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mattb73lt

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Posts posted by mattb73lt


  1. 2 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

    Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

    I was going to use Lizard skin on the entire bottom, then Dynamat over the entire interior. Probably go double thick under the mat for the firewall.


  2. That's what I did when I swapped over my B-42 to diesel. I was able to get a B-61SX from behind the cab forward, it had everything but the motor. Everything bolted right in, front cross member, transmission mounts, etc. There's a lot that you'll need that you'll have to scrounge for to get it done right (Shutters, brackets, air lines). The good thing is, the frame is predrilled for both mounts(Gas and Diesel). It was actually a very easy swap to bolt right in. I started off with a 1957 END-673 for ten years and after having a major issue with it a 1973 ENDT-675 (237) since 2011. Miss the bark of the 673, but love the power of the 237. 


  3. 1 hour ago, mackdaddy said:

    does your backdrop have the fin that seperates 3 cylinders in it? All that I have seen with the fin will say Cummins Diesel on the 2 pieces.

     

    Yes, there's a cast divider separating the cylinders. Three upfront and three to the rear. The gasses meet as they enter the exhaust pipe. I've been told that's where the exhaust note comes from.


  4. Well, my text disappeared when I posted those pics. But, it's been two months since I touched this, didn't think I would be that busy. Finally got on it this weekend, finished all the welding and primed the frame. Got the donor frame to the sandblaster and into the shop for primer.

    The big score was finding a "Back-Drop" exhaust for the Cummins. It's super nice and once its painted and installed I'll post some pictures.


  5. 7 minutes ago, h67st said:

    Nothing like getting things cleaned up and new paint on them! I notice your floor looks old...when you built your new shop, did you reuse the old foundation and floor?

    It's the original floor with 3/4" plywood layed over it as a work surface. I put it down when I did the other B. I'll probably replace it at some point.

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