Challenger

Blink code 4-5 is for turbo VGT system not responding. Was the turbo calibrated after replacement? If you're sure the fuel and boost are fine, then I would think updating the EECU and VECU software would be a good idea. But since you replaced the EECU it shouldve been programmed with updated software. Did they update the VECU at the same time as replacing the EECU?

Things I would look at-

Are there any codes?

Fuel pressure

Boost pressure

I use an air pressure gauge to test fuel and boost pressure, green for fuel and orange for boost.

What was the problem before the rebuild? I assume there is air at the reverse fitting when under 60psi since it shifts. Is there air at the reverse fitting when above 60psi when not shifting?

Check your clutch switch at the clutch pedal. Make sure you hear the tiny click every time the pedal is released. This is the first thing I look at when the cruise and engine brake stop working.

They're basically the same. The valve cover, software, name plate and color are different. Block, pistons, cam, rockershaft, head, sensor, egr, cooler, turbo, radiator, all the same. These parts can be taken off one and put on the other. The valve covers look different but have the same bolt pattern. Ive seen a Volvo marked intake on an '07 MP7. I assume the intake was cracked and replaced. It must've been the only intake instock that day and the owner wanted the truck finished NOW.

Next time it doesnt select reverse, put the stick in neutral but leave the selector in reverse. Its important to do this while trans is acting up.

1 Remove the reverse airline, check for air, air should be applied at this time. Reinstall airline

2 Remove the neutral airline, check for air, no air should be applied. Reinstall airline

3 Remove the hi and lo airlines, one at a time. Both should have air, this puts the hi/lo sliding clutch in neutral.

This will eliminate any possible intermittent air supply problems.

VMAC I Module 12MS51M7

Bosch Module 12MS45M4 $800/obo-- total for both. I prefer to sell them together

VMAC II Module 12MS54M7 $200

I removed all modules from trucks that were taking out of service and headed to the crusher. I wanted them as test modules for diagnostics. I planned on getting a job with a Mack dealer down south, It didnt work out, so I no longer need them.

I'd prefer a local pick up and exchange. Pittsburgh Pa

I will ship, just add shipping costs.

Keith J Coyne Jr

412-716-5413

When installing the top cover, the hi/lo sliding clutch shifter (the part in the trans) should be in neutral (inbetween gears). The reverse shifter should be in neutral (toward the front of the trans).

Have the hi/lo shifter in the trans in neutral (inbetween both gears). Put the reverse shifter in neutral (shifter should be moved towards the front of trans).

Like mrsmackpaul said, the top cover reverse/neutral shifter needs to be on an angle to engage the trans shifter.

I lower the top cover on the trans, leave the cover up about an inch, and use a long flat tip screwdriver and move the top cover shifters into place. It can take a few times to get the shifter to engage. Ive never dropped the cover on and was lucky enough to engage both shifters. Ive tried, but it never works out.

You got your top cover together, all you got now is dropping the cover on. This is trail and error period, sounds like you figured that out already.

You probably missed the reverse/neutral shifter the first time you dropped the cover on. That would be why you didnt have reverse but had hi/lo.

When you couldnt get the top cover shifters to move, you probably got the shift rails stuck on the lock pin which is inbetween the rails. Just like you did, you just move them around until they are free. This happens to me too.

Dont worry about the adjustment the instruction book is talking about. Tech manuals make things more difficult then they need to be. If you have your gears, YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.

Push the smaller cylinder out of the larger cylinder. That way you can remove the snap ring from the side its closes too. If the snap ring looks fine and just pi$$ing you off, just leave it alone, it will be fine.

When you break it down, the hi/lo cylinder should just be an empty tube with a snapring. The piece making the snapring a pain, is just another cylinder piece that slides out (which has 2 different size orings on it.)

And like mrsmackpaul said, the metal piece in the airline fitting just keeps the line from collapsing. This WILL NOT cause your problem. Maybe if it was missing and the line collapsed, it could cause a problem.

The oring kits comes with extra orings, not sure how many. Every size should be used, some of the sizes just have extras.

Brakeclean is ok, aslong as its not touching any orings you plan on using.

So its the entire top cover that comes off?? then the cylinders can be dismantled? Sorry, dumb question

Yes,

You can replace the 5/8" adjuster, but if the clutch ring has broken teeth, the clutch will need replaced. If you replace the 5/8 adjuster and the clutch is still frozen, you'll have to replace the clutch.

Not all fuel prime loss will result in an external leak. Most would just leak/flow back to the tank.

1/3 of the way full with the clear bowl is fine. An 1" or more is good. As the filter gets dirty the level goes up, when its towards the top it suppose to be replaced. Make sure the plastic screw cap on top of the clear bowl (fuel filter) has an oring.

You can remove the top cover in any selection. Once you have the topcover on a bench, the shift cylinders have to be in neutral. But you can move the dogs with your hands or just shoot air into the fittings to put it in neutral. It will make sense when you have it on the bench.

That was on the 12 speed. I think the main box is the same isn't it?

Yes.

The 4th/5th fork rail is about 10" long. Its the only fork on the rail. I THINK the rail sticks out of front of the trans with a seal, like the compound rail on a 12 speed. Remove the detain ball and spring and try sliding it which ever way you get the needed room to remove the fork. Like mrsmackpaul says, its been awhile since Ive done it too. Definitely worth a shot.

Forks usually break off clean towards the top and fall down in the trans. Maybe it broke, and the gears chewed/broke it up more?

Thats everything. Just mark everything as you take it apart. Maybe take a picture of the direction of the HI/Lo cylinders. What ever makes it easier for you to reassemble. You can use silicone for the gasket.

16 hours to do the job. Maybe 20 hours if you have 2 PTOs, mounts that were difficult to get out, or other problems. $3400 seems high, whats their labor rate?

The fact that the foreman is doing the work could be a sign they ran all the good mechs out and are going down hill.

Thats the same tool and process for the T2s and T3s. Freeze plugs just keeps oil from leaking out.

Gear and sliding clutch engagement teeth are smaller on the T318. T3s have a different HI/Lo shift cylinder with less parts. Both of these are suppose to improve the shifting.

The fork may have missed the sliding clutch when installing the topcover. Try removing and reinstalling the top cover.

How big is the hole? There are no relief valves for backpressure. Ive seen a filter so plugged the truck wouldnt start.

Check your Diff pressure sensor lines for being clogged too. The black sensor on the DPF with the 2 hoses going to the metal lines. Check and make sure the metal lines aren't clogged. Might as well clean those with everything else.

sounds like you have air leaking into the High Low part of the trans thru knob might just need a kit in it

sounds like the air isnt getting cut off properly or maybe the air rams have are binding and its not coming out of gear

Paul

I agree, could be the shift knob.

Maybe a fuel issue? I cant remember if they have a fuel primer hand pump. Is there fuel up to the injection pump? If no fuel to the injection pump, could be a bad fuel line, crack pick up tube in fuel tank, debris in the tank. I mean the supply line not the return line. If there is fuel to the injection pump, crack an injector line at the head and crank the truck, if no fuel to the injector, it could be a problem with the injection pump, mechanical or electrical.

You need to figure out where the fuel stops. Before injection pump or after injection pump.

Has anyone worked on the batteries? The ACM (aftertreatment control module) power wire goes straight to the batteries. Its just a small wire terminal. Ive seen 3 trucks that had the batteries replaced and the terminal was left off. As a result the truck was in derate and the DEF tank read empty.

This is the only idea I have.