Challenger

Have seen egr valve fail and cause #5 injector to code up also.

Thats good to know.

It sounds like a TCM problem. The VECU is just telling you it lost road speed which goes through the TCM. Either way its probably a problem to be sent out. Sounds like you exhausted all means of diagnostics provided to you. Good luck.

Is it a garbage truck? I've seen trash trucks with high idle switches wired in the cab, left front of body, and right rear of the body, maybe a shorted switch?

Does your clutch pedal switch kick out your cruise control when its operating normally?

I think that is a loss of power code. Check your battery connections and your trans fuses. I think the trans fuse is in the top middle dash fuse panel. Check there and also EPDM fuses down by the lower dash panel on the driver side.

Trans cooler failure (antifreeze in trans) cause the synchro friction discs to break apart and fail. The fact that it happened after a synchro repairs just plans sucks.

It could still be the connector end. You can buy the complete injector connector and soldered it into the harness. You got to make sure all the oil is cleaned from the wire to get a good solder. You can also just get the 4 terminal ends too. This would be the cheapest thing to try. Was the harness secured correctly under the valve cover--not rubbing on any valve springs? Have you checked the injector harness under the valve cover--Is it brittle?

1. Connector end/Harness Likely

2. Injector Less likely

3. Engine ECU If Problem still exists after numbers 1 and 2.

I just seen that this is the 2nd thread with the same complaint. Seems like your question has been answered. lol

I have no idea what truck you have but here is a guess. Somewhere near the heater core there is a shut off valve in the 5/8 heater hose line. Normally they are cable operated. RDs mount them just above the valve cover. Look for that shut off valve.

Right above the red circle is a coolant hose with 2 clamps. This is the coolant line that runs to the aircompressor. Maybe it was just a cold water leak at one of the clamps.

If you would've said, low oil pressure and not had any repairs, Rods, mains, and oil pump would have been first choice. You probably should check the rod and main bearings as Staxx suggested and check the oil pump as Mackpro68 suggested. Its hard to condemn new parts but shit happens.

Ive also never seen cam bearings cause low oil pressure and shutdown. Cam bearings could cause low oil pressure to the jakes, but that isnt your problem.

Another vote for EGR cooler.

Are you using a electronic or mechanical oil pressure gauge? Have you verified the oil pressure with another gauge?

When the oil pressure drops while running, does the engine brake get weaker?

Yes. If the top pads are good replace the bottoms with urethane. This is what we normally do unless the customer doesnt want to pay extra money for the urethane. It seems like the black rubber ones have gotten really weak.

If the truck has a trunnion with camelback suspension, the shims/washers at the trunnion go 1 3 3 1.

Meaning- 1 washer at bolt head, 3 washers inbetween front torque arm and trunnion, 3 washers inbetween trunnion and rear torque arm, and 1 washer at bolt nut.

What's considered a none proprietary fault? I would think most Mid 128 and 233 codes would fall under proprietary faults.

Low Power? Maybe check your Fuel and Boost Pressure. Do you have a boost gauge in the dash?

Sounds like the beginning of Synchronizer failure. The lo side seems to go first, meaning the grinding starts going from Hi to Lo. You can take off in Lo because its in Lo before you start, but when you shift from Hi to Lo the friction material is worn and the gears grind.

If its extremely cold and the problem has only happened yesterday, today and maybe tomorrow, its probably the weather. Maybe the gear oil is extra thick and you have moisture in the air system causing the the synchro to shift slow or stick.

It was -9 here today. We had trucks that wouldnt start and Ishifts/Mdrives that wouldnt shift, trucks not regening. You cant really judge problems when the weather gets this cold.

I heard there is a possibility of it going back to a techtool version, time will tell . But yes I do not enjoy using techtool II.

That sounds good to me.

I dont think Volvo/Mack has figured out the software yet, so I wouldnt think an aftermarket tool would work. Constant updates, slooooowwwwwwwwww speed, programming problems. I think they jumped the gun on the OBD2.

The Davco fuel water seperater has coolant flowing through the bottom to heat the fuel. Its pretty common on trucks here in Pa. We've seen problems with them cracking.

Same issue here.

Coolant in the fuel is not normal.

Do you have a Davco fuel water seperater? If you do, try bypassing it and recheck.

Ive seen bad cups put fuel in the coolant but not coolant in the fuel. This is just what Ive seen, anything is possible.

Send the 2012 to the dealer.

What are the codes you're getting from Guided Diagnostics?