mackmixer

I would guess that it is just a sequential serial number for the END 673 engine

but it could be tied to a date code, especially with the spaces between the numbers that you have shown, i.e.

the 354 may be the 35th week of 1954 and the 61st engine that of that week or

354 could be the 3 month of 1954 and the 61st engine of that month

Just a guess, some manufacturers did tie to a date code of some sort.

Some manufacturers stamped the engine number to agree with the truck(or car) serial number

Some more of our experts will chime in............

I noticed in your profile that you have a 1955 truck

Remove and replace fan belts. While the belt(s) are off, turn by hand your water pump, generator, idlers, and check for play, looseness, roughness of bearings, seals.

When you remove the carburator, make sure there are no wasp nest, dirt dobber buildups, etc. below the base. If your air filter has been left off for an extended period of time or have no muffler and a short exhaust pipe, dirt dobbers will travel and build.

I helped my father in law work on an old 1930's International 4 cyl. gas saw mill motor that had set up for years. It was an overhead valve engine and I took the head off to find dirt dobbers had built in the intake and exhaust ports and even through one cylinder where a valve was open!

looks like the cable is run from the boom,but there's also a strap or something down lower ,frame level-hard to tell exactly what it is.

I do see the cable now. Possibly some tow truck driver can tell us what is going on.

A shared loading for better pulling?

I doesn't appear that they are pulling from the booms, looks like from the frames to me.

Pretty impressive, though.

Good job with the videos.

I can not see the mixer turning or hear the concrete & gravel rolling over in the drum..........

Here is their address and phone number.

I was very pleased with the information they sent me on my B-42S, i.e. copy of original order sheets with all options, delivery info, and a customized abbreviated shop manual and owner's manual.

A great resource.

The Mack Trucks Historical Museum

Don Schumaker, Curator

997 Postal Road

Allentown, PA 18103

Telephone: 610-266-6767

Fax: 610-266-6823

David

Here is what the stamped pad looks like on my tandem axle. Mine is a 8.24 to 1 ratio!! Hard to read but is located upper center of pad.

How did your oil pan and the oil pump pickup screen look?

Sounds like a build up of hardened sludge in the engine that is breaking loose after the engine has been sitting up for a long time. I have seen it coated in oil galleries on gasoline engines. Without oil in these passages for a period of time the oil deposits will harden and dry out and then will break loose in chunks like mud when fresh oil is circulated through the passages again. Goes right to your bearings and causes blockage and seizing and of course will block oil flow to upper valve train.

The only real solution is a complete engine teardown with block cleaning and rodding of all oil passages.

Back in the old days before high detergent oils, the 50's Fords V8's Y blocks could be fitted with outside oiling lines to each head similar to what you did with your Mack. That helped get a few more miles out of them.

Here she is. That paint really did not hold up well. Buy it now price is $15k!! Starting bid at $5500

Link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...rksid=p3907.m29

Chris,

Here is the link. It has rust in the same spots. It's got to be your truck. It is famous!

http://www.art.com/asp/sp-asp/_/PD--117685...870B0D46EEDD775

I thought it was probably from backing down in the lake with the brakes hot while unloading one of those homemade boats.

There is a company named Egge Machine Co. that makes custom pistons and rings for old cars. They may be able to make rings for larger bores such as your Mack truck.

Email or call them with your requirements. Or possibly they could refer you to a company that does make bigger OD ring sets.

http://www.egge.com/

Have you tried NAPA?

Try this Hastings piston ring link also.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/catalog/crossreference.asp

It looks like this. The ratio is on the upper right of the pad. The front drive shaft enters the housing on the right side of the picture.

Sounds like you have had a very stressful week. Glad that you made it home safely.

I agree with everything that has been said above. Of course the safest route is to pull the cylinder head, but if you just don't want to go to that much trouble, you may be able to prybar the engine at the flywheel to see if it will turn any. I have used and would recommend ATF and a light penetrating oil in the past and let it soak over night before turning it very far. Should be able to oil the valve train around the valve springs that may soak down on the valve guides also. Of course on a gas engine removing the sparkplugs is easier than removing injectors with a diesel.

While working on an old 1930's 4 cylinder gas IH engine that was on a sawmill many years ago, we pulled it the head. Wasps had built "dirt dobber" nests in one of the cylinders. They came through the old updraft carburator that had no filter on it and down through an open intake valve!! That would have really made a mess if we had not opened it up. So if the intake port has been left open you could have this or rain water to boot. Does it look like the intake has been protected or is it shielded through the turbo somewhat?

On my old Mack with a 6 cylinder Cummins, it turned freely for a few degrees, so I just hooked up a 12 volt battery to it boosted with a car alternator running and turned it over with little apparent damage. However, when I went to change the oil in it after running it off and on for several hours, I found a couple of small chips of gear teeth in the drained oil. I am guessing this was from the gear driven injector pump that may have been frozen. I don't know how long the Mack had been sitting, several years I think, but she fires right off now. I am only driving it around the farm, no serious trips with the bad tires, yet.

So it is a matter of how much time and money you want to invest in it and when.

Best of luck,

David

I saw this 59 B 613 truck on ebay, link below, and it appears to have a one piece, tilt fiberglass

or steel formed front end, hood and fenders. I have not seen this before.

Can anyone shed any details or information on what years these were used? Is it a factory item or aftermarket?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1959-mack-b...sspagenameZWDVW

That really is a beautiful truck. Is that a Bulldog I see perched on top of the roof air conditioner?

Is the dash decoupaged like the late 20's and 30's cars or is it real wood veneer?

Glad to see that you were able to get it home.

It is amazing what car and truck nuts will do for fun!!

Here is a link to some good pictures of Troutman 07. Lots of Macks. Not trying to steal your thunder.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/560058025U...readCrumb/Album

At a truck supply store, large truck stops, commercial parts store. NAPA will also have them.

Well, they "dolled her up." I can't say that I like the color, but she definitely looks "sharper".

No pictures of the engine.

I love road trips to pick up great deals. Make sure that you check the tire pressures in your cargo van before loading the engine and transmission.

Hope that the engine has not seen any water. It should split at the bellhousing with all the bolts removed. You may have to rock the transmission some to get it out of the clutch splines and pilot bushing. It needs to come straight out.

You might take a rachet cable hoist and chain that you could anchor to the van floor or a 2x4 spanning in front of the front seats to use to pull/winch the engine and/or transmission up your skids into the van floor. Or you may be able to just jack it up and crib under it slowly to the van floor height. Some 3/4 inch plywood would help get it across the bumper into the floor.

You might get lucky and find someone that has a forklift or tractor with a 3 point hitch and lift pole to get it loaded.

Seems like she had a hood on ebay earlier. Probably from the same truck.

Best of luck with your move.

Try tracing the yellow wires up to your cab. You could have a dash mounted toggle switch or a floor mounted dimmer switch to shift the motor.

Great looking truck. The photo really looks nice with the reflecting lights reflecting on the body panels.

Glad to see your pictures. So what brand name is the mixer? Is the driven off the crankshaft through cogged belts and driveshafts or possibly hydraulics? How many cubic yards capacity?

What are the particulars on the last B series Mack? Where is it now? Pictures?