some sketchy looking stuff swimming around in the bottom. I only let it run for a few minutes yesterday, I wouldn't think the filters would clog that fast, but I don't know. I'm going to take Fuzzy Buzzard's advice and start with the tank and go to the carburetor. I don't know if I can wrassle that tank off by myself or not, but I'm gonna give it a try.

Danged old trucks!

3 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

what a lucky and fortunate person YOU are to have such an understanding and beautiful lady willing to share a passionate hobby with. should I make the trip to NC to see my younger sister ; have high hopes of meeting You also Sir. nice truck

Thank you very much. 

22 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uAGdnXacVi3Fz2Gn9

O.D.  this one is for you,,  and Bob, you may like it too..  O.D. got me inspired to cook over wood last year..  The jerky is Venison, the legs.... are... ...well ...  chicken.  homemade marinades, and glaze.    thanks O.D. 

Looks fantastic! I smoked a couple of Boston butts Friday for a cookout we had Saturday.

1 hour ago, Brocky said:

I know it is more expensive, BUT use ONLY non-ethanol gas!!!!!!!!! It will save you a lot of problems down the line... Just ask my Diamond T how I know!!!!!!!!!!

Yessir, that's all I use in my small engines and I had a full can here I just got a couple of weeks ago. I filled the mower up and poured the rest in the truck. They have it just up the road at Sheetz in Concord, and it's 90 octane too. As soon as I get tags on it I'm going up there and full it up. Stevie also recommended that I put a lead additive in it too, so I'll get some of that somewhere.

1 hour ago, Geoff Weeks said:

It is my understanding that the LV (as well as Ford SD) have in tank Tolhiem  fuel pumps, no? so at least the evaporation problem that many of us struggle with (fuel evaporates from the carb, fuel pump) is a non issue and should prime quickly.

 I have similar step tanks on my K and similar rust problems. You can increase the filter size or keep many on hand. Clear filters can help see the problem before it plugs.

I like the way he had the fuel pump and filter setup. The original fuel pump is disconnected and he mounted an electric fuel pump near the tank, with 2 filters before it gets to the pump. It has a pressure regulator on the carburetor that the fuel line from the pump connects to. 

And the filters are clear, the ones I ordered are clear, and where they go in the line they're super easy to get to, so you can change one in about a minute.

23 hours ago, Vladislav said:

The truck does look darn good in your drive way Tom!

Congrats!

Usually my feelings in such a case are high exciting right after purchase than light dissappointment on the day after with a thought of "What have I bought that thing for?" Than usually the things and thoughts get in order a few days later with no sorries on the done. 

Thanks Vlad, that's kind of how it was. He told me at first that you had to pull the choke out a little for it to run right, even after it had warmed up. And he said when he delivered it that he still had "rust in the gas tank" issues, and he had about 3 or 4 extra in-line filters in the side box. I thought he had told me on the phone that those issues were fixed after he put a tank that had only held diesel fuel on it.

So I went out and started it the night we got it just to look at the lights and I couldn't keep it running long enough to get out of the truck. Started it again yesterday and same thing, I could keep it running as long as I sat in it patting the gas but that was the only way. Zina was a bit pissed, she was about ready to call the guy and tell him to come get it. But I changed the gas filter and it started right up and sat there and idled fine. 

It has a plug in the bottom of the tank, if I don't get it straightened out I might just pull that plug out and drain the tank. Might put a bottle of Heet in it before I do that though. I don't want to mess with that plug unless I have to. And I just poured a 5 gallon can of non ethanol gas that I had for the lawnmower in it after I changed the filter.

Gas looks more like coffee than gasoline.

On 4/5/2024 at 4:58 PM, BOBWhite said:

Oh Yeah, The Truck!  I don't remember asking if it has airbrakes but seeing the horn made me wonder. All the Loadstars I've been around have juice brakes and since IH is gone you can't easily find rebuild kits. 

Yes, it has air brakes.

8 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

In the above quote, I was talking about shifting the rear only.

Like any compound shift, you need to take into consideration what is happening ratio wise.  If you pre select a compound shift (moving trans and rear) like any other you can get caught with neither in gear. I will upshift the trans, and down shift the rear as I complete the shift. So double clutch upshift, when letting the clutch out when in higher gear, make the change on the rear. This means a larger drop in engine RPM to make the shift in the main but gets speeded up before load is on it.

 How wide the step also plays a part, My K's have a big step between 3rd and 4th, you need to downshift the rear making that jump, if you pre-select low range when you 1st break torque, there is nothing to speed the driveshaft up to match the rear low ratio to what the driveshaft is spinning. If the engine is against the gov, you can't speed up the driveshaft, so neither will go into gear.

 Kinda like shifting a 13 speed, make the main upshift 1st and the rear ( or in case of the 13, splitter gear)2nd.

 Sound more difficult than it is, but with a gas engine the ratio jumps tend to be bigger than with a close ratio box with a diesel. Most gassers have a 5 main and 2 spd rear,  many diesels may have a 5 speed main and 3 spd aux. for the same ratio spread.

A little time in and becomes 2nd nature.

 

Oh. Thanks for the info, I just need more seat time to get used to the truck now.

16 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Brocky,

 I can see where flipping something on the dash might throw off timing. On my K's I pre-select,so on upshift there is already vacuum at the diaphragm, and once torque load is off the gears the shift takes place. downshift is a little more tricky, as you have to "break torque and quickly raise the engine speed to complete the shift.. Both ways are pre-selected.

 In the Marmon, with the gov diesel, it is a little easier to control the engine rpm, than it is with carb'd gas.

So that's another thing I was wondering about. When you shift the transmission to a higher gear they recommend that you shift the transmission first, then shift the axle to low just before you let the clutch out. I have also seen people move the button first every time and it worked just fine, real smooth. So it doesn't hurt anything to pre-select every time?

2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Right kind of wheels, non syncro, 2 spd rear.... Life is good!

Air, electric or vacuum on the 2 spd shift motor? Air is my 1st choice, vacuum 2nd and electric last.

It has the air shift, that's a first for me too. I've driven the vacuum and electric shift 2 speeds before and the vacuum shift seemed to work better. But I never really drove any truck with a 2 speed rear enough to master it.

On 4/2/2024 at 12:11 PM, other dog said:

Welp, the folks at Lynchburg Nissan called back. They said it looked like a mouse had made a nest in the air box, and damaged a "something or other" sensor, so they're going to clean it, fix it, and put a new air filter in it. None of which is covered by the famous "Mabry Million Mile Warranty".

"No ma'am, it doesn't cover rodent damage". 

I don't think it was mice, I'd be more inclined to believe it was these squirrels and chipmunks that are always running around out here.

Cost about $300 to pay for the rodent damage.

A 1 second video of the truck running...or just audio I should say.

5 hours ago, Brocky said:

That much weight on a tag-along trailer behind a 3/4 ton pick up????"? Better him than me!!!!!!!!

Well, you know Rob used to haul an R model behind his Dodge pickup.