Challenger

Mack LE's cracked on the front right side lower flange, right behind the bracket for the steering asst drag link. Mack's repair was, stop drill at the end of the crack, grind v into crack, weld, grind smooth, then add a outer glove bracket, drill more body mount bolt holes and install body mount bolts. This glove replaced the steering asst mount (not related to your problem, just adding that).

Your idea sound right on. Outer glove should be fine. You could always find a welder to repair the crack.

I hate when new parts fail, so much time ends up getting wasted.

Sounds like you're replaced everything. Was the problem there before all the repairs? Was this the reason for all the repairs? Does this happen while the truck is at idle? Can you hear the air leaking past the air dryer purge valve when its dropping from 125-90? If you can hear leaking past the air dryer purge valve I would consider swapping it out with a known good one. Sometimes new parts can fail off the get go. I end up running in circles because its hard to condemn a new part.

Every oil kit I've put on solves the problem. I drill the Jake housing not replace them. Of course the oil lines are the last resort after troubleshooting, update kit, rod and main bearings, and the high volume oil pump. The Mack spec on the updated kit is .021" Its been that way for 12-13 years. I wouldn't even consider troubleshooting a Jake issue knowing that they were set at .015". I would readjust with the Mack spec and road test.

Is it an active code? Does the truck run? Everytime I see that codes its inactive. If its active, was it active before the starter replacement? Triple check all the wires that were removed for proper routing. Check the engine ground bolt that is below the starter, is it clean and tight? Was that bolt removed while starter was replaced? Where any wires damaged while removing and installing that heavy a$$ starter?

I would double check that coolant 90 degree fitting at the back of the head for core sand like staxx suggested. Just because they changed the lines doesnt mean they checked the fitting for blockage. I dont think there are alot of people who know to check for the core sand blockage.

Whats to much? Every few second? Is this the reason for all the parts being replace? Does it build air to 125ish and continue to purge? What exactly does it do?

Check the signal lines coming from the governor. Check routing, check for holes from rubbing.

If you have a fax number I could fax you the info. I have no idea how to attach the torque sequence.

Im not sure why it said .015 that was the clearance before .017. The old style were .017 and the updated style is .021. With the Jakes installed you can tell the difference between the 2 by the length of the stud with the 3/4 nut. The old style were short and the newer ones are longer.

New Updated Jake kits clearance is .021".

Readjust and retest.

You can jump power from the alt to the jake connector with the wire off and hear the solenoid click. With the key on engine off remove the Jake wire from the spacer and tap the little connector stud with power, you should hear the click. Do it to both heads, no click means bad solenoid or solenoid wire.

Use the same wire and hold the wire to the connector while the engine is running this should activate the Jake and the engine will studder. Do this one head at a time.

Try this before and after you readjust the Jakes to see if you can hear a difference. This is just a quick way to see if there is a difference with out a road test. You'll still need to road test to make sure its all good and doesnt fade away.

You would need the tool that hold the outer cam and pinion from spinning while you run the nut off. Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam apart without damaging the threads on the pinion.

There is a spacer inbetween the the outer cam and pinion. This sets your bearing preload.

Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam back together inside the pinion housing. After this you have to check the preload. If the preload is to tight or to loose you have to break it back down replace the spacer with a bigger one or smaller one to get the preload in spec. Then put the holding tool back in place get a torque multiplier and torque to spec. That would be the harderst part.

If you wanted to save some cash you could remove all the parts and pinion housing yourself. Then take the pinion housing to a shop and have them replace the outer cam, nut, outercam bearing and race. They can reassemble it and set the preload.

Then take it back and assemble the rest by yourself.

The wedges/peanuts have an arrow on them. The arrows point out.

The inner cam has a slot on one side. The slot faces towards the front of the rear. Meaning you should put the inner cam in the peanut/wedge cage and not see the slot.

Did you have this problem before the repairs?

