fjh

17 minutes ago, Whiskymack said:

That makes a lot of sense. Did the R-700 ever get the E9? It seems like there wasn't much room in there for CMCAC without a redesign of the front end.

 

Lots of mods to fit it have seen it done once! 

2 hours ago, 1965 said:

If you have a solo clutch, best thing to do is R&R it with an easy pedal clutch first time you have a problem with the solo clutch.

Yup Agreed! Have seen way to many of these fail in the same way! best solution is the above ! I wish they would go back to the old style notch adjuster on the easy pedal platform! Don't early see any advantage to the wrench winder!

3 minutes ago, HeavyGunner said:

Just a guess but I know drivers who don’t know what a clutch brake is or how it works can be hell on them. Especially when they use them to stop when rolling up to a stop sign. 

AGREE!

 First thing is thing is the throw out bearing is not being greased from what I can see there! It is  possible the clutch adjustment is out of whack the linkage needs to be set so as when the pedal Just reaches the floor the brake just contacts the face of the clutch! if it was set To deep and the previous driver was in the habit of pushing the clutch to the floor with the truck in gear and rolling it will wipe the brake out! wrong thing to do poor driving habits!

Ah yup that’s true of that era still looks to had no coolant! Straight water is not the best for them blocks. Hope you didn’t hit the crank jacking them liners out!😢

Looks like there was no coolant in that! Straight water probably killed it  ,to bad ! It pays to run antifreeze and a change the coolant filter once and a while!

Check your counter bores closely!

just a cummins they have there issues!

Give us a Side view! How thick?

Bro I think turbo washer now I know the size seen this before turbo gave out at som point .

you have only had this truck for a year do you have history  on the unit bet it had a turbo failure!

Eup cap? Doing retainer maybe don’t no how it could get out of the lifter thou?

Hard to tell the size of it.

could be a turbo washer from a previous failure  hopefully a valve spring it can be replaced in frame!

In the vmac III  program you should be able to see the temps the ambient air  is seeing the inlet air temp should be visible as well ! Is it possible they bent a pin on the ECU while installing the new Harness?

correct it may have stuck after sitting wouldn't fuss if it has no code now! How old is the oil!  Maybe change the oil !When its working correctly , It gets its orders from the the ecu the timing event marker and the cam sensor according to temp  ect!

Is the code still active? The if the timing advance is working you should not have smoke if it’s not working and smoking blu white smoke  the screens in the timing Solenoid could be plugged up with goo! 

19 hours ago, Solarjeff said:

Truck goes down the road and then goes limp with no throttle response and sits at 600RPM until you pull over. Once on the side of the road and fully stopped it just shuts off and then fires right back up and good to go some more. Sometimes you get 5 minutes, sometimes 30 minutes. All battery cables and ECM cables are tight and clean. Found oil in harness leading to low oil cutoff on pan and cleaned harness, plug and sensor. Found source of oil leak to be o-ring on side of valve cover. ECM connectors are dry and clean. Drove truck again and Same issues afterward. No codes on dash. 

Disconnect the big plug at the engine  ECU and wash the oil out with brake clean see how that goes for ya! just something to try! This was a common issue at one point!

Good Job Bro!

5 hours ago, old dog said:

Well, have have complete Reman engine installed. The old engine used to derate sometimes, didn't last for long i knew it had a  crook No 1 eup. New engine derates on and off all day  wastegate abnormal signal response. The dealer had it for a day ended up saying " we don't know whats wrong with it" bring it back next week. Just about over them. Any idea's please. ?

Is It coding when it derates?   if its producing any more than 33 psi boost it may d rate!

as much as the above statment is some what true have you checked for boost leaks? your pyro is to way high!

3 minutes ago, fjh said:

The offset and Taper helps align the teeth with friction  when the shift is make your fuller trans has the same set up however much simpler in design and Less complicated! And way Cheaper to Repair IF it fails!! Make sure all the pieces marked R are faceing Rear and your good to go! That set up used to be offered as a pre assembled unit  just drop the discs and seperators in and go! if I remember right! Try to make sure you install your snap rings with the sharp edge to the rear rounded edge facing the bearing!

The offset and Taper helps align the teeth with friction  when the shift is make your fuller trans has the same set up however much simpler in design and Less complicated! And way Cheaper to Repair IF it fails!! Make sure all the pieces marked R are faceing Rear and your good to go! That set up sed to be offered as a pre assembled unit  just drop the discs and seperators in and go! if I remember right!

11 hours ago, DieselDog5.9 said:

I always thought Mack Transmissions were wicked rugged, 6 speed and 12 speed especially, figured 18 speed would be similar, didn't think you could break one.

You don't often see the plate carrier busted up that bad ! usually the clutch  and reaction discs are toasted !  was the yoke bolt tight?

Yup this is why Daves comment  is somewhat valid! The price gouge on those is your next hurdle! Volvo wants you to buy a new truck So Those parts will not be cheap!   That same failure on a fuller When it does happen which is not that often ! will cost a 1/3 or less than the Mack parts! They are going to ask you if you would like it dri or lubricated BEND OVER BUD! . Check out PAI for part pricing! That being said These tranys have put food on my table for a lot of years ! Just like injector cups will make work for the new generation of guys for a few more years!!

2 minutes ago, fjh said:

WE HAVE A TAKE OUTAI  460 ! CALL RYAN FERNAMONT  @ NANAIMO MACK COM ! 2507580185

YOU WILL BE DOING A LOT OF PARTS SWAPING AS THE ENGINE IS FROM A CV713 WATER PUMP ECT!

23 hours ago, GRBGMN said:

Thank you for the responses!  In Canada I have been able to find a fair number of AI-300 engines, but the small town I live in doesn't have a diesel shop that can reprogram the trucks computer for the right HP settings, so I will be likely getting a 350hp engine out of the US.  Unfortunately, the closest engine I've found is in Houston, TX.  The joys of running a business.

Thanks again!

WE HAVE A TAKE OUT 460 ! CALL RYAN @ NANANAIMO MACK COM ! 2507580185

17 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

When I do in-chassis synchro on the ISX I typically do range cylinder removed to clear case removal. I think we are talking about two different things, your talking about trans removal. 

I’ve attempted the Teflon range seals without the tool, you kill it. Good option to leave it if your away from home or special tooling. 

yup

1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

Fred, correct me if I’m wrong. He can’t leave the shift cylinder on since the cylinder has to come off to miss the cab X-Member (with ISX). ISX moved the trans back. So in the case of in-chassis you pull shift cylinder, and out of chassis on bench you can leave it in.

Top REAR engine mount rubbers removed the trans should clear the x member  shift cyl on!