Challenger

What Mack trans do you have?

What year truck, engine, emissions do you have? Is it an MRU, LEU, MP7, 07 emissions? I remember our parts guys having a problem looking up the CRV and piping on garbage trucks.

Gear pinning is service bulletin so its done by vin # only. We get an exact number of pins with a list of vins. So no, we dont pin after the repair. I dont know how they make the decision what trucks get pinned, we just see the list. I would think all trucks should get pinned.

We've been staking the shit out of the nut and threads on all double idler gears while completing repairs.

I replaced a flywheel housing once and tack welded the nut while the cover was off. Maybe it was a good idea, maybe it wasn't. Taking a punch and staking the nut and threads is probably enough.

It would be interesting to see what others do or dont do to the new double idler gear.

There is a Conical (steel) cup upgrade that consists of 6 conical (steel) cups and 6 conical Injectors.

Im assuming you have the copper cups. You got to make sure you have all the updated parts, the copper cups with 2 rings at the top, combustion washer, and the larger injector hold downs. You have to follow the installation instructions to the T. Your truck is an 09 so it couldve been built is 08, so you could have the old/smaller injector holddowns.

Some customers still go with the copper cups because they dont like the cost of the Conical upgrade.

Either way, following the CURRENT instructions and having the updated parts is very important. .

Every dealer is different but we've been seeing this for atleast a year now. We've been doing them inframe but the 2 we have now we pulled the engines. We are still trying to figure out the best way to complete the repairs. So far one guy says he likes it out of the truck the other one says he likes still in the truck. Trail and error on this one. One thing we do know is if it has an Allison its better to pull the engine. We have engine stands, so that helps alot with it pulled. You can do it inframe or out, just pick which one you feel better with and go with it.

How bad was the failure? Is there alot of metal in the pan? The oil cooler needs replaced too.

We dont have any problems getting parts. What problems are you having?

Its been taking us about 60-80 hours for each engine. Volvo pays somewhere around 35 hours, warranty time. Warranty time doesnt mean anything.

After you complete the repairs you will know more then your Mack dealer.

Replace the EUP.

Yes, TONS of Mack and Volvos have or will have this problem. The double idler gear retaining nut backs off and causes the problem. Its a huge job. We have 2 MP7s in our shop right now getting the repairs. We always have one truck in the shop with this problem.

Normal needed repairs

Replace all gear train, replace oil pump, check/replace rod and main bearings, remove oil cooler to clean metal debris, blow out all oil passages.

Volvo came out with a Service Bulletin that calls for tech to drill through the flywheel housing and double idler gear/nut and then drive a pin through it and install a freeze plug in the hole. The pin keeps the nut from backing off. But of coarse they ran out of the parts for the last few months but recently started sending them out again.

I steer clear of these jobs, just involves to much time. Good luck

Only thing I can say is, its seems like no one knows how to work on them. When you call Mack tech support there is only like 2 people who can point you in the right direction.

Normally when a trunnion needs replaced you will see cracks in the center section or if the bar is completely shot. If the saddle bushing is completely gone and the steel saddle has been riding on the steel bar for along period of time the bar can be damaged. All the trunnions that I've replaced had cracked center sections. If the bar looks ok its ok. Its like anything else, if the bar is bad you'll know its bad. I've never had or seen a rear suspension rebush or spring replacement come back and bite us is the ass. Tear it down and slide the new bushing or saddle with bushing on the bar and see how it fits. Keep it simple.

If it needed a trunnion replacement everything would just get removed or cut off. The pintel hook wouldnt stop anything. There is also a trunnion that has spacers that can be installed without moving anything. You just put it up and add the spacers, its seems kinda cheap.

I like to do one side at a time. Sometimes it hard to beat the spring saddle off of the spring, so replacing the saddle with the spring is alot easier. You can use an air hammer with a chisel end to clean/break out all the dirt in the buckets. The buckets can fill up with crap so the bottom pad doesn't fit correctly. You can use a small car floor jack to lift the buckets into position, the buckets are heavy. You can use a port a power or a come along to push or pull the axles back into place when you install the buckets. Wire wheel the shit out of the trunnion bar and then grease the shit out of it so the spring pack slides back on smooth. Make sure everything is supported as you go along.

Hopefully some of this helps. Thank you fore your response we had to cut all the bolts out 3/4 impact not doing job but we have it all apart. Ready to install one side. learned that you have to sapport the buckets on the spring before cutting the last bolt. lots of tennsion on spring. LOL. Will do other side different. We will be back if we have questions. Thank You.

I know you already checked the H ring but triple check that H ring, make sure it didn't move at all. Also make sure you don't have any boogers/burrs in the lifter bore. Make sure the new lifter slides in and out just like all the other lifters.

Good luck

You can use sticks with magnets on the tips to hold up the lifters while removing and installing the camshaft. There is also a cam shoe tool that you put on the back of the cam to slide it out and in alot easier with out damaging the cam bearings. If ts an Etech engine turn the cam gear timing mark to about the 2 o'clock position to have the lobes in position for removal and installation.

Bad injectors don't normally cause active EUP codes. Usually an active EUP code means a faulty EUP. Bad injectors cause a things like misses, smoke but not an active EUP code.

There is a injector puller that threads into the top of the injector and you turn a nut that pulls the injector out. If you dont have the tool you could use a bolt that threads into the injector top and popped it out with a prybar. The bolt size is 1/4 coarse or 5/16 coarse the length should be about 3-4". I cant remember which one it is but its that easy.

1-Remove injector line

2-Remove valve cover

3-Remove injector retaining nut. You will need a 5/8 allen head socket for this nut.

4-Screw bolt into injector and "pop" it out.

When you install the injector you will see a titty on the injector and a slot for that titty in the head. Screw the bolt you used to remove it back in and push the injector back in the bore while keeping the titty aligned with the slot. When you push it in you'll feel it seat in place, it will feel solid at the end of the push. Reinstall the retaining nut and torque to 45ftlbs. Reinstall all other parts.

Its easy, you can do it.

Most of the time when the EUPs have active codes they need replaced. The EUPs are under the heat shields and supply fuel to the injectors. These codes can be active during warm up then go out, during normal driving or become active after the truck warms up. Either way they usually need replaced. 1 is at the front and 6 is in the rear.

The engine brake solenoid is the powerleash solenoid that is clipped on to the rockershafts and applies more oil for the power leash to activate. #1 is the front head and #2 is the rear head. The code should say which # it is. If it doesnt you could apply power straight to the terminal on the left side of the head below the valve cover with the engine off. You should hear it click. Whichever one doesnt click could have a broken wire or just needs replaced.