doubleclutchinweasel

7 hours ago, GA_Dave said:

I was still in high school in NY State when that was filmed.  My current house is less than two miles from where the Bandit jumped the bridge, but you'd never find the exact spot because so much has changed. 

Yep.  Not much evidence left of the bridge.  And this was a few years ago.  Even less there now.

12 hours ago, 1961H67 said:

Thank you,, I’m going to try and make it! ( Spent the day in Robbinsville today,, Moving equipment and hauling bridge beams on the road widening projects) 

Oh.  You were back in my home town!  Where were you at over there?

7 hours ago, skydawg said:

The pin is tapered,no notch.So,given all the conflicting posts,I`m not going to pursue this,I`ll keep everything greased and drive it.Spent $300 on parts I was told were correct,and they`re not.Lack of parts and info will be the reason fewer of these great beasts will be on the road every year.

I definitely think someone has mismatched parts in that kit.  I mean, these are NOT that uncommon.  Bunches of them were done by the guys on here.

And, I don't think it is a matter of a wrong kit number.  The bushings do not appear to fit the pins!  That screams mismatch to me.  Refer to the picture I posted of the kit I had for mine.  Everything stacked up fine on the bench.  And, I bet that kit SHOULD have had the seals with it too.

I don't know if what you got was a real Mack kit or something somebody cobbled together and put a Mack part number on.  All I do know is that this is a pisser.  Might want to see if the eBay seller will accept a return.

There's a "correct" kit out there somewhere.

If I was close to you, and had access to a machine shop, I could MAKE you a set of bushings to fit that pin and axle.

And, no.  This type of pin did not have a locking flat on them.  That is common on straight pins.  These are merely held in place by the locking effect of the taper.  Easy out.  Easy in.  I just hate that the pieces you got do not match up.  Again...a real pisser.

Here's a little more.  Has a green one part-way down.

I have nothing to help you.  But, look at the one in this older thread.

Something is definitely not right here.  Those types of bushings are typically not reamed.  They usually have a thin layer of material on the inside that provides the wear surface.  Reaming will remove that, and it will be steel-on-steel.

I'm at a bit of a loss here.  Something is definitely not adding up.

Maybe Freightrain can offer some advice.  I know he has done a B model set.

I ordered an aftermarket on for my '70.  Fit fine.  Can't remember who I got it from.  One of the common parts houses though.  PAI maybe?  Maybe though FindItParts?

Any damage to the fuel tank where the supply line comes out?  Can you pump the primer and hear fuel going back into the tank?

9 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

As far as reaming newer style bushings. I never had too. Only had to de- burr the leading edge after installing it. And as far as splits,  what I've seen is an interlocked seamlike puzzle pieces.  Those were the ones with the yellow nylon coating inside.  I don't know why there aren't new seals.  If you can get the old ones out, you can take them to ''allied bearing'' to get them matched up.  

Exactly what I have seen.  Not sure why the ones he has won't slip onto the pins.  Maybe out-of-round while in the free state?

Is it possible they sent him mismatched parts?  Wish we were all in one place so we could talk about it!

23 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

possibly like so many products todays world  there are cut backs on the seal kits also.to save money on production , manufactures are saying use silicone sealant ?? nothing surprises me any more with the production cuts on quality for C E O bonus checks.  old seals are usable I'd reinstall; better then nothing. a spindle grease seal not total technical as an engine oil seal. or it's a case of ="oh, you want seals tooo, those are extra"!!  for bushing install I don't know of a shoulder it's a matter of "eye-ball" the bushing to the spindle making sure finished install the holes will line up. the trials and errors of being a mechanic. at least with this project if the holes don't line up :(but we know they will) last resort remove zerk fitting and carefully drill through threads with a smaller drill into bushing then remove internal burrs. you have the technology so you won't be doing that set. and we are all going to be waiting for spindle picture showing the correctly installed bushing .😄

What do you think about the bushings apparently NOT slipping onto the pins?  I've never seen a reamed split bushing.

9 hours ago, 1961H67 said:

Hopefully Lincolnton.

September 16th!

"If the only thing upstanding in your family is a CB antenna..."

10 hours ago, skydawg said:

I didn`t gat any grease seals in the kit.I don`t see any in the Figure 9-9 pic that DCW posted.Can I re-use the old ones if I have them? If I spread the bushing seams by hand,they fit over the pins,but I`d think they would need reaming when installed in the knuckle,since they`re a no go over the pins when the seam is tight.

That's really odd.  Never seen a split bushing that needed to be reamed.  JoJo, Mecho?  Sound odd to you?

Amen, JoJo!  Easier than most pickup trucks!

I'll bet those can just be pressed in place.  Should have some clearance if placed on the pins on the bench.

Just be sure to line up the holes with the grease supply ports so you can grease them.

I think you have the "no ream" types there, from the pictures and your description.

Had that happen to an ammeter on a school activity bus I was driving one time.  Unhooked the battery to keep it from going up in flames.  Straight-wired it to get it back to school.  Last time I saw it, it was an the hook, headed for the repair garage.  Guess they didn't know how to straight-wire it!

11 minutes ago, High Binder said:

I always heard the two happiest days in a boat owner's life is the day he bought the boat and the day he sold the boat.

Right?

Boat: (noun) A hole in the water where you throw money.

9 hours ago, skydawg said:

Great pics,DCW,thankyou.I believe my truck has the Type 3,Figure9-9 setup.So the taper of the pin in the axle bears the weight,and the adjusting nut on the bottom moves the knuckle up or down slightly to maintain clearance w/ the axle? 

Exactly.

Here are pictures of “Type 3” knuckles, which I THINK is correct for a FA505. One has a needle bearing and the other doesn’t.  I am also attaching a picture of a “Type 2”, which uses a different thrust bearing setup. 
I hope this helps. 
 

You know, I may have a good picture of that in my service manual.  If I can remember to do it, I will look at it tonight.  Seems like it had good instructions, too.

Here is a great picture of how the components stack up.  I hope this will help explain how the tapered pins work.  Like the man said above, the tapered part seats in the axle beam.  The bearings/bushings go into the knuckle.  And the thrust bearing is adjusted into place with the big nut on the bottom.