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Posts posted by mattb73lt

  1. 3 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

    It maybe a long shot but what if you got and sent Lancaster the cardboard or bendable chipboard is what is really needed? Sounds like that is the only issue is getting a new source for the chipboard without buying large quantities if it. They have the template for sure and have been doing interior kits for years. Maybe they still can get it but not in the small quantities that they sell kits in these days. Maybe worth a call back to them to know.

    Doing a quick Google search shows the issue, there are a few companies that still make the stuff in natural or gray color, none with the tan craft paper on one side like original Mack used. The material is sold in bulk or by the pallet not just a couple of sheets at a time. It would have to be painted to get the proper color now.

    WOW, times have changed maybe try colored picture framing mat board if you can still use your old panels as templates, glue fabric beading on where it was sewn originally. Hope it will flex enough to make the bends without cracking. Or maybe use your older panels and glue Naugahyde on. Looks like what the B cab kit from Watt's is like. 

    Glad I got both B & L interiors when still available. Sold the older L interior back about 5 years ago it was 10 years old from Lancaster, still in good shape but not new.

    That is a good point. I'll see if i can source some material that could work. I only have a few pieces that could give a few patterns, but most of the interior was missing. I'm kicking myself I didn't buy one and store it, when i could've.

  2. I'd say it's a prototype, the engineering dep't. experimenting. There's some other pics(2) in the B Model books, showing a B-77 with the same serial number. In the second photo it sports a experimental cab with a one piece windshield. Someone told me that that was a fiberglass cab they were working on, but was never produced. Then there were the export B-81's that had integral sleeper cabs. I don't think any of those were offered on the domestic market.

    • Like 1
  3. 16 hours ago, h67st said:

    Niiice! How in the world did you cut that shim with that long taper?

    I’m no woodworking expert by any measure. Once I figured out how much of a curve I needed and the area where it needed to be in, I roughed out the mahogany to fit the area, then worked it out where the center needed to be about 7/16” thick and taper down to about 1/16” at each end.  I then used a Dewalt hand planer to remove the wood. A regular hand planer would work, too, to shave it down. Now, there’s no void between the sheet metal and the frame. There’s also black tarpaper between the sheet metal and framework, as Mack did at the factory.

    BTW, you can see the shim peeking out on that interior shot I posted, between the back skin and lower frame.

    • Like 2
  4. On 3/12/2019 at 2:43 PM, Freightrain said:

    When I bought my B, the rear mount area was weak.  The PO had run a piece of angle iron across and just let the cab sit on it.  Ya, you could wiggle the cab around.  I cut the rear cab patch off and welded new pieces across tying it into the rear of the cab structure.  Wow, the cab is rock solid.  Not quite as purdy as your repair, but functional!

    I lucked out with my B-42. It was owned by a tree company and was mostly used in the summer months and garage kept. It had a shag carpet covering the floor that was soaked in chainsaw oil. The floor and cab back were like factory new, with a sheen of oil on the factory paint. It also had less than 100K on it. It was a really easy clean up and repaint after I converted it to diesel. The B-73, not so much, used hard and then abandoned outside. That definitely took its toll. I had thoughts of getting it on the road, but I think that would have destroyed what I did have. This will be like new if I can keep going and get it done.

    • Like 1
  5. On 3/6/2019 at 2:43 PM, mrsmackpaul said:


    That's one heck of a job your doing 

    Im not sure I am brave enough to get this far into a cab 


    Great stuff and thanks for sharing it with us



    Thanks, it's been a lot of work, so far. Looking at using Lizard Skin, like you mentioned for soundproofing. Under the cab, inner doors, roof, cab back wall and firewall. Pretty much everywhere that won't get standard paint.

  6. 13 hours ago, j hancock said:

    Absolutely Outstanding Matt!  You are making some good progress.

    As a super triple check on the door fitment and operation, verify the dovetails on the door and jamb and the door seal retaining strip with a new seal in place.  Much easier to make an adjustment while still in primer. 

    Ask me why I know....

    You mentioned you were having some issues with your cab, after getting it back from the shop that did the work. What did you do with the door seals and the metal retainer that holds them in place? Mine are not usable and I was thinking about using a self adhesive strip to seal the door. I'll be doing a lot of assembly/disassembly as I go before making things permanent to make sure it all fits.

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