The old style Jake would've been adjusted to .017" The newer updated adjustment would be .021" Did you adjust them correctly?

When you installed the solenoids did you replace the solenoid orings or atleast make sure you put them back?

How many miles are on the truck?

Whats the oil pressure while driving and attempting to use the Jake?

Assuming you did everything correctly it could be low oil pressure. Within spec and optimal are 2 different things.

If everything is correct you could consider replacing your rod and main bearings and replacing the oil pump with a high volume oil pump.

There is also an external oil line kit you can buy that runs oil from the oil filter housing to the Jake Housings.

Its probably the power steering pump.

If he is seeing soot on the body paint around the exhaust its probably coming from the exhaust which is a sign of a crack filter or a filter that is leaking around the edges. There shouldnt be any soot anywhere near the stack. Front loaders run with the forks somewhat forward so putting a 90 out to the body could put the exhaust right at the arms, depending on where the driver has them. Its under warranty so it needs to go back to the dealer.

That will be all well & good until the truck gets into some soft ground or has to start off loaded on a steep hill & the driver smokes the clutch trying to get it moving without lo lo.

Thats why it becomes the owner's choice. What works for some doesnt work for others.

What you describe sounds like a cracked or defective DPF. Per earlier post, the inside of the stack should be clean...no black soot.

I second that.

Mack did come out with updated lo, hi split and synchronizer parts this year. Get the Mack parts, the generic aftermarket parts wont last. There was also a service bulletin saying you have to replace the synchronizer fork pinch bolt. They say the bolt has a scotch lock on it and can only be used 1 time. Even if you use loctite and torque the bolt it can back out and cause synchronizer failure. Im sure there are alot of mechanics who reused that bolt and caused premature failures after their repair.

The main 2 Mack Granite trans failures I see are the pinch bolts coming loose around 60,000-70,000 miles. I assume this was a factory defect. And the other one is transmission cooler failure. The cooler fails and allows coolant to flow into the trans and basically wipes it all out.

The other reason are improper repairs. I just repaired 5 trans from one owner. He had a guy who knows Mack trans repair his trans. He did half ass repairs with aftermarket parts. 2 of the trans never made out of the garage.

is the check engine light on on the dash? the timing advance solnoid is likly haywire!You could save your self the bucks of buying the sol by doing this I have found that replacing the solnoid Does not always fix the problem changing the timing will fix the problem for ever! I have had this happen I have ended up setting the timeing up to 10 degees its a farely big job because there is alot of stuff to move out of the way to get to the timing gear and you got to drain the coolant. but all in all its worth it!

I dont think Ive ever seen a Midliner not smoke. Very interesting

All MRU's and LEU's have that same stack, there should be no reason to change it. There are 1000's of the same trucks out there running just fine with the OEM stack. You do have an unusual problem that will require a dealer service with Mack tech support. Is there any signs of soot inside the exhaust pipe or around the exhaust? I would think that if exhaust is coming form your stack it would be visiable on the white paint. There should be 0 signs of soot anywhere. Anys signs of soot means the DPF filter is cracked. Assuming there is no signs of soot around the stack they might just replace the air filter, repair/replace the air intake, let you run the truck and keep an eye on it.

Im going to guess and say the original owner may have broke the lever off to keep drivers from driving it like a 10 speed and tearing up the back case. People get in a truck with a lever on the shifting knob and think they have a Hi and lo side. This trans does not have a synchronizer. Every T2060 I see has a failure in the aux case because of improper shifting. If lo reverse and lo 1st arent needed I would leave it in high and drive it like a 5 speed. Ive taken the air shift lever and airlines off by owner request just to prevent future failures. Even if the owner is the only driver, somewhere some mechanic will get in and attempt to shift it like a 10 speed and start the failure. Sounds like the previous owner paid for trans repairs due to improper shifting. Its a simple costly mistake that WILL happen.

Have you checked the fuel and boost pressures?