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Posts posted by mattb73lt

  1. 6 hours ago, Vladislav said:

    Wow!! Looks much more exciting now!

    I'm sure you know what you do by my fingers will be kept crossed. What is the plan for that big 3" U-channel at the bottom of the back wall? Are you going to make a new one? Right at the moment I'm waiting for such part from fabrication but that one will be a straight piece. Hope to get it in the shape by cutting-welding-grinding. My new sills (or rockers?) are also in that order. At least I hope the shop folks will be able to bend what I have drawn :)

    I had another fabricated locally from a donor I picked up and cut apart for a pattern. Mine was too far gone and broken from the accident. The fabricator did a great job, considering how complex it actually is.




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  2. On 2/5/2019 at 4:56 PM, h67st said:

    You've got that thing torn apart!! My H67 cab didn't look too bad until I had it blasted and all the bondo was blown out of the rust holes...then it looked a lot like yours.

    Luckily no surprises when I got it back from the blaster. The areas that were slated for replacement opened up a little more, but the rest was solid. And no real bondo, several layers of paint was about it. Now to start putting it back together so it doesn't look like a rolling jigsaw puzzle when I'm done.

  3. 1 hour ago, AZB755V8 said:

    That is simply incredible!! The work that has been done and to just start to put it back together now. WOW!! It will be perfect I am sure. Are you keeping track of the hours and cost so far, what is the estimate on the total time and expenses you planned on? My L cab was in great shape to start when I restored it. I had a lot of money, my time and outside labor in it and NO body work was required, You are making a whole new body, just incredible. Is the frame, engine and all else being done to this level as well, it will be priceless!! I am starting to restore an 88 Superliner and almost ashamed to post the project compared to this. 


    Outstanding!!! :thumb::thumb::thumb:

    It's hard to estimate the man hours due to how long I've had it. It's always been a back burner project, as I was about to start my other B just when I found this one. So, I've done and collected what I needed over the years in between other projects. A lot of items are already done and stored, ready for assembly. This is the part I've dreaded, it's just dirty, time consuming work. I have the knowledge and experience to go this deep, just not all the equipment to do it. Fabrication is adding to it's cost, but it would be even higher to buy the equipment for what I see as a one time restoration. The cab has always been the roughest part. The truck was used hard up until, from what I could figure, around 1987 when the engine was removed and it was essentially abandoned outside until I found it in 1998. With that and the typical New England climate, rust has taken it's toll. Almost all of that is gone now, with new panels to go back in or existing ones repaired. It would have been nice to find one from your area, but getting it home would have been cost prohibitive. This style cab is somewhat rare and not easy to find. I saw one for sale up in Canada, but a close look at the photo's it looked like it might need similar work and again the cast of getting it home. This is certainly the most in depth restoration I've attempted and there won't be hardly anything that hasn't been touched.

  4. 23 hours ago, MACKTRUCKS4 said:

    FYI, Doug no longer makes the stainless bumpers, just steel. I bought a steel one and the stainless grill guard  two years ago for my B755. He said he will no longer make the stainless bumpers because they scratch too easy and are really hard to make because of that.

    Good thing I didn’t mess it up while machining it up then! I have one of his steel ones on my B-42. They do look nice.

  5. 3 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

    Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

    I think I might go that route, I like that you can paint overt it.

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