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fjh

BMT Benefactor
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Posts posted by fjh

  1. Its q pain how ever with bolts out try get the non lever side out first it has no key!   the clutch arm has to has to come off as you need to remove the woodruff  key on this side and have to turn the shaft to get to it!once that is done the shaft will come out far enough to remove the fork!

    You will likly have to remove the rear motor mount to get the drivers side shaft past the frame! you have a CL it has thick mounts it will gain you loads of space

  2. Kev

    sent me these links!

    https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/AutomotiveNews/AutomotiveNews_EN/MANN_HUMMEL_Automotive_News_2012-2_en.pdf

    http://www.us.mahle.com/mahle_north_america/en/news-and-press/press-releases/modularity-and-functional-integration-in-the-engine-periphery-of-commercial-vehicles-7361

    As Glenn mentioned in the log run it comes down to Cheap assness!

    (WONDER Why THE big V aint gone Here yet!) ( CHEAP)

    And in my mind the  the idea of having to disturb those filter inserts ( CROSS contamination )Far worse than filling a filter with clean fuel or oil!

    So one small vote for the volvo method For now! ( Its only a matter of time till Cheap mode kicks in At the Big V !)

  3.  

    If I make an attempt to adjust the linkage what exactly am I doing?  How do I do it?


    example western star ! If you shorten the link at the fire wall  you will get more brake lengthen you take away! Set this first it never changes except for wear of the brake its self!  On Our Macks you have five places to choose from  the cable ends  ,the cable sheath both ends or the proper one on the trans arm its self if its not seized !    Then wind the ring inside to Get the 1 1/2 free pedal OR  = 1/2 inch  gap between the clutch brake and the throw out bearing! On MOST Vehicles! It comes down to how you like it set after that  I personally like the clutch to start engaging approx half way up So the 1/2 inch  gap  = 1 1/2 free pedal  ,  May be a A little less than 1/2 inch at the bearing  and more like 2 inch at the pedal for my liking !

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  4. If they haven't flashed the ecu don't ask em to you may loose the xt file for ever I beleive it has been disallowed how ever mack pro would know this for sure!

    i am not positive of this it was a rumor floating around!

  5.  

    Saw a youtube vid.... half boy/half monkey. Probably the same guy.

    Some would argue grease has positive affect......don't give more than "A" pump. 

    I'm one of those guys ! Grease will not hurt it ! I install the aluminum style brake WITH grease Just so the drivers can't wreck them as fast! set the brake RIGHT on the floor so they have to dig for it  Half/ 3/4  inch off the floor max. Agree or disagree ! This has work ed in my favor for he last 30 years ! I Ain't Changin Now !  If it ain't broke Don't Fix it! :rolleyes:

  6. Yup for that brief period the filter kits came with dog turds in place of the water filter ! The casting sand fiasco did happen about that time !

    That.s one of those things that  I thought should have been a PI Campaign  but it never was!  Other than if you had and overheating compressor ( check here  note! )  Still run in to the odd block with a the casting sand issue with liners removed  is very evident ! 

  7. Yup Glenn is correct ! With the exception of VOLVO OR anything else with A Hydraulic  operated clutch! If there anyone else Think Freightliner might use that crap too ?  Everything with a linkage or a cable will require that you adjust the linkage to Get the clutch brake set correctly FIRST Then set the inside to your desired height of engagement with the internal ring!

  8. yup Pays to ask questions!  Like when did this start and have you changed anything yourself  before This started that may have influenced this complaint !Guys are sometimes their worst enemies  Withholding  info how ever small it may seem! Can make a big difference in an out come can  send you chasing your tail for such a simple thing!

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