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25- 30 psi

Codes ????

Or Loose wheel bearings

I'm a bolt and pry bar guy as well the kent tool only comes out when it got a stuck one!

Its possible the boost pop off valve has stuck open ! its the brass fitting hose and 1 inch steel pipe that lead back to the exhast pipe from the inlet and egr mixer tube!

HELLO???? This is a Mack forum bleeding the air from the cable is a little tough! that assist is constant feed .

ARE you driving a volvo or a mack?On A volvo hydralic Clutch you sumtimes have to stand the slave cyl upon its end to bleed em!

Yup keep an eye on both ends the coolant and the trans I just ran across the beginings of one of these the other day! Fortuantly didnt wreck the trans yet! we ussually get em after the damage is done!

injection lines yada yada you need a donor engine to do this it would be too pricy otherwise

Make sure you observe the width of the roller on the pump you take off if its a wide roller your OK if the roller is a narrow roller you can cause your self problems Compare the pump your putting in to the pump your taking off! Wide on narrow is ok narrow to wide is a problem.

These were notorious for loose valve seats and worn valve guides! listen carfully after the engine is warmed up, when shuting it down you may hear a pop pop coming from the head area!That is tipicly a valve seat.

You need to preasure test the Whole intake system for leaks ! I have seen intake gaskets blow a chunk out! cap off the hose at the turbo side of the charge air and put regulated shop air into the hole where the puff limiter reversing relay WAS and crank it to about 30 psi you will likly find a cracked cooler or intake gasket blown out!

OR At idle run propane or ether around all of the intake system if ya hear and increase in RPM you have found your leak pay real close attention to the ends of the charge air core they tend to crack!

If you have steel rims check for a cracked inner wheel! (Usually) power divider problems are an fairly evenliy spaced clunk along time in between usually caused by missed matched tires.

Thanx for clearing that up Staxx I Kinda wondered about the bearing issue ,they we only did half a dozen trucks here and heard no more about it, as time went on the issue kind of faded!

Cover the jake heads with a rag and operate it manualy by pushing in on the center of the sol with the engine running see if you can get it to operate Observe how much if any oil is getting passed the slave pistons on the under side of the housings if there is lots the housing are likly the culpret this was a real comon problem with these,The oil line kit will likly be pricy as it consists of new jake heads and spacer plates and lines! ALL of the above helped but only marginally The pump and bearings helped the most and would be allot cheaper than the oil line kit in my opinion!There was a special bearing supplyed for sum engines which reduced the bering clerance from 3 thou to1 .5 thou if I recall correctly!Ya may want to check into this IF you can find a good oldtine parts guy Barry may remember this or have a buliten he can look up!

and yes the plugs I spoke of are on the rocker shaft ends!If there is one missing you will only have one head operating!

As for setting them up 21 thou in my opinion is counter productive you already have a shit brake and 21will make it worse, I have always set them at 15 (even with the updated screws) when you think about how it works the more gap you give it The less you open the valve the less effective the brake! The 21 set would open the valve 6 thou less! Again just an opinion and a bit of Trial and error experiance.Less the error part !

Also run power to the jakes with a jumper wire and see if you and make em work cold then hot!

Did make sure the plugs were in the ends of the rocker shafts??? it is quite common for them to pop out!

If you took the delivery valve out you need to snug the nut back down did you do this?If you are still having greif post a picture of the pump it my help us determine what your up against.I use a hose and blow thru it to time most of the time!

The sol is toward the front of the pump it has wire going to it with a screw on top.

Also the older pumps have a slip clutch on the pump cam ,if the clutch gets worn the engine can over speed if your simply going to governed rpm your golden, if its going over the governed speed be carful not to be stomping on the throtle as it reaches top rpm It may not come back down! Its possible its a sticky rack or simply a throtle cable / lever issue operate it at the pump and see what it does !

is the check engine light on on the dash? the timing advance solnoid is likly haywire!You could save your self the bucks of buying the sol by doing this I have found that replacing the solnoid Does not always fix the problem changing the timing will fix the problem for ever! I have had this happen I have ended up setting the timeing up to 10 degees its a farely big job because there is alot of stuff to move out of the way to get to the timing gear and you got to drain the coolant. but all in all its worth it!

We put straights or turnouts on pretty much anything we send out ! The burner screens pile up in the corner of the wearhouse!

Could be, my memory is a little fuzzy. Seems like there were a few buzzing around.

I remember going to engine school in Dallas right before the engines came out in full force. They had an E-Tech in there and a camshaft was on the table, we all stood there looking at it. The instructor told us to take a good look at that cam because it would be the last time we would see one 'cause it was the answer to Mack's cam problems. Yeah right

I always get a chuckle out of these guys that are so easily brain washed by corperate propaganda .The proof is in the pudding True Mack Guys like to beleive that Mack could do no wrong! But the actual truth is they were or are no diffirent than any other big company they tended to experiment with the public! The ETEC engine was chucked out there half baked in my opinon Cams started failing 6 months out, they didn't test it long enough no time! same with egr BIG RUSH get it out there! DEADLINES just like the OCC shows on TV on a big scale. The 2004 egr stuff was a mess that had to be with out a doubt the biggest mess they chucked out there ,Good thing was that everyone else was in the same stew can .It really never did get sorted out! I give the the Big V credit here They really got there shit together for the most part with the emissions this stuff (for the most part) is working quite well with minimal failure . At least hre in my part of the world!

BRO!

some of the stuff your doing heres scaring me A bit ! Don't be putting 12 v to stuff with out knowing what its about!!

do you have any other symtoms here blu smoke black smoke ??? If the timing advance has stuck or inop the engine will stumble and limit the rpm somewhat and smudge blu fuely smoke.

Your first description of this I immediatly thought throtle pedal issue If you start the truck with the throtle unpluged it will default to 1200 ! pull the panel on the right hand kick and check the Vehicle ECU plug for water damage!I have seen the windsheild leak and cause this exsact symtom happen with fubared pins in the vecu.Your truck May have VMAC 2 a one peice ecu /vecu but check into this anyway.

Just sum more info the cam keys are not the same on some HP engines Be sure this guy PAYS atention when pressing off the gear and removing the key some are off set majority are straight but you may have a minority engine 460 HP is straight!

Bummer!

The cam is likly damaged

Check fuel preasure to the injecton pump !