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Big Dog
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Posts posted by mattb73lt

  1. 23 hours ago, MACKTRUCKS4 said:

    FYI, Doug no longer makes the stainless bumpers, just steel. I bought a steel one and the stainless grill guard  two years ago for my B755. He said he will no longer make the stainless bumpers because they scratch too easy and are really hard to make because of that.

    Good thing I didn’t mess it up while machining it up then! I have one of his steel ones on my B-42. They do look nice.

  2. 3 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

    Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

    I think I might go that route, I like that you can paint overt it.

  3. 4 hours ago, Red Horse said:

    Nice Matt-but I assume when you talk about "replacing" sections this means you are fabricating all these pieces-no donor involved?

    I've collected up numerous pieces that are re-production (sills, cab back) and a lot of donor pieces. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me a Bridgeport, Ct fire truck cab. It was really gone on the bottom end but all the upper metal was good. I carefully cut it apart and was able to get the cab top, under structure for it, cowl and windshield area.

    • Like 1

  4. 2 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

    Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

    I was going to use Lizard skin on the entire bottom, then Dynamat over the entire interior. Probably go double thick under the mat for the firewall.

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