theakerstwo

Hi

I have the same problem with my E9. I was told to fill with any kind of high temp sealent when cold and hope it slows down till carbin can plug up. I tried some stuff call Good Stuff but it did not work. I will be watching hope someone can help

Go mto caterpillar and check with parts.Cat makes a epoxey that is for that purpose. glenn

do you have a maxitorque trans just laying around anywhere

Let me tell you what will hapen when you use a 13 or 15 speed behind a maxidyne.First thing is it will work but you will not like your self for doing it because i have seen it done sevral times.the last 600 or 700 RPMs in the torque range is dead on a maxidine for as the torque rise and the RPM splits in a 13 speed is around 300 RPM and maybe 500 RPM in a 15 speed so you would be riseing in toque real slow at the top RPM. A 8LL eaton would be another good trans if you dont like the 6 speed trans.A 13 or 15 speed would be ok if you would pull pump and have calibrated to a 10% to 17% torque rise like a ENDT 250 pump was set then your torque will be better at top RPM.,But you dont have that low end torque like a maxidyne. glenn

Heat checking, like this is common. You are probably looking at $75.00 to $100.00, to have it resurfaced. If you are going to fabricate an engine stand to mount the engine and transmission to start and run. and will only use it for something like show and tell. You would probably be better off in the long run, just to clean everything up and put it back together as is. It would be a different story, if you are planning to use it in a truck application. In that case, a NEW CLUTCH, not a new rebuilt clutch, is the way to go. YOU CANNOT BUY ANYTHING BETTER THAN A SPICER. If you just can't find new. Felton's Clutch Service, Chattanooga Tn. can rebuild yours.

I have used some that was not that good. that flywheel is hard to come by I would grind it some but dont try to take the cracks out but enough to clean up and that is for a mack push type clutch and that is not good for much horse power like a hot end 675 or 676 unless it is 2 plate. this was common in there day because if they were not adjusted when need be they would slip and get hot. glenn

Is it possible to convert a single axle B model to tandem axle if you have a good cut off set of tandems, and how would you go about doing it? Thanks.

Yes you can do that first strech your frame the wheel base you want and if useing a mack set up then slide your tandem in the frame and bolt it down. glenn

Or bar the engine over using the flywheel teeth?

Cummins engines were turned that way in the past, and there was a special tool that was bolted to the bellhousing and was a one hand operation.

Packer

I like to jack up one rear wheel and put the trans in high gear in both boxs and get some one to bump over the wheel which a little girl can do while you watch the marks and they will be on bottom of fly wheel or on latter engines on damper or if out of a f model they can be on top of flywheel glenn

If that engine came with out the air comp. try to remember to install mthe oil tube in the end of the drive shaft fore the comp. or it will not last very long. glenn

My 98 CH has Eaton rear axles. There are 3 plugs on the rear pumpkin. The top is obviously the fill. There is one not to far below the fill plug and one at the bottom of the housing. Which one do i use to drain the rear end??

Thanks in advance.

Rob W.

Do i get 3 trys or is this a trick question? glenn

I never burn up piston? the blackbox give no advance timming , only keep same timming like engine run cool! is not engine gaz?

i use them around one years! and more ,i put the high flows injector 90 HP!! i nerver burn piston! i use EGT!

Ya black box it very bad for engine i no use it, burn up engine if not use pryometer but use pryometer you be ok. glenn

First(i try my english)

(for only mack 1998 to 2006 V-mac3) because ,no mack blixxton for this years!only blixmack 1993-1997 ...(My black box is for only mack 1998 to 2006 V-mac3)

...Very easy... th black box install on intake air manifold and other sensor prestone (for always run with good timming more prestone warn up more timming décrease)...I cheap computer,because a put the good OHM for the computer thinks the prestone and air ambiant is very cold! air very cold =little more fuel!little more fuel = HP...little bit again fuel economie.....

give around 5 to 7%HP 5 to 7% torque...around 10 -20 hp MAX...

AsK 75$ for only intake air manifold,and 25$ for sensor prestone, i use around one year on my truck! no problem!

i have paypal or money order

benal@ca.inter.net

That box you got there is the fastest was short of draining the coolant out of a engine that i know of to burn up some pistons because you are advanceing the timeing too much to kept the exhaust cool. glenn

Ok yall got a quick question ..

"Olddog" (B422T ) is in need of a radatior the fins are just bout shot & the radator starting to drip & leak just a bit

Question is can i retro fit a radiator out an R Or DM Model or buy 1 new that will fit the truck & where could i find 1? or do i have this repaired ?

Barry, Fred , Herb or any body else have an idea ?

Thanks yall

call him up and tell him to take to rad shop and have them to recore and he will get a new core and they will use his old tanks .that is what i did to mine and you can some times get a bigger and better core. glenn

I think you are looking at what i call a sluge vavle or purge vavle or spitter vavle and it sees water and spits but dont have a signal line and in my eyes ant too good. glenn

That has nothing at all to do with this topic. The truck does have air brakes., tandem axel. I have no clue of what the whole "inline" and such are.

now i have enough info to tell you how it will coast if you do it 50.00 dollars per alxe and if shop does it 75.00 dollars

so juat be safe bring about 110.00dollars and tell mthe man your are in ahurry and maybe he will save you some time. glenn

What would the average cost of new drums and what not be for the older trucks? if a tire/wheel size is needed for this price, I will run to the junkyard tommarow night. I would guess that it will need all new brakes, seems how it is only used once a year, and has not been touched after '84.

I whent to the other web site that you posted and i don see any reason to go back to it again because there is no reason to have to read dirty talk like that is left there. there is better ways of conmucating than that.but to tell you the cost to do a brake job tell us what it is and how old and what kind of brakes is it stopmaster or cam brakes and is out board or inboard and how many axles. is it air brakes?The age of truck does not mean that the brakes are bad . glenn

Just out of curiosity: What would the result be if a truck was towed long distance with both transmissions in neutral? I don't know how the oiling system works with these transmissions and if the auxilary section is splash lubricated, or lubricated by the oil pump in the main transmission. I know my "yellow dog" was towed over 100 miles at highway speed before I got it with both transmissions in neutral and it does not appear to be hurt. The truck is a real "singer" through the driveline but with the driveshaft disconnected from the brake drum, and in high gear against the governor, the transmission is quiet; This is at least to my untrained ear. If you put the aux in neutral, and shift the main, it is also quiet so I don't think the transmission is hurt. This truck as you know is just a yard jockey and sees no real usage off my property. I don't have enough stands to effectively get the tandems up off of the floor and run the driveline live.

Thanks,

Rob

The reason you dont whant to tow with both in netural is same as any manual trans the main shaft is turning because the rear yoke is on that shaft and the main gears can not turn because they are in mesh with the counter shaft and it cant turn because it is mesh with the input gear and input shaft and it is in the clutch and it is not turning so if you have been towed very far it can burn up the bushing in the main gears on the main shaft of a single counter shaft trans and on a 2 counter shaft trans you will burn the thrust up and the gears on the main shaft .

The reason is because they cant get no grease up on them because the counter shaft gears are not turning and the grease in not high enough to get to the main shaft ,I have seen alot of trans burnt up from a new tow truck driver that did not know that .I seen one pulled from okc to tulsa which is 100 miles and the drive line still hooked up and the driver towed it to me and i showed it to him and told him to feel of it and he said i can feel it from here it is hot.You could spit on it and it who spit back at you. glenn

I know we have spoken of this before but I can't remember what ratio I need to run 75mph with 11RX22.5 rubber and a RTO-12513 transmission. I'm also wanting to be between 1800 to 1950 rpm for good flat land speed. The tractor currently has 4.17 rears that I'll probably keep for one of my B models.

Thanks again,

Rob

Here is the road speed calulator look on right side for the road speed calulator glenn

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/index.htm

There's a little plunger type oil pump on the input shaft in the TR 72, 720, 7220 series transmissions, Rob.

Pump only pumps when engine is runing and that trans will wear the bushing out real fast on the main shaft geares.

Them gears are hard to come by.I have towed my truck when at idle . glenn

the meritor trans may be eletric instead of air on the range now if it is get under there and see if air is coming out of the trans, breather and if so you know where it is now but if so you should have a shifting problem. glenn

Your saying its inside the engine compartment or next to the cab?

To help out these guys that are helping you, you may get some one to turn the ign. on and off while you get up close and listen untill you find out if it is inside or out side then once you know that get back on here and tell us but i have found it is hard to tell what the problem is unless you are there and you are there so if i was you and can hear the leak then put your hand in there and start to pull and tough and rub around things untill you hear a change and now you know where it is a little now look with a good light for a oily spot where air may be leaking becuse some times there is a little oil in the air and it is left on the leaking spot and now dirt gets mix on that and it makes a dirty spot. I am not sure but i think you said it leaks with key on but do the engine need be runing? glenn

That appears to be a classic.

ENDT673 @205 HP.

It has to be a VERY early one (mid 50's) because there weren't many turbo motors made without an oil cooler and without a full flow oil filter.

That water cooled turbo is also a rarity, I ran across a motor with one of those in a junkyard back in the 70's. Didn't need a motor at the time or realize then what I had found.

BTW, that was at that big truck junkyard in Elmsford NY. (don't know if it's there anymore).

While it is a rare engine, it also looks like it's been sitting outside unprotected for years and that appears to be the air compressor intake line thats pointing upward and has probably been swallowing rainwater for some time.

Chances are the engine is stuck, but for $250.00 what the hell, I'm sure you could use something from it, or from the trans.

You are right that is a 50s mack engine and that is a 500 luberfiner bypass oil filter and you could not put a full flow on that engine and i remeber the switzer water cooled turbo and i dont remeber if they came with a oil cooler.

many people put turbos on them and did not i guess put a oil cooler on them but when i think about it it did not have a full flow oil filter then you would not have any oil line to care the oil to the oil cooler because the 500 luber finer filter only used #6 oil lines . glenn

I dont know what kind or what year truck you got but let me play like it is a late model so when ign. is on it may be a air fan problem.more infro will help alot these other guys may know what you have but i domt glenn

What is the APE# stamped on the fuel pump for . is it a calabration for a specific engine. We have a few old spare fuel pumps but have no clue what they came off of. We want to put one on our pulling truck. hoping one is a 300HP model

Thanks

trent

The APE3 is the model of pump but for caibration you will need the other # and I think it is on the governor and a dealer or pump shop can tell you about that because 300 can take different pumps. glenn

I wasnt arguing that with you, i know cavitation can be a problem. I just wasnt sure if it was dry liner or not. That takes the liner seal out of the question. You could presureize the cylendar couldnt you? And the check if your pushing coolant out. Just make sure the piston your checking is at bottom. But being that its a 711 i would guess the that headgasket is the problem.

Dont even drain the coolant untill you have pulled the pan and found the leak but some times you cant find it then with many hourn of checking then you can tar into it and start hopeing or guessing but as old as that engine is it could have a cavitated block behind a sleeve and may be hard to find but I have been in them for a simple inframe and have antifrezze drope on me from between the block and sleeve and then put sleeve and find a pin hole in block which then have a sleeve put in it to bring back to standard but have aways found the holes at the bootom of the water.Could be a oil cooler but should have oil in coolant. can be a injector sleeve leaking at the bottom into the clyinder when shut down but then you should have compression in radiator.glenn

Sounds like the parking brake vavle is wrong so check when there is no air on system and see if the vavle is spring loaded out that would be the right vavle and there is another vavle that looks alike but is not sping loaded.Also the later trucks will not set the park brakes untill as low as 30psi and when I worked at freighliner we had many times when drivers though they should set at 65psi like old time systems and we was have trouble exsplainig to then so I pulled it out of the sevice manuel and made copies for all and that problem when away. glenn

And about theaair dryer the old one was a ad9 bendix and was good dier but all trucks use the the small light weight and it will work as good as old one but cost more be buy byt lighterin weight. glenn

Hey guys,

My parkiing brake knob doesn't pop out until the pressure is down to 0 psi. Is the valve behind the knob bad??? Also, I've been driving a 95 CH613 for about 10 years...it has a big ass air dryer on it. I just bought a 98 CH and it needs a new air dryer....but the one on it now is tiny compared to the 95. Why the difference? Thanks in advance.

Rob

Sounds like the parking brake vavle is wrong so check when there is no air on system and see if the vavle is spring loaded out that would be the right vavle and there is another vavle that looks alike but is not sping loaded.Also the later trucks will not set the park brakes untill as low as 30psi and when I worked at freighliner we had many times when drivers though they should set at 65psi like old time systems and we was have trouble exsplainig to then so I pulled it out of the sevice manuel and made copies for all and that problem when away. glenn

Does anyone know how to diagnose jake brake porblems?? Mine works occasionally. The guy i bought the truck from was under the impression that the spring switch near the clutch was the problem. I unhooked the 2 wires and used a jumper but that didn't help. I really dont want to go to the Mack dealer. Any ideas??? Thanks

Rob

we may be able to help but need to know some info like what engine and what year and does the jakes work good when they do come on and by that

i mean is it a electric or mechanicecal problem if it never holds goog then it may be under the covers and then you can gather more info from that glenn