mackmixer

Remember-don't use cinder blocks for jackstands!

One of my friends had 2 cinder blocks break on him while under his Ford F250 and pinned him to the floor. A neighbor found him about 2 hours later. He only had 4 cracked ribs. Lucky to be alive!

I personally like wooden blocks 4x4's and 6x6's stacked up.

My son inherited his grandfather's 69 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside long bed truck. It is the 6 cylinder 3 speed. Sloppy column shift is hard to shift. There is so much room under the hood you could set up a picnic table.

You are doing a great job with your truck.

You have done a lot of work there.

I am sure you will enjoy running at highway speeds with the new gearing.

Not true.

I have a 1/2 ton Studebaker truck and a Mack, ex concret mixer. The cabs do look similar the way they are rounded and glass placement but the Studebakers were made inhouse in South Bend IN. The Macks are much wider to fit on the big truck frame.

The Studebaker C-cab as it is called was introduced in 1949 with the R series. The same basic cab was used up until 1964 in the large trucks (large to Stude was 2 to 2 1/2 ton).

Mack contracted their cabs out. Someone will chime in with the name of the company.

I have used Pertronix aftermarket ignition conversions sucessfully in Studebakers and older Oldsmobiles.

The Studes had either Delco Remy, Autolite or Prestolite ignitions.

You might send them an email through their website with the type of distributor you have.

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Still looking for Michiana in the US and Eastside Mack in Canada.

Phildirt

Michiana is the northern part of Indiana next to the Mich. border, i.e. South Bend, IN (home of Studebaker) and probably Michiana Mack.

My old B-42 was repowered with a Cummins diesel, a CF-160, sometime in it's life. Also fitted with a 20 speed quadraplex rather than the original 10 speed. This is a 160 hp engine rated at 2600 rpm.

I suspect parts for the old Cummins are hard to find. Have not needed anything.....yet.

There are a couple of pictures in my gallery of the engine compartment.

My old B-42 was repowered with a Cummins diesel, a CF-160, sometime in it's life. Also fitted with a 20 speed quadraplex rather than the original 10 speed. This is a 160 hp engine rated at 2600 rpm.

I suspect parts for the old Cummins are hard to find. Have not needed anything.....yet.

Here is a cross sectional view and side view of a typical Mack transmission. There is a skimmer/baffle on the upper side of the transmission that catches particles in the gear oil that are thrown up by gear movement. There is a plug that you can remove and drain the trash from this skimmer.

It is called a magnetic oil cleaner with a baffle. Remove this plug and clean out the baffle area when you change your oil. Here is a picture

I believe they are called chassis diagrams. I received one from the Mack Museum for my B-42S.

Here is a copy

Hello Mr. Ledbetter,

Thanks for the reply. Mr. Hamilton's truck subject come's up often down here in Nashville that's why I posted. Have you been doing any resto on your mack? Hope all is well and can keep her running.

mike

My Mack is a former mixer truck with it's last job as a log truck. It is at my mother-in- law's farm in N. MS so I only get to work on it when visiting. I have driven it around the farm and on some back roads.

All I have done is get her running. I have changed the oil and greased her. Straightened up and welded one of the air tanks. Got the brakes working. Put a pair of 22.5's on the front and have 8 22.5's for the rear but don't have them on yet.

I have patched the driver's seat. Need to straighten out the wiring and get all the gauges working. I do have it stored in an old tin roof shed so it is not out in the weather.

Just a play toy. I live in Knoxville....

David

Please enlighten us all......

The suspense is killing me....

I saw this truck several years ago in Cookeville, TN. I think Dale is from around Murfreesboro and worked for the state. Probably can find him with a people search

Very nice truck and personalized for his use.

Dale sold it to a guy in Maryland.

You can look at all of his posts by clicking on Dale's name and this clicking on his posts.

Here is a link when he sold it and the email of the guy who bought it...

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=2998&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

My old B-42, vintage 1962, still has the original brown seat covers. The driver's seat is very torn and worn, but both seats have breathing holes stamped in the backs and possibly the bottoms too (I can't remember) Seems like a circular pattern starting in the middle of the seat cushion.

Make sure that your new rotor button is not leaking secondary voltage (high) through the button and grounding to the top of the distributor shaft.

You can check this easily by removing the distributor cap and taking the coil wire out of the center of the cap and put it on top of the rotor button to see if it discharges through the new rotor button while turning the engine over with the coil.

If it does then your new rotor button is leaking high voltage through to the distributor shaft and you won't get good spark through the button to the spark plugs.

Didn't they have a logo of

"Humping to Please" ?

That's the "baby quad box"

TRQ77 or 770.

Thank you. I assume that it can't take as must torque as the larger quad boxes. I am sure it is adequate for the Cummings CF-160.

My '63 B42 came from the factory as a gas powered Mack with a 10speed duplex (5 speed & 2 speed). It was repowered at some point with a Cummins C160 diesel with a guadraplex transmission but the 5 speed lever is still on the left (driver's side) and the 4 speed lever is on the right (pass side). Both sticks are the same length and have the same single bend in them.

I have seen this labeled as a 18 speed quadraplex rather than a 20 speed and have seen a shift pattern plate in a cab of a '56 Mack on ebay like this with 5 + 4 rather than 4 + 5 for the shift lever orientation.

So am I correct to say that I have a 18 speed quadraplex? I can only guess that the engine and transmission came out of another Mack mixer truck owned by the same company.

Can anyone shed any light on this?

As has been discussed before here, you can always drill and tap the boss and use a conventional steering wheel puller.

I have always tried the "hammer and knee" method, using one or both knees to put pressure on the back side of the spokes while hitting first.

A good soaking of penetrating oil at the splines may help.

Look at this guy's Gallery

Lots of neat stuff.

I have one question on this truck

What are the knobs on the steering wheel??????

I would guess that one is manual spark advance, and another is throttle.

Look at oldmacksrus.com under B model info

B75LS

B-75 made from 55-66 no. produced 1,619 in chassis versions T, LT, S, LS, ST, LST

L - light weight or weight reduced by using aluminum components

S - six wheel chassis (tandem axle)

I assume that started with chassis no. 1000 or 1001.

As said above, the Mack Museum can document your truck with copies of the original order no. and build sheets of how it was fitted.

Write or call them

duplicate please delete

Here is a real Studebaker Conestoga wagon and station wagon

A good story.

Does Momma have any broken yard sticks around?

You need to put a half of one in each truck so you can check your fuel tanks as you light them off.

I have one for my old '63 B and a real fancy one for the Model T that has the gallons marked on it.

What does the aspirin do?

"I was woundering when should the main and rod bearings be rolled,"

You can measure the clearance of the main and rod bearings with Plastigage to help you decide whether to roll new ones in.

Do the mains individually so the crankshaft will still be centered with adjacent main bearings pulled up tightly.

Be sure to remove all the Plastigage that squeezes on the crankshaft..........