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theakerstwo
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Posts posted by theakerstwo
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I cant remember if it can or not.If that engine was the ENDT A or B or C it could be.
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That is a full flow made by luber/finer.
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6 hours ago, fjh said:
Joey ! When you up root that liner check the outside of it for size markings ! They offered P numbers on these ! Glenn correct me if I'm wrong But OVERSIZED liners weren't uncommon can't remember the sizes 2 thou increments I believe ! I have installed up to 10 thou over before! pain in the ass honed for ever!
>002 is as big as i ever honed block to and i think if they need more honing we pulled them out and sent block to mach shop and let them bore to maybe .020.
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You are correct on the .002 over size.I have hone that much out of the block before and it takes some time.I remember our red headed night foreman as homing a block one night with a maybe 3/4 drill motor that was very slow speed.i saw him run the sun hone too deep in the block and hang the crank which in return stop the drill motor by slapping him in the cods with one of the handles of the drill.He set down on the fender of the B model and just set there.I say do you hurt and he say yes then he drops his pant to find one cod with no skin on it.Thats when i started to hurt. Those old END 170 engine was bad to deform the block bore.Later engines with the 20 head bolt heads was not that bad and they let the liner be installed some looser.
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You can drop the pan on a B model.
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On a E 6 just hone the block and try the liner.If its all good it should go by hand almost one half down and then with a clean block of wood pound it down.
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Back when these engine were in production the liners were a press fit like .0005. we had to install with dry ice.When the maxidyne came out it was almost a slid in fit with out a press fit.We was sure glad.
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Rings are better now but also the liners was what i remember as plasma honed in the later year that helped the oil sealing.The had what old tiers would have said honed with a hay rack meaning the had deep cross honing.
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Larry i still have magna flux kit and a dye kit.The magna flux will find cracks that i cant see with dye.
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19 minutes ago, mowerman said:
ok thanks for that larry....getting back to the engine,,,im surprized it wasnt making a hell of a racket,with all that damage..bob
It was when ever it did it i promise you.
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In the mid sixtys the dealership here sold a f model with the first ENDT864 that i ever saw.It used oil like other engines for a few months and the owner of the dealership told us to put some Comet Cleanser in the intake.i was working the night shift and saw this.There was no Comet Cleanser there so the forman got a hand full of dust from the top of one of the shop heaters and run thru the intake as it was running.That repaired it for using oil.
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I have schooled on cat cummins and DD and this is alway talked about in school.All instructers say same thing that if you need to add a sealer the instrution will cover this.Some gaskets have rubber seal in them some were and any sealer installed on them will serve as a lube and can squrte out and leak.I have pulled head gaskets off of blocks with about ever thing on them you can think of and so we all ways blame that for a short life.I dont know but i know the factory dont ask for any more than what come out of the box.I dont think alummin paint on a steel gasket will hurt it if its allowed to dry.But i also dont see what its going help.One car mechanic told me years back that he thinks it will help a steel gasket lay flatter under pressure.
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Some car mechanics felt that paint was good for a steel gasket.
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The thermostat housing comes apart and has three bolts in it.
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Remove the studs and wire brush and look for pits.Reuse and install in block finger tight.Dont do like some and put a sealer on the head gasket.Back years ago we would bring truck back in after a few miles and retorque.That is done by back each nut off one at a time and oiling it and retorquing.
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Larry if that was a 237 then it should have a thermostatI Alot of the END 673 engins in the later 50s did not but did use a 170 degree shutterstat.The also did not have a oil cooler on some of them.
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If you force the engine to turn you could bend a rod.
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1 hour ago, theakerstwo said:It looks to me like it may have had some rolled liner seals when they were installed.
For those that dont know what a rolled liner seal does, it makes the liner bore smaller at that point and when the engine runs hot for some reason the piston will score.
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It looks to me like it may have had some rolled liner seals when they were installed.
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I dont need to sound like i know it all but have seen them pulled different ways and there is no easy way if the seal at the top of the injector has leaked water down into the tube and that happens when the rubber seal gets old.
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Dont use any heat and dont take any manifolds off.You can remove a couple head bolt nuts to give you some more room there and you dont know any one that has pulled as many of these as me so i can tell you your not going to break the ears off.
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the last year b models was built some did not have shutters.I have seen one .
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With a stuck injector i have used a punch and hammer and tap on the injector to twist it one way and then tap on it the other way to twist it and some times it will break loose.The right size heel bar will pull ever one i have pulled.
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I have used a heel bar for years.With a slide hammer you would pull the threads and it would be easy to do.
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Pulling injectors on a 673
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
Some times on a cummins 335 by 200,000 it need a set of brgs or worst.On all engines oil filter systems got much better as well as oil. On a 335 cummins and even a FFC engine a oil system was designed to by/pass the filter with a 15 lb differengal by/pass valve spring.This means if the out put of the filter was less than 15 lbs of the input then the by/pass valve would open and let enough pressure by/pass the filter so the engine would get full pressure.The problem with this is ever time the engine is started the oil can by/pass the filter and what ever the cold oil picks up from the pan to go thru the system.When the Big can engines came out the oil pump had a 120 lb psi relieve valve in the pump and a better filter element that will not destroy its self with the higher pressure.The filter now has a 55 lb pressure differential by/pass valve spring on it and this way the pump almost makes all oil go thru the filter at start up.But after the oil enters the engine there is a sense line connected to the pump from the oil galley and this way the pump will even its self out to filter all oil an maintain enough pressure to fed the system which is about 40 psi. 800000 is normal now for brgs on most engines.There is other things that help a engine of today get more life also like engine timing.