mattb73lt

I think it could be done. Maybe out of 1” tubing, or a little heavier. Of you were to build a framework that could be covered. You could take it to a canvas shop and have the make you a nice fitting top that could be removable. Kind of like a military vehicle. Here’s a few pics of a military pickup I have and the bow system For the cargo bed and cab top. Just food for thought.

1 hour ago, Red Horse said:

Thx Matt.  Have you thought of sending wheel out to that guy that rebuilds them?  I'm assuming he uses some sort of epoxy- someone on this site must have contact info for the guy.

Yes, was also thinking of doing it myself and painting it. I saved the other wheel for twenty years to use in the B-73. The original has about 6+ decent cracks. It would have saved me time & money. But better to find out now than during reassembly.

2 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Matt, Excuse my crude sketch- I got dimensions with a divider

Thread width

Matt,

Excuse crude sketch-used a divider

Thread Width                   1"

End of taper                     1.125"

Start of taper                   1.156"

Inner Bearing width        .9375

 

3 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Matt, Excuse my crude sketch- I got dimensions with a divider

Thread width

Matt,

Excuse crude sketch-used a divider

Thread Width                   1"

End of taper                     1.125"

Start of taper                   1.156"

Inner Bearing width        .9375

I think you have a heavier shaft.  That B-42 shaft only measures1.00” max over it’s length. So your’s is heavier like the B-73. Well at least we know it won’t fit. Sad part for me is that I was saving a really nice, crack free, 22” steering wheel from my B-42 for the B-73. I only recently took the steering column apart for paint and now I know it won’t fit, so back to the cracked one. Crap.

Let me ask around to see if I can find you one.

I found some differences in boxes. Just happened to have the box for my B-73 laying on the floor. That shaft is 1.125” OD and tapers to .975 where the u-joint is. The steering wheel end is larger and 1.125”OD as well. It is a Gemmer box and worm and roller, too. A quick measure of the OD should determine what shaft it is.

Ok, it's out. It measures 46 1/2" long, lower end is 1.00" where the worm is and has a slight taper at the steering wheel end to .975". Steering wheel splines and threads look good, there's two small, short grooves where the split race support the shaft in the tube (where yours likely failed). The worm looks pressed on with a keyed area, looking at the very end. I don't have a means to press it off due to it's length and don't want to damage it trying if this will fit your's.

I'm thinking it's keyed and pressed on. I'll dig into the box tomorrow to see. I'm not going to use the box again and I thought this might work.

I wonder how the worm gear is secured to the shaft? I was thinking about pulling that B-42 box apart to get the shaft out. If the worm can be removed and swapped and all the other measurements are the same, this could be a pretty easy repair.

11 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Matt, Thanks for the offer.  It looks so much smaller (the box) than the Gemmer 500 that is in it.  As the only issue I have is the shaft broke, what you are suggesting is I replace shaft with this one?  By the way, today with the help of my machete I hacked my way to what I believe was a B-42 a friend had in his yard.  Box was very small.

Yeah, I was thinking the steering shaft might work for you. The box is for a FA 505 axle. I thought yours, last time I saw it, had a heavy front axle and would have a bigger box. So, I wasn’t sure if the shaft would or could be swapped. Someone may know. I have it if you want to try? I can open this one up and see what it looks like, too?

Do you need a shaft? I have the complete manual steering box/shaft/tube that came out of my B-42 when I put the Sheppard box in it 20 years ago. I don't know if it'll be the same box, but the shaft might work? I just looked at it. It's in good shape with no undercuts to the shaft. Casting number on the box is 40330. If you need it, you can have it.

WOW! Lucky that didn’t happen when you were driving!! Might be easiest to drop it down than trying to pull it up through the cab. Sourcing a new shaft shouldn’t be too hard.

The paint code for Mack “Fleet Red” is DCC 75674 (PPG#). Same color for frame and cab. That should cross to other Co #’s.

It is expensive. I bought a gallon of PPG Concept, with all the additives and hardener it was over $900. Red is one of the most expensive colors due to the pigments. I heard pearlescent paint was even more expensive. 

2 hours ago, Red Horse said:

And speaking of color?  What are  you thinking-same as your B 61?

I was going to go back to the original Mack “Fleet Red”. I already painted the bottom of the cab.

8 hours ago, j hancock said:

Nice!  My arms are tired just looking at the pictures.

It’s moving along pretty quickly. Can’t wait to get this part done and get some color on it.

It's a duplex.

Ok, but don’t fall in love with a headache. You’ve listed a lot of issues in your last few posts. As I’ve said, you’re the one who will work on it and expend your hard earned money to make it what you want. From what you’re posting it starting to add up to a lot of work. I would proceed with caution and I would be looking for a little less to purchase.

From what you found, $6500 doesn’t seem too bad. The cab sounds like it has some issues. But, if you think it’s within your capabilities and you have the ability, you should be ok.

That’s really nice. 

When you inspect it, try to determine what has been done to it and modified over the years. Any mods done well and with the right components should be OK. Wiring is not a huge deal, as the electrical system is simple, harnesses available and you can make your own without too much difficulty. Stay within you capabilities for doing things and you should be good.

On the cab, check the driver’s side floor area. Both door sills and door bottoms. Check along the cab floor where it meets the back wall of the cab, inside and out. The cab back wall is prone to rust in that area. Fenders can be replaced/repaired. Door jambs and gutters. Windshield and upper cowl areas are other areas to look at.

That really looks good! A Plus on the effort!!