mackmixer

So what caused the wax ring to "explode"?

Was the toilet base not tightened down enough? Possibly the wax ring compressed more when you set down on it?

A great way to start the day..................

I bet you killed all the rats and maybe your cat too.

A nice high bay shop...........

I hope the JB Weld works.

If it turns on you again and you have to go back in it again, you might consider cutting some brass shim stock, say 0.003 thick, the thickness of the race and wrap it on the inside of the race housing protruding up slightly out of the housing and then pressing the bearing race in the housing. I have successfully done this on smaller bearing races like a Ford truck rear carrier bearing where the race was about 2 - 2 1/2" OD

Or you can build up the housing with weld metal and turn it back to the correct ID.

Can you guys still find the shock fluid that goes in the rota shocks? glenn

I would bet that the early Ford V8 guys and forum have a source for shock fluid. Those shocks have got to be similar to the Macks, only smaller.

If you are so inclined, Rob just had a post in the last week or so with several paragraphs of how he has restored steering wheels.

Very detailed.

Here it is:

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?sho...ic=4217&hl=

Oops, you were part of the post, sorry.

Great explanation from Rob and Packer. I could even use this on my Studebaker.

Wow, that is a nice looking, well kept A series truck. The interior looks great. Looks the paint on the exterior is worn on the top sides and that is it.

How many miles is she showing? A great find!

That is really sharp. Some of the old graphics on manufacturers' boxes was really well done art work.

Both of those trucks are "wicked looking."

Beautiful work - I can't imagine how much serious time, effort, and money it took to create these.

I would love to see and hear them. Looking forward to videos, hopefully with them running.

Try using a 10 lb sledge as mass just held against the other (back) side of the tie rod arm while beating with your 8 lb sledge. Works better with a helper holding the 10 lb sledge. This adds mass and keeps the arm from shaking and absorbing the 8 lb blow. The tapered tie rod end will usually pop out with this.

I learned this is a shop 45 years ago.

Here is a good start for you on engines, horsepower, displacement, and transmissions

http://www.oldmacksrus.com//Info.htm

and of course read through all the info on this forum

Of course when you come to a Mack forum, the answer will aways be "get the Mack"

However you need to consider how you intend to use the purchase. The transam will be better for going to the movies or grocery store.

And then there is fuel, tires, repairs and insurance to worry about for each of them......

well if they don't,they oughta!

Well, I have an exmixer. It still has concrete on the frame, rear axle, and suspension.

The mixer is long gone. It's last use was as a pulpwood truck.

Most of it is under a shed at my mother-in-laws farm.

Very good information above from Rob.

You might contact Dale Hamilton of middle TN. Had a very sharp B61 that he added AC with a condensor tilted behind the cab with auxiliary fans. He also did a good job of insulating his cab and firewall.

He has sold the truck but may have some pictures of his installation. His email is drh6242@aol.com

The old shop I worked in as a teenager had one of those also. Worked great when you needed it.

I have even taken out the zerk fitting and probed around with a pick or wire in the knuckle or kingpin and broken up the old hardened grease where the fitting would take grease.

Here is a new fangled one from NAPA....very pricey

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...ol+-+Ramo-Matic

Zerk Fitting Tool - Ramo-Matic

Item#: SER416

Price: $39.69

tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Here is an FS7 that I found on craigslist. Has a few pictures. $1500

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/car/704847087.html

Here are the pictures

Well, she sold for $1500 hopefully to someone who will keep her alive.

Anybody know the buyer? krmllrd4hmt (ebay name)

I do remember from somewhere, some old Ford or Studebaker literature, that you should not use 80/90 wt gear lub in transmissions with synchronizers but I don't think the Mack transmissions have any synchronizers in them do they?

Freightrain is right on the money. I think you have a END673 not a END763

I calculated it out for 11R24.5 (about 472 rev/mile) with the 8.24 rear end, and came up with 32 mph in direct drive, 38 mph with the single reduction OD (.85) and 49 mph with the double reduction OD (.66)

That is assuming you are bumping the governor at 2100 rpm for your diesel.

I have the same rear axle ratios in my Mack mixer and the quadruplex (not sure which OD) but my Cummins CF160 diesel is rated at 2800 rpm. With 10R20's and single reduction OD puts it at 48 mph and with double reduction OD it calculates out to be 62 mph.

The rear tires aren't good enough to try to get it up to that speed yet.

These old trucks were geared for hauling big loads, not driving on the highways or interstates.

If the top of the steering wheel has a steel reinforcing plate embedded in it, I don't see why you can't mark a couple of holes opposite each other, say at 3 and 9 o'clock with a center punch and drill them out about 1/2" deep and then tap them for 5/16" or 3/8" fine thread bolts. Then use a regular puller to get the wheel off.

An old trick I learned years ago was to tighten the puller down and then rap the end of the puller screw sharply to loosen the wheel. Adding some penetrating oil on the wheel splines to soak in prior to starting this will help also.

Good luck.

From looking at the second picture, the head-on view of the Mack, it appears that the picture was taken while off the bridge or close to being off.

Smart cameraman!

You might try fogging some oil, i.e. auto transmission fluid and penetrating oil, in the cylinders and valve stems and guides to see if they will loosen up. Let it soak for several hours, preferably overnight.

Make sure to leave your plugs out while rotating the engine. Liquids don't compress very well.

Good luck.

Here is a link. Looks nice..........

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/car/608986622.html

1937 Mack jr pickup

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Reply to: see below

Date: 2008-03-17, 11:30AM EDT

1937 Mack Jr Pickup model 2M4A the smallest and rarest of the Jr's! There were only 18 ordered to be built in 1937. restored to its original condition in the 80's. I have owned the truck for 38 years. Call Fred for details 508-641-3797.

HAS 4 PHOTOS

This item has been posted by-owner.

Location: walpole

it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 608986622

And welcome!

According to http://www.oldmacksrus.com/production_numbers.htm

for the B 85, there were 455 fire trucks produced.

Scroll down to the fire trucks with the above link.

Also writing the Mack Museum will get you production data sheets and order information.

There are also some fire truck nuts that will speak up, I hope.

That is a well proportioned looking truck. Does it still look as good as the picture